Hiaboo
Member
Problems with doing this? I can imagine it affecting the barrel or soemthing especially fi there's been leading but.? I am not really clear on that.. HOpe someone will clear it up for me. Thanks.
Shooting Jacketed after Cast?
- Thread starter Hiaboo
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saltydog452
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I used to do it kinda regular. That does not mean that it was a brilliant decision.
I had two Colts, a Python and a SAA NF. Unknown to me, the bores were Colt tight.
The shooting mags, Keith, Skelton, Jordan, Grinnell, etc., wrote about 1500 fps speed with 158 grain SWCs in 357 flavor.
Beleiving the printed word of these gents to be the equivelent of tablets from the Mount, my regular reloads were pretty much a hatfull of 2400 over a CCI Magnum priner, toped off with a lead 158 SWC.
Cleaning the Colts was a chore and the Lewis Lead Remover was a handy gadget. The smell of Hoppes # 9 lingers, especially when it is on the carpet. That does not do a great deal to improve your domestic tranquility.
Speers half jacket, still over a bunch of 2400, was used to clean the bore of these Colts.
Later in life, I made the aquaintence of a Quality Control Inspector who had the tools and ability to accurately measure the ID on the barrels on the Colts.
The SAA NF was .3555. The Python was .356. Maybe it was the other way around, but, the lead 158 SWCs through each made a mess inside the barrels that was easily cleaned with jacked bullets.
salty
I had two Colts, a Python and a SAA NF. Unknown to me, the bores were Colt tight.
The shooting mags, Keith, Skelton, Jordan, Grinnell, etc., wrote about 1500 fps speed with 158 grain SWCs in 357 flavor.
Beleiving the printed word of these gents to be the equivelent of tablets from the Mount, my regular reloads were pretty much a hatfull of 2400 over a CCI Magnum priner, toped off with a lead 158 SWC.
Cleaning the Colts was a chore and the Lewis Lead Remover was a handy gadget. The smell of Hoppes # 9 lingers, especially when it is on the carpet. That does not do a great deal to improve your domestic tranquility.
Speers half jacket, still over a bunch of 2400, was used to clean the bore of these Colts.
Later in life, I made the aquaintence of a Quality Control Inspector who had the tools and ability to accurately measure the ID on the barrels on the Colts.
The SAA NF was .3555. The Python was .356. Maybe it was the other way around, but, the lead 158 SWCs through each made a mess inside the barrels that was easily cleaned with jacked bullets.
salty
35 Whelen
Member
I've done it many times with a 38, 357, 45 Colt and 45ACP with absolutely no harmful effects.
35W
35W
jcwit
member
Short question. Why is it so important to clean all the grease out of a barrel before shooting but people recommend shooting a jacketed bullet to take the lead out. Just wondering.
wankerjake
Member
I was told by a law enforcement officer not to shoot jacketed bullets after lead bullets. If there is a buildup of lead in the barrel, the hard copper jacketed bullet can potentially make the barrel expand as it passes over the lead buildup, instead of just pushing the lead out of the barrel. He made it sound like there usually has to be a significant amount of buildup for this to happen, but I guess I don't need to find out that badly so I clean my barrels between lead and jacketed.
-Jake
-Jake
Shoney
Member
I am aquainted with an engineer from one of the international bullet manufacturers. He claimed that shooting jacketed after lead does clean a little lead out, but moreover. they iron the lead flat in the barrel so it looks nice, but isn't clean. The ironed on lead is harder to remove, and can produce damage to the barrel if it s not cleaned before shooting lots of jacketed.
The Bushmaster
Member
Ever sense I started owning and shooting firearms I was told to never shoot a jacketed bullet after shooting lead bullets unless you cleaned the firearm first insuring that all the lead was removed. As was stated before. It flattens the lead out rather then removing it and makes it harder to clean out and can cause damage to the barrel over time...
Hiaboo
Member
The reason why I'm asking is because i started shooting lead out of my 30-30 and I still have some jacketed rounds left and would like to use those jacketed rounds up but..? I geuss I'll give the barrel a scrub just in case.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I has long been common practice with handguns to shoot a few jacketed loads following a lead shooting session. We did it in the Army AMU unit I gunsmithed for with 1911 Match guns, and K-38 Target revolvers all the time.
Air-gaging the barrels indicated no change in them until they became worn out from thousands of rounds.
IMHO: Unless the barrel is severely leaded, it will not harm a barrel.
And I doubt it would, even then.
As for ironing the lead into the barrel and making cleanup more difficult?
I don't believe that either.
A good cleaning with Hoppies #9 until clean, followed by JB Bore Paste will prove it.
There is nothing there for the JB to remove!
The only caveat I have is, there is some reason to believe it could contribute to the forcing cone cracking problems with S&W K-frame .357's.
A heavy lead build-up in the forcing cone puts extra stress on it when jacketed Magnum loads are fired through it.
As for high-power rifles?
If there is visible leading, I would clean it first before firing full power jacketed loads.
rcmodel
Air-gaging the barrels indicated no change in them until they became worn out from thousands of rounds.
IMHO: Unless the barrel is severely leaded, it will not harm a barrel.
And I doubt it would, even then.
As for ironing the lead into the barrel and making cleanup more difficult?
I don't believe that either.
A good cleaning with Hoppies #9 until clean, followed by JB Bore Paste will prove it.
There is nothing there for the JB to remove!
The only caveat I have is, there is some reason to believe it could contribute to the forcing cone cracking problems with S&W K-frame .357's.
A heavy lead build-up in the forcing cone puts extra stress on it when jacketed Magnum loads are fired through it.
As for high-power rifles?
If there is visible leading, I would clean it first before firing full power jacketed loads.
rcmodel
Sunray
Member
"...give the barrel a scrub just in case..." A 'just in case' cleaning has never caused anybody any grief.
scrat
Member
No problems. in fact i found just the opposite. First thing its important to shoot cast bullets correctly. Meaning shoot the correct sized bullet to match the barrel. This may involve slugging the barrel. Then having the proper lube. As far a lube i have tried so many different types of lube to where i have gone full circle. Currently the only lube i use is lee liquid alox. Which seems to work the best. Now with this i have shot a lot of cast bullets. Then i have also shot jacketed ammo through the same gun. What i have found when returning home is a fairly clean barrel. No signs of lead fouling or copper fouling. Just the normal amount of dirt that would have to be cleaned. So with what i am doing im happy. Accuracy is there and cleaning is marginal
easyrider604
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Two questions:
1. How many rounds of jacketed bullets are needed to clean a slightly leaded barrel?
2. Will plated bullets clean barrels as effectively as jacketed?
1. How many rounds of jacketed bullets are needed to clean a slightly leaded barrel?
2. Will plated bullets clean barrels as effectively as jacketed?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I usually shoot at least a cylinder or mag full.
So, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 13.
I would think plated would work as well but haven't tried it.
If they are not leaving lead behind themselves, they should work just as well anyway.
rcmodel
So, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 13.
I would think plated would work as well but haven't tried it.
If they are not leaving lead behind themselves, they should work just as well anyway.
rcmodel
easyrider604
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rcmodel,
thanks for quick reply. because i'm really cheap, will one or two jhp rounds clean?
thanks for quick reply. because i'm really cheap, will one or two jhp rounds clean?
scrat
Member
depends on the cast bullet. if your using the correct size cast bullet with a lube that properly matches the powder and load your using then yes. but if your using a cheap load with a lot of powder the gases around the bullet then no.
easyrider604
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Scrat, I size my .357 bullets to .357, then TL with alox. Loaded on top of 4.3 grn 700X or Titegroup. Use this on all my 357 magnum revolvers. I haven't slugged any of them. I get some leading in the first inch of rifling after about 200 rds, hardly any in the barrel throat.
Guess I'll just have to shoot lead and see how many JHPs it'll take to remove leading. Tnx.
Guess I'll just have to shoot lead and see how many JHPs it'll take to remove leading. Tnx.
scrat
Member
well that may be your problem a .357 should be sized to .358 not .357 As far as the alox. Works good for me.
scrat
Member
Taken from the reloading pages of mdsmith
check here
http://www.dixieslugs.com/357mag.htm
here
http://www.reloadammo.com/357loads.htm
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
+1
.357" lead bullets need to be sized .358" or you are probably going to get leading no matter what you do.
For even better accuracy results, slug your cylinder throats and size to match them.
Even if they slug .359" or so, you will get better results if you size .359", regardless of the bore size.
rcmodel
.357" lead bullets need to be sized .358" or you are probably going to get leading no matter what you do.
For even better accuracy results, slug your cylinder throats and size to match them.
Even if they slug .359" or so, you will get better results if you size .359", regardless of the bore size.
rcmodel
easyrider604
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Scrat and RC, Tnx. Will order .358 sizing die.
scrat
Member
easy rider. Your accuracy in shooting is going to improve so much. Less blow by on the bullets resulting in lower or even no leading. Your truely going to see an improvement. Well worth it.
easyrider604
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Ok, here's my take on firing jacketed/plated bullets after lead.
All I can say is, it worked for me today.
The gun: S&W 6" 686
Number of lead bullets fired: roughly 200 .38 spl reloads (Lee TL 158 grn cast with WW over 3.7 to 4.3 grain 700X), and approximately 100 .357 (same bullet over 10.0 grains Blue Dot)
Moderate leading within first inch of the barrel, as well as some slight streaks almost the full 6" length, that couldn't be scrubbed out with a common bronze brush.
Number of plated bullets: 6 (Rainier 125 grain PHP over 5.1 grain Titegroup)
Result: Visual inspection revealed that the barrel was CLEAN. I have not run a clean patch through it yet but my barrel has never looked cleaner.
Next step is to determine how many Plated or Jacketed rounds are really needed to scrub leading. So next time, I'll fire one PHP at a time and check to see how well its done its job. A couple of PHPs might be all that's required.
All I can say is, it worked for me today.
The gun: S&W 6" 686
Number of lead bullets fired: roughly 200 .38 spl reloads (Lee TL 158 grn cast with WW over 3.7 to 4.3 grain 700X), and approximately 100 .357 (same bullet over 10.0 grains Blue Dot)
Moderate leading within first inch of the barrel, as well as some slight streaks almost the full 6" length, that couldn't be scrubbed out with a common bronze brush.
Number of plated bullets: 6 (Rainier 125 grain PHP over 5.1 grain Titegroup)
Result: Visual inspection revealed that the barrel was CLEAN. I have not run a clean patch through it yet but my barrel has never looked cleaner.
Next step is to determine how many Plated or Jacketed rounds are really needed to scrub leading. So next time, I'll fire one PHP at a time and check to see how well its done its job. A couple of PHPs might be all that's required.
Griz44
Member
I will jump in with the crowd that says to size the bullet properly. I cast my own for 45 acp and use Lee Liquid Alox and Rooster both. The Lee works the best. Even after a 500 round session, there is not enough leading in the barrel so see unless you really get up close. Properly sized and lubed, cast to the correct hardness and not driven to escape velocity will result in rounds that do not lead the barrel in the first place. Please let us know how it all comes out!
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