Shooting in Cold Weather

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-terry

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I was out shooting my P220 in about 35 degrees. I know, I'm nuts. I was having lots of trouble. Rounds (5.2 w231) wouldn't cycle the action, occasionally firing pin wouldn't reset...just all around yucky. Magazine feed sluggish.

What do you guize do to prepare your gun for cold weather shooting?

-terry

Freezing in the PNW
 
1. 35 F is not cold weather shooting.
2. The gun trouble you had is the result of something else, but not the temperature.
 
sounds like a dirty weapon or the pistol is new and the packing grease wasn't cleaned out before you went out. Not saying that you keep dirty weapons, but those are the most obvious reasons I can think of.
 
I must concur. Especially for THAT pistol, temp is no reason to jam.

I'll put it this way. In the army, when we qualify in the cold, all we do to prepare is put on jackets and gloves, and ask if anyone has any prior cold-weather injuries. For extreme arctic operations, you have the armorer remove the bottom piece of the trigger guard on the M-16.
 
Make sure your handgun is clean and lubricated with a light gun oil like Hoppe's #9. If you are using grease ...Quit!!

I would recommend that you completely disassemble, inspect your firearm and give it a real good cleaning and start over with a good quality GUN OIL. Do not use anything that doubles for automotive products...Then follow the above poster's suggestions...:D
 
+1
That's just a nice fall day.

Cold weather shooting is just starting when your nose hairs get frost on them when you breath!

What weight & type bullet with 5.2 grains WW231?

5.2 is barely a starting load with most bullet weights in .45 ACP.

Have you cleaned the gun recently?
What are you using for lubricant?
How many rounds on the recoil springs?

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rcmodel
 
That's just a nice fall day.
In Texas, that a freakin' Ice Age. :cool:
Check your lube, that sounds like the source of the problem. Lubrication qualities can suffer in cold weather for some products... certain greases, probably certain oils. I think Breakfree CLP is supposed to run fine in temps like that - maybe try it for next time. Or any of a number of other products.

The Germans were apparently running into problems with their guns during their march across Russia, and found that Sunflower Oil worked better in cold weather than whatever lube they'd been using.
 
I'd get the firing pin out, clean it and leave it dry. Maybe let some CLP "go dry" on it before reinstall (which would take awhile.)

1. 35 F is not cold weather shooting.

Agreed, I was out shooting my P220 at about 5 F a few days ago. As long as the wind isn't blowing I'll shoot down to about -20 F.

In winter I use Outers Gun Oil (which is really light) on autopistol parts, and it seems to lube well at very low temps. In winter I only use grease on high friction points like the hammer interface or the cam pin on the AR.
 
5.2 is barely a starting load with most bullet weights in .45 ACP.
Actually that is with 230 gr. a good load.
According to the Winchester site 5.4 is max with 230.
I use actually the same with 230 gr. FMJ.

Also, to lube the gun I use regular engine oil >> Syntec from Castrol.
 
Dig through a few reloading manuals and you will find that is a very light load with 185's and 200's. That is why I ask what bullet weight he was using.

If a SIG 220 won't cycle the slide far enough to pick up the next round and cock the hammer, I'd have to guess it's a light load, or a very dry/dirty gun causing it, not above freezing weather!

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rcmodel
 
I was out shooting my P220 in about 35 degrees. I know, I'm nuts.

Above zero? No, you're not even close to nuts. I've shot at NEGATIVE 35f. I ride my bicycle 15 miles each way to the rifle range in the middle of Alaska's winter and shoot in much lower temps.

You should NOT repeat NOT be experiencing mechanical problems with any firearm at temps as moderate as 35 f. I'd suggest the following:

--Avoid any grease or lubes other than a bare minimum IF your arms manual suggests this minimum. Even a little grease can cause semiautos to get sluggish and gritty. Less is more. For most firearms you don't need any grease and a few drops of CLP rubbed around are enough.

--In true cold temps, below freezing, if it's cold keep it cold. One problem is bringing freezing iron inside where it sucks up all the moisture, then taking it back out where the drops of water freeze solid.

--Simple mechanisms work better than complex. SAR-3's, blowback pistols, bolt action rifles, etc. do better than more complex firearms. Though no well made firearm should have any serious problems above ten below.
 
the last time that i went to the range at f. riley before i pcs'ed was -1, i had no ill effects with my firearms or ammo or anything my xd's kept chuggin along. i know that the issues that you encountered couldn't be from that temp. i would say that the reloads themselves are the culprete.
 
Above zero? No, you're not even close to nuts. I've shot at NEGATIVE 35f. I ride my bicycle 15 miles each way to the rifle range in the middle of Alaska's winter and shoot in much lower temps.

In JCS Exercise Brim Frost '83, we were firing M-16's and M-60's with blanks at 70 below. At those temps, a very light coat of 3-in-1 Oil seemed to work best. Just remember not to touch any metal without a glove on your hand, unless you just don't want that particular patch of skin anymore. ;)
 
buddy of mine stationed in South Korea told of stories where they had to sleep with their m16s on top of the radiators because the temps got so cold that the barrel steel would freeze and become brittle, i very much doubt that would occur at temps above -30
 
that the barrel steel would freeze and become brittle

While I think that this is one of these "war stories", when I was in the German Army with the Leo II tanks, we would break off the bolts which hold the front splesh gards over the traks.
The maintnace plan required to check on those every month no matter if it was 10F, so Cap. made us do it until half of them broke off!
 
Another vote for "gun lubrication/grime" problem. At 35-F, everything should be ticking A OKay. I'd guess you were "minimal" in load and lube parameters beforehand, and the slight cold may have pointed out the problem.

I say this because I had worked up a 9mm load a few years ago that just barely functioned above 25-degrees or so. Toss the pistol and ammo in the trunk, drive around, let it get good and cold-soaked at 10-degrees, and I had all kinds of problems. Boosted the load to a more robust power level and all of my issues went away.

And seriously, I've often wondered when I read the gunwriters in California; "this pistol/rifle/whatever has been designed with an oversized trigger guard to facilitate shooting with gloves, though we doubt the advisability of such an endeavour." Must be nice to wake up and think 40 is COLD out, in December. ;)
 
"...to lube the gun I use regular engine oil..." Quit doing that. Motor oil isn't made for firearms. It's got additives that don't do good things for firearms.
Cold weather shooting means a change of lube(there are cold weather greases that don't get hard in the cold) or no lube at all in extreme cold. 35 F isn't cold.
 
It was well below freezing this AM when I was shooting{the boonies NE WA} and its just getting cold out there. Just having the first real snow.

Here as a couple could weather weapon keep tips.

Clean and wipeout any grease and LIGHTLY oil it, as both can freeze and turn to a solid goo type crud that WILL impede the function of your auto loader.

If you get lots of ice/snow/water in the action wipe it out ASAP.
 
Thanks for all the replies, guize. I'll tear it down, make sure it's clean and lightly lubed with gun oil, then try with factory ammo. I'll let you know how it turns out.

-terry

PS: bullets were Montana 185 gr TMJHP's.
 
like others have said, the weather just isn't cold enough to be the sole cause of your problems. check your powder amount, it may not be enough. loads of goop/oil/grease will thicken and may cause you problems.
 
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