what is the differance in short or tall brass make in reloading shotgun shells

[briangsxr600]

Is there a difference when loading them what is the best to get I am looking for some once shot hulls this is my first time for reloading the shotgun hulls I had a thread going about what loader to get. thanks for the info on it I am still deciding to get the 600jr or move up to the progressive but I don't want to have to resize separate not in the functions of the press.

 

[NCsmitty]

It is wise to keep different style cases separate. Sometimes you'll get lucky and the components for low base will work in the high base, but it's more the exception than the rule.
Try to get one flavor and work with it so you don't have to deal with the differences.
Win AAHS seems to be the case of choice, but they bring a premium price.

NCsmitty

 

[NuJudge]

It's not the height of the brass outside that means anything, it's the volume inside. Frequently this involves the inside base wad height for built up cases. For compression formed, it is more correct to refer to volume.

I have the most experience with Winchester components, so I will talk about them:

All the Winchester compression formed cases have the same internal volume, regardless of brass height. For years I was using high brass Winchester compression formed cases. I got lots of funny looks at the range, but they were free.

Be really careful, as Winchester made not just compression formed high brass, but also built-up 'Reifenhauser' tube-wads-and-high-brass-plated-steel-head cases. The internal volumes are quite different.

The Lyman shotshell manual has an excellent discussion about these things. Do not load shells without reading it.

When you get done with that, worry about some cases having tapered walls, and others have straight walls, and how you should not use wads intended for the one, in the other.

There is a site, Shotgun world, which has a reloading board with a lot of really knowledgeable posters. I recommend it also. They do not replace a manual, however.

CDD

 

[Steve C]

The height of the brass makes no difference in shot shells of the same type construction and is for identification purposes. The difference in the shells is the construction of the hull ex. poly formed or compression formed and type of base; paper, one piece plastic or separate plastic base are examples.

Fore example, all 2-3/4" AA Winchester shells, target and Super X, have the same construction, base wad and case volume though there are differences in the brass base ht. All these shells can be loaded with the same data, brass base is of no consequence.

You can load everything from target loads to duck and pheasant laods in a low brass AA hull or high brass Super X.

Note the construction of the particular brand and type hull associated with the load data information in the manuals and follow it precisely.

 

[briangsxr600]

Thanks for the info I have been reloading for some time just not shotgun shells so I know to do nothing without a manual. I haven’t gone out to buy one for shotguns yet I plan on buying it, my press and everything I need at the same time. Thanks for the great info I found some win AA red and gray shells short brass. Can 00 buck be loaded in the win AA red or grays or will I need a different hull.

 

[briangsxr600]

What about a progressive press that does everything in one. I don’t want to have to size separate, or is it allot better to size separate?

 

[NuJudge]

For any press, progressive or single stage, you must separate your shotgun hulls, not just by maker but by inside configuration. Otherwise you probably will experience a blown up gun, sooner or later.

As an example, Winchester made compression formed 12 gauge cases with tapered sidewalls in the past, AA's. They now make a straight sidewall case assembled from a tube and tapered basewad that is supposed to load like the AA. They also make straight sidewall with a flat plastic basewad. I would treat all 3 differently, especially the third, as it's internal volume is very different.

CDD

 

[41 Mag]

AS already noted the Lyman manual is probably tops for ID and info on most available shells. Pick it up and your pretty much set. Then you can cross reference through the powder manufacturers data as well.

When I was shooting shotguns, I shot close to a case a week, and loaded them all one at a time on a simple little Pacific DL - 105 press,(http://pacificreloaders.awardspace.com/Pacific%20DL-105.htm). I got to a point I could turn out about a box every 15 minutes or so.

I still have it and it will still load very quality rounds even though it is a cheap press. To learn on it or similar presses are great, as you learn to set everything up and can instantly inspect what your doing. They will load just as good as any of the high dollar ones do only a tad slower. However once you get your load set up, your in business and can get into a groove and rock right along.

The only issue I ever had was the shot bottles breaking off at the neck. Of course this only happened after loading thousands of rounds, and after the first time, I knew what to look for. Besides I didn't want to spend all morning chasing #8 shot around on the floor.

Good luck, no matter which you choose to get. It is as fun as any other and the best thing is you can generally substitute the shot sizes for the identical charges, as most meter through bushings. With the bushing, the size only matters once you get to the shot that you need to count per shell, as only so much of any size will fit in a given bushing. I used the same bushing for #4 - #9 shot and all worked very well with the loads I used. I do highly suggest the Win AA cases as well, they will last through many loadings with field loads and also stand up fairly well to heavy loads.