madcratebuilder
Member
I'm surprised no one has recommended the Ruger plunger mod. It well eliminate the hand spring issues for ever. Makes the action feel smoother.
Colt Type Revolver Disassembly
- Thread starter mec
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While the Ruger plunger system is an excellent solution, most gun owners don't have the necessary equipment (drill press or milling machine and a drill fixture) to make the modification. Many local gunsmiths may not know what you're talking about either.
Exactly. If the gentleman doesn't have the experience to diagnose a broken hand spring it's unlikely he possesses the experience to perform a major design modification.
Is the gun safe to fire? Yes, IF... the cylinder is in battery (that is, the chamber is lined up exactly with the barrel bore AND the bolt is securely holding the cylinder in that position so that it can't rotate in either direction.
Is the gun safe to fire? Yes, IF... the cylinder is in battery (that is, the chamber is lined up exactly with the barrel bore AND the bolt is securely holding the cylinder in that position so that it can't rotate in either direction.
Ok I dont know the names of all the parts(this is my first black powder and non longarm weapon). Ill post a pic if you guys can tell me what to look at. I currently have the grips off becuase Im staining them.(again it was a kit not an acutal 1851.) I have a feeling i know what it is but I dont really know how to adjust it. I think its that bar or spring that sits under the cylander. I dunno if theres a way I can raise it up or not.
If you don't mind I'd like to move this discussion to a new thread. This thread is a resource to describe assembly and disassembly and should not be extended by side discussions to troubleshoot individual problems if possible. I'll start a new thread with your question and see if I can help that way.
Also, you should have read each of the previous posts in this thread. Post #28 contains a picture of all the parts with their names, so please refer to that when discussing the parts.
Also, you should have read each of the previous posts in this thread. Post #28 contains a picture of all the parts with their names, so please refer to that when discussing the parts.
SC_Slowhand
Member
Great thread on disassembly. The Uberti Owners Manual gets no where near all this detail. "Completely disassemble the weapon." hardly hacks it.
I bought David R, Chicone's book, "Antique Firearms Assembly/ Disassembly", great information and illustrations on taking it apart. Reassembly? "Reassemble the revolver in reverse order of above". Notice a trend?
Anyway you guys who have contributed to this thread saved me a lot of aggravation..... Thanks.
My own contribution is a photo of the position of the Trigger and the Bolt which might save someone else some aggravation.
When we were kids most of us were quite good at taking things apart. It was the putting back togeather part that gave us and the parents a rough time.
I did manage to get the Uberti 1851 Colt Navy back togeather and it does work. Above her is a Uberti 1871 Richards-Mason Conversion of a 1851 Colt Navy Revolver, she does .38 Spec. Taking her apart and doing the reassembly is what lead me to get a Black Powder Version. She was a bit less trouble.
Anyway thanks again for your assistance. I've looking forward to taking this puppy out to the range and giving her a work out.
I bought David R, Chicone's book, "Antique Firearms Assembly/ Disassembly", great information and illustrations on taking it apart. Reassembly? "Reassemble the revolver in reverse order of above". Notice a trend?
Anyway you guys who have contributed to this thread saved me a lot of aggravation..... Thanks.
My own contribution is a photo of the position of the Trigger and the Bolt which might save someone else some aggravation.
When we were kids most of us were quite good at taking things apart. It was the putting back togeather part that gave us and the parents a rough time.
I did manage to get the Uberti 1851 Colt Navy back togeather and it does work. Above her is a Uberti 1871 Richards-Mason Conversion of a 1851 Colt Navy Revolver, she does .38 Spec. Taking her apart and doing the reassembly is what lead me to get a Black Powder Version. She was a bit less trouble.
Anyway thanks again for your assistance. I've looking forward to taking this puppy out to the range and giving her a work out.
SC_Slowhand
Member
Trigger Bolt Spring
The correct position of the Trigger Bolt Spring Lets call it an after thought.
The correct position of the Trigger Bolt Spring
Lets call it an after thought.
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2002
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- 22,494
Notes on fitting Colt parts
In fitting new parts, fit the bolt first.
Note: The bolt spring that interacts with the hammer is sometimes relieved (filed so it is slightly trapezoid instead of rectangular) and if the bottom (the notch between the two legs) is square, then it could be slightly rounded with a needle file as this is a stress point.
The bolt head must fit each notch of the cylinder. If it must be narrowed, file it on the left and non-binding side. This may be done out of the frame. Next, check to make sure that the bolt head fits through its cylinder window (the opening in the frame that the bolt pops up and down out of). The bolt tail that interacts with the hammer must be nice and smooth and should correspond with the bevel of the hammer. As to the height to bolt must reach up, it should go as high as possible without bottoming out. That is, the bolt must be stopped by the frame and not the cylinder notch (this would create upward pressure against the cylinder).
In fitting the bolt to the hammer, there should be a .0001 to .0002" wink before the bolt contacts the hammer. That clearance determines the head start before the hammer contacts the bolt. Too much head start means the hand will try to rotate the cylinder before the bolt disengages the cylinder notch.
There is an arch in the bolt and this determines how long the bolt stays down. The longer it is, the longer it stays down. The shorter, the faster the bolt falls off the hammer.
Turning to the hand. Like the Python, the top of the hand begins the rotation and the second step of the hand completes it. The top of the hand should be as long as possible, but should not be so long as to begin the rotation before the bolt disengages the cylinder notch. The bolt should pop up before the second step of the hand completes the cylinder's rotation. The cylinder itself should be fully rotated to the next chamber before the second step finishes.
Trigger. The length of the trigger affects the timing of each notch. The trigger should push the hammer back slightly before the hammer falls off the sear. This makes for a neater trigger pull and is safe and secure. Trigger pull should be from four to 4 1/2 lbs. How far back into the hammer the trigger goes determines creep. Do not remedy it by reducing the hammer notch as it can cause the hammer notch to slam into the sear as it rotates forward. It is better to peg the trigger (drill the trigger & press in a peg to extend the back of the trigger and then file the peg to fit). If you find that there is not enough engagement between the sear part of the trigger and the hammer at full cock, you may relieve the back of the hammer slightly such that the sear part of the trigger sits further back.
Strongly suggest for anyone who wants to work on SAA or blackpowder Colts & Remingtons to take a NRA summer single action gunsmithing class. They're one week long and you learn a lifetime skill.
In fitting new parts, fit the bolt first.
Note: The bolt spring that interacts with the hammer is sometimes relieved (filed so it is slightly trapezoid instead of rectangular) and if the bottom (the notch between the two legs) is square, then it could be slightly rounded with a needle file as this is a stress point.
The bolt head must fit each notch of the cylinder. If it must be narrowed, file it on the left and non-binding side. This may be done out of the frame. Next, check to make sure that the bolt head fits through its cylinder window (the opening in the frame that the bolt pops up and down out of). The bolt tail that interacts with the hammer must be nice and smooth and should correspond with the bevel of the hammer. As to the height to bolt must reach up, it should go as high as possible without bottoming out. That is, the bolt must be stopped by the frame and not the cylinder notch (this would create upward pressure against the cylinder).
In fitting the bolt to the hammer, there should be a .0001 to .0002" wink before the bolt contacts the hammer. That clearance determines the head start before the hammer contacts the bolt. Too much head start means the hand will try to rotate the cylinder before the bolt disengages the cylinder notch.
There is an arch in the bolt and this determines how long the bolt stays down. The longer it is, the longer it stays down. The shorter, the faster the bolt falls off the hammer.
Turning to the hand. Like the Python, the top of the hand begins the rotation and the second step of the hand completes it. The top of the hand should be as long as possible, but should not be so long as to begin the rotation before the bolt disengages the cylinder notch. The bolt should pop up before the second step of the hand completes the cylinder's rotation. The cylinder itself should be fully rotated to the next chamber before the second step finishes.
Trigger. The length of the trigger affects the timing of each notch. The trigger should push the hammer back slightly before the hammer falls off the sear. This makes for a neater trigger pull and is safe and secure. Trigger pull should be from four to 4 1/2 lbs. How far back into the hammer the trigger goes determines creep. Do not remedy it by reducing the hammer notch as it can cause the hammer notch to slam into the sear as it rotates forward. It is better to peg the trigger (drill the trigger & press in a peg to extend the back of the trigger and then file the peg to fit). If you find that there is not enough engagement between the sear part of the trigger and the hammer at full cock, you may relieve the back of the hammer slightly such that the sear part of the trigger sits further back.
Strongly suggest for anyone who wants to work on SAA or blackpowder Colts & Remingtons to take a NRA summer single action gunsmithing class. They're one week long and you learn a lifetime skill.
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