Shot gun shell reloading......

[cfullgraf]

I also put an 1/8 tsp in a quart (or smaller 2-cup) tupperware container and shake all the wads in it til coated very-finely. *
That completely stopped all tendency to pull those tiny 410 shot-filled wads up w/ the shot tube upon withdrawing.
powdered graphite would also work, but messier on handling components.


* There's usually enough residual mica in the Tupperware to shake two more loads w/o adding add'l.
The mica also collects a fine dusting on the surfaces of the wad guide to coat lightly on any missed wads.
Magic stuff.

It has been a long time since I loaded some .410 shells and I do not remember having trouble with the shot tube withdrawing the wad with the shot. But, using mica is a good thing to remember if I do have trouble the next time I reload .410.

I did find that I could not find a powder bushing that threw the charged I wanted. So, I use a universal charge bar. As delivered, the small cavity relative to the larger gauges needed for a .410 would cause erratic powder charges. I made a spacer to fit in the charge bar to move the cavity to be closer to the center of the drop tube. This helped alot with making the powder charges more uniform.

.410 is the only shot shell I reload with the universal charge bar. Bushings work fine for me for the larger gauges.

Unfortunately, I understand the universal charge bars for the MEC loaders are no longer available.

 

[MEHavey]

do not remember having trouble with the shot tube withdrawing the wad

thinking back, I'm pretty sure I'd changed out to a new bag of shot when it started to happen.
Also pretty sure that shot turned out to be ungraphited.

.

 

[dannyd]

I use a mec 650 and super sizer worked for 11,561 rounds so far.

 

[Remington1911]

Make sure you do your research on hulls. They are not all created equal. Before I started reloading shotgun I had saved a large bag of hulls from the bulk shotgun ammo at Walmart but when I started I reloading those hull weren't listed in the reloading manuals with load data. They ended up in the trash. Turns out they are not recommended for reloading. I ended up buying once fired Winchester AA hulls off the internet and they have been great. There are other premium hulls suitable for reloading I just landed on the AAs. I have not shot and reloaded them enough to notice wear but am always looking for cracks or tears.

There are also different wads that you will use depending on the shot weight. Make sure you are using the proper wad based on the load data.

Thanks for that, I have been saving them....figures.

Had the boy and inlaws out last weekend, future DiL was in Florida. I think I posted up something about an old double barrel that I was having issues with, shot it some that weekend, actually did not work too bad, but found one clay with a tiny bit busted out but lived to touch the ground. Saved every shell we fired.

I do have research to do....thanks again I had no idea.

 

[Remington1911]

I'll add a bit more on safety concerns. As stated, not every hull or wad is the same. You really need to pick a hull and wad then stick to the published data for that hull/wad combination only. You can't safely use load data for a difference hull and/wad than what you have on hand.

Example: if you are using Winchester hulls and Winchester wads, then you need to stick with data for that hull and wad combo. Or say you are using Federal hulls or Remington hulls, then you need to stick with the data for those hulls and also for the type/brand of wads you are using.

Yes thanks for this as well.....at the start of this I figured a hull was like brass....if the brass is healthy then nothing else matters, I had no idea that a federal hull was different from a remington from a winchester.

 

[FROGO207]

I took one of each type hull and cut them in half lengthwise. That will show you what the construction of each is and what is compatable.

 

[Seedy Character]

If you see a white plastic, cork, or fiber base wad; do not reload them.

The hull should be one piece.

 

[entropy]

I'll add a bit more on safety concerns. As stated, not every hull or wad is the same. You really need to pick a hull and wad then stick to the published data for that hull/wad combination only. You can't safely use load data for a difference hull and/wad than what you have on hand.

Example: if you are using Winchester hulls and Winchester wads, then you need to stick with data for that hull and wad combo. Or say you are using Federal hulls or Remington hulls, then you need to stick with the data for those hulls and also for the type/brand of wads you are using.

In addition, I will add that there are two types of wad configuration; Straight walled, also called Riefenheiser hulls, which Federal and all others except Winchester and Remington, which are tapered (on the inside) hulls. Don't mix them. Remington and Winchester type wad are frequently used in each other's hulls, but follow the Lyman manual or other published data. Ballistic Products is a good source for 16 ga. components, and they have reloading data for 16 also.