Shortening oversize Colt mainspring

[goldpelican]

I'm restoring a Palmetto Hartford 1849 Pocket pistol that has had the crap dry fired out of it by a previous owner, which is a shame, because I don't think it's ever actually been loaded and fired. I've replaced the trigger spring, the hand is on the verge of needing replacing, and the mainspring was snapped in two inside the grips. There's some hammer damage to the cylinder where it's been dry fired slightly out of alignment, but it's just cosmetic. Otherwise, a beauty

The mainspring I sourced from Dixie is about half an inch too long (they were out of the specific spring for an 1849 Pocket, and supplied one that was a possible fit). The dimensions are all good except for the length. Is it possible to grind the spring shorter? I'm assuming it would have to be done slowly to avoid overheating the spring.

Dixie said they don't carry nipples for this model - does anyone know what thread they would be? Five shot 31 caliber.

 

[Smokin'Joe]

I recently restored a Palmetto 1862 Pocket Navy which is virtually the same gun as what you have. Take a look http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=776634

In answer to your question, yes you can shorten mainsprings. I use a cutoff wheel on a Dremel tool and go slowly. After the length is correct smooth out the rough surfaces with a stone or a file.

As for the nipples try to restore the old ones. Filing off the rough spots often will make them usable again.

I took my 1862 Navy to the range just yesterday. It's one of the best shooting black powder revolvers I have ever shot, Have fun with yours and show us some photos.

 

[Jim K]

Since mainsprings usually thicken from top to bottom, you might also have to thin the spring down or the cocking effort may be too great. Determine that when you get it to fit.

Jim

 

[4v50 Gary]

You can cut it to length (generally from the bottom if it has a cut out hook on top). If you take it to a belt sander, just be sure to have a can of water to dip it in. You don't want to change the temper.

 

[Fingers McGee]

Contact VTI and give them the dimensions of the broken spring. They should be able to match it up withy a Uberti/Pietta/or ASM spring in stock.

 

[44 Dave]

The Colt single actions I have use the roller on the hammer. On my clones some of them the main spring clears the frame when the screw is loosened. I have trimmed 2 of them so they do this also, I only grind off just enough so they aren't too short.
If the correct spring is unavailable go ahead and cut and grind, small cut off wheel will be helpful. The spring may be too strong and need to be thinned. Just go slow and don't get it hot.

 

[goldpelican]

I'll try the dremel with cutoff wheel - have just had to head overseas for a few weeks for work, so I'll try it when I get home and post the result. Looks like I should be able to just take some length off the narrow end - otherwise I would be for drilling a new screw hole which would be a whole new world of annoyance on spring steel without access to a decent bench drill.

 

[goldpelican]

Cutoff tool on the Dremel worked a treat - just needed the speed setting on 2 and it cut through quite cleanly. Bit of cleanup to get rid of burrs and sharp edges, and it fit great. Will post pics later.

 

[goldpelican]

Some pics as promised.

First one shows the amount I had to trim the main spring I had sourced. The next two are of the gun fully assembled and functioning, and the last pic is with it's current stablemate of an 1851 "Fantasy" Brass Army 44 that was made in 1978 (AD marks).

Was a bit disappointed to find that my Pocket was a 2001 build (BP) - I'm now more convinced than ever that it used to belong to someone who just played with it and never fired it (it's going to be on active shooter duty now that I own it!). The nipples show a lot of dry firing wear, but the rifling is immaculate (no I didn't bugger the screws, it came like it). All up though it's a working BP revolver that I'm only into for $114 including parts, so I'm pretty happy with it for the price!

The *only* thing I couldn't fix on it was the roller on the hammer being seized in place - I'm tempted to punch out the pin and see if I can free it up, but with some gun butter on the top of the main spring it has a nice smooth cocking action, so I'm not too worried about the seized roller.

 

[Smokin'Joe]

Good work, Mr. Pelican. I would try some thin oil on the hammer roller. Let it soak in and try to rotate the roller with a pair of pliers. This may take some time. The last one I restored required several days of soaking and rotating. But it finally broke free and worked well.

 

[44 Dave]

With the hammer out you can use a little heat and tap with a soft hammer and wiggle with pliers, I have loosened them.

 

[goldpelican]

I didn't mention that I had hit it with the ultrasonic cleaner, some CLP for a couple of days and then pliers to give it a wriggle - might need to try some Kroil on it later for a longer time. Not sure how "thin" CLP is to penetrate, it's not really advertised as a penetrating oil.

 

[Smokin'Joe]

I read somewhere that the earliest pocket revolvers didn't even have a roller on the hammer. So you're good to go with lube between the hammer and spring.

 

[44 Dave]

Places like the roller and where the hand spring is swedged in to the hand are places that are very hard to dry completely after you guys "bathe" your bp guns. I never use water near the action parts, only bp solvent and oil.

 

[Skinny 1950]

I have often wondered what it is like loading a '49 with the short lever on the 4 inch barrel?
Up here in Canada the repro '49's with 4 inch barrels are PROHIBITED ie: I can't have one, I do have a 5 incher which is only "Restricted" ie: can only be shot at an approved range.
I have an antique one with a 4 inch barrel that some bonehead decided to Gold plate and all the gold is gone so it is in the white.

 

[Jim K]

It is pretty common on the repros to find that the hammer roller won't roll. It is easy to fix, but apparently they just don't care much about details.

Hi, Skinny,

The 4" barrel lever is not bad unless the balls are oversize, but shorter ones are nearly impossible and most shooters use an extension, usually a short piece of PVC water pipe.

I knew about the Canadian laws on barrel length, but I had no idea they applied to percussion revolvers. I guess that really stops a lot of crimes.

Jim