shooting steel targets

[x_wrench]

several years ago, i ended up with a block of mild steel, 7" tall x 12" long x 2" thick. since i really had no use for it, i decided i would shoot it. obviously, noting i own did much damage to it, but its weight made it NO fun to deploy. so a couple of days ago, i thought, you know what, i should treat myself to some real steel targets, and see if i actually enjoy shooting them. since i am a "aim small, miss small" kind of guy, i ordered up 3) 1/2" thick x 3" ar 500 steel targets. yesterday, i recieved them. and realized i had not given any thought to chain, or a shooting stand onto which to hang them. i will be shooting them with everything i have, which includes 300 win mag and 45-70. i know that the 300 wm will have t be shot at 100+ yards, and or downloaded, or shot with cast bullets. the 45-70 is mostly shot with flat nose cast bullets, so i am not terribly concerned about it. other than what these two will to as force transmitted into the shooting stand. how heavy do i need to make the stand? also, if i enjoy this, i will likely buy a few additional (larger) targets, so i want to make the stand robust enough to hang a couple of 6 and/or 8" plates as well. i have seen some place talk about 1" black pipe/fittings. is that going to be strong enough? and how heavy do i need for chain. these targets have one large hole in them (with what i would call a "tab). i think that 1/2" carriage bolt, several washers will give the plates the downward angle i am looking for. what else am i overlooking? as always, thanks for the help!

 

[Zak Smith]

Cut a hole at least 3/4" in from one side or order depending on desired orientation (water jet is best). Use an Grade 8 bolt with the nut-side on the back. Get a 3" wide piece of conveyor belt strap, drill a hole at least 1.5" from its end and put it behind the plate; use large washer and put the nut on the back. Do not tighten it down tightly, just enough so there isn't excessive space between the strap and the plate (ie, let it rotate a bit). Make an A-frame stand. Fold the other end of the conveyor belt strap back on itself and bolt it together, so there's about a 3-4" opening. Put it through the top of your A-frame stand.

We've tried every possible way over the last 20 years and this is best. The strapping lasts forever.

 

[edwardware]

. . .3" wide piece of conveyor belt strap,

+1 on the strap. My second miss on a brand new 300yd plate with an Garand cut the $20 3/8 alloy chain clean in two. The strap, or aged-out firehose, survives much longer.

 

[Riomouse911]

Our local LE range uses 30” wide used conveyor belt donated by local gravel pits as target backstops. They take thousands of rounds before they’re shot out and replaced. The stuff is tough as nails for steel hangers.

Stay safe.

 

[hc18flyer]

I tried the belting, didn't get the 'ring'I wanted. Now we use a 3/8" x 2" angle iron to deflect the bullet away from the chain. I usually weld the angle to a top link, so the target can swing, with the chain behind the angle. hc18flyer

 

[Rembrandt]

Baler belting works surprisingly well. Doesn't give the "clang" sound, more of a deadened solid hit. If bullets go through the belting it seals/heals itself nicely. Runs about $2-to-$3 a foot at most farm supply stores.

 

[.38 Special]

Home Depot version.



You'll have ignore the bear. My son drew it with chalk, and when I asked why the bear was sad, the boy looked at me like I was slow and said "Coz he's gonna get shot". So of course I only shoot the other side.

At any rate, it's just a few dollars of galvanized pipe and screw-in fittings. I've discovered that if the base legs are at least half as long as the target is high, any round powerful enough to knock it over is also powerful enough to poke a hole right through the steel. The exception is gigantic lead bullets from muzzleloaders, and if you have that sort of problem then you are a fortunate man indeed!