Shot the LCR this afternoon...hand still hurts...

I had a standard 640 briefly, 20+ years ago. I would shoot a box of 50 158gr JHP 357mag and call it day after the flinch developed. Good way to save $.
That's one gun, I sold, and don't miss.
Well you were shooting 357. 38scp out of an all steel J-frame wouldn't be as bad. Most people who buy small 357 J-frame sized guns predominately shoot 38 spc through them and 357 occasionally only for ghots and siggles.

These aren't range and plinking guns that people typically shoot hundreds of rounds in one session with. Seems like you're expecting these handguns to fill a role they weren't intended to fill. They fill a role that the larger guns you own can not fill which is lightweight, small and compact, and easy to conceal.
 
I had a standard 640 briefly, 20+ years ago. I would shoot a box of 50 158gr JHP 357mag and call it day after the flinch developed. Good way to save $.
That's one gun, I sold, and don't miss.

I never bothered with the heavy loads in this gun, 125gr. Remington sjhp were more than plenty
 
I shoot the same full power 158 grain loads I shoot out of my 642 that I shoot with all my other 38 Special revolvers, 2"-4".

Theres o doubt, the Airweights are not real pleasant to shoot with, and a box of 50 is about all I want to put up with, but they still are shootable and accurate guns. They certainly are not just "belly guns", and if you can shoot, they will shoot accurately out to 25 yards, and beyond, with little trouble.

This is the only 642 I have left. I still shoot it a couple of times a month, to keep up on it. If you want tocarry them, the smaller grips are the way to go. If you arent carrying it, then it really doesnt matter what you do. If youre going to try and carry it with oversized grips, why bother? There are much better choices available.

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They shoot OK, and at further distances, then a lot of people seem to think. These were shot from around 15 yards and in. And most of those werent shot while static.

If you want to be proficient and competent with them, you do need to put in the time and effort to do so. No matter how much it might annoy your hand. :)

If you arent willing to do that, then Id look for something else. A Glock 26 really isnt any bigger, and a totally different critter when it comes to shooting and handling.

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Try hard cast wad cutters. I get them from Double Tap. They shoot good and should perform well. They really cut down on the recoil on the snub nose pistols.
 
I think part of my theory is that I was going to be carrying a heavier bullet. But I'm also planning on changing that up. I ordered some Underwood Xtreme Defender for my LCP. If it manages to eat everything I feed it (which it hasn't really done with hollowpoints), then I'm planning on switching to that brand as my go-to SD brand. 100 gr bullets I feel might be better.

Luckily I have a GP100 to eat the rest of the 158-grain bullets.

The round you quote has a lighter bullet, but has an advertised velocity of 1200 fps. It sounds like a good round for SD, but the price per round is high (> $2 per round) and it may not be that much less recoil. I swagged a 5 gr powder charge and estimated 6.2 ft-lbs from https://gunpros.com/recoil-calculator-charts/. Consider shooting mostly the much less expensive Win/RP 130s (< $0.70 per round). These will be lower recoil (~4.6 ft-lbs) and will allow you to work on form. Finish a session with one cylinder of your SD round if you feel like it.
 
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-Step 1 buy a Smith scandium framed .357 J frame.


The owner of the LGS I work at has the Smith&Wesson scandium frame snub-nose. He said it is the most extremely painful recoil of any gun he has ever fired. He managed a full cylinder.
 
The LCRx grips are less than an inch longer than the ones on my 642... so probably an inch or less longer than the original LCR grips (which would take me forever to find).

The LCRx grip happens to add just enough length that my LCR can't get turned around in the cargo pocket of my favorite shorts.

The 642 with its smaller grips fits in the back pocket of jeans better.

If they're both too big I carry an LCP.

The trigger and sights on the LCR are easily the best of the three, so it's my preferred carry piece. I would have to move up to a medium-framed steel revolver that weighs twice as much if I wanted to improve my accuracy a meaningful amount.

LIke this one. I really can shoot it better. I also weighs about 1.5 pounds loaded.

 
Do you have any technique advice on making it less painful?

I am not particularly recoil sensitive but what I have found is try to get your hand high up on the grip back strap, always a benefit when the grips fully encase the back strap. Larger rubber grips make a big difference at the cost of size.

My revolver grip is “thumb over thumb” I can’t say if that matters with recoil or not but it’s a data point.

The biggest issue I have with small “J Frame” sized revolvers is with hotter loads as the gun rocks/recoils the cylinder release has been known to batter my thumb / sometimes draw a little blood but that is with +P / .357 Maggie stuff.

Also I am a fan of .357 chambered guns where possible as they usually handle .38 better as has been said.

Like I said, however, physics is physics. They are small guns, shooting a powerful round (in relation to .32/.22 etc.) and they have no mechanical recoil mitigation such as a semi auto slide cycling.
 
-Step 1 buy a Smith scandium framed .357 J frame.


The owner of the LGS I work at has the Smith&Wesson scandium frame snub-nose. He said it is the most extremely painful recoil of any gun he has ever fired. He managed a full cylinder.


Years ago when these first came out I was talking to a guy who had bought one and after while I asked him how he liked it. His reply.
“I sold it. I figured if I was ever mugged I would just give him my wallet and throw him the gun too saying “take this damn thing too, it hurts.” “. :)
 
The biggest issue I have with small “J Frame” sized revolvers is with hotter loads as the gun rocks/recoils the cylinder release has been known to batter my thumb / sometimes draw a little blood but that is with +P / .357 Maggie stuff.

The gun was pretty stationary in my hand. (At least, until it started to hurt and I loosened up). The pain was on the back of the backstrap.

“I sold it. I figured if I was ever mugged I would just give him my wallet and throw him the gun too saying “take this damn thing too, it hurts.” “. :)

There's a lot of guns that the joke is you give them to your enemy, so he kills himself with the recoil.
 
I've owned and shot many lightweight and airweight (aluminium) revolvers over the years, in .32 to .44... so many J frames, a couple Colts and a bunch of Charter Arms. I fired a Ruger LCR .38 Special recently and it's easily the most obnoxious one of the lot. Havne't been able to analyze it, but shooting that one is just awful. Would never recommend that over a S&W or Charter.
 
My wife used my Model 60 S&W for a defensive training course so she wouldn't have to use her model 637. She fired over 550 rounds in less than 24 hours in the 60. Her only complaint was she was getting a blister on her finger pad. Weight matters.
She also outshot everyone else in the class and all were using Semi Auto pistols, she was the only revolver so shot more rounds than anyone else due to the reload aspects of the drills.
 
In case I missed seeing it, in the previously-posted replies, be sure to hold really high on the grip. It can feel “natural” for some of us to hold rather low, especially with small revolvers, but that lets the muzzle flip far worse. It is simple leverage, at work. See my avatar photo, how I am holding high, on my GP100. This principle will reduce muzzle flip, with any revolver of conventional design, with its bore axis located higher than the shooter’s hand.

I learned my lesson with my first SP101, in the early or mid-Nineties, holding too low. Shooting Mags was painful, so I sold or traded it away. In 1997, after reading or hearing something about gripping small-frame revolvers, I tried another SP101, and paid special attention to holding high on the grip, with much better results, even with the harsh 125-grain duty-type loads, and 180-grain hunting loads. (Not that I generally carried these stoutest loads in the SP101, but I wanted to know what would happen, if the heavier stuff was used during an emergency reload.)

I have yet to try an LCR-series revolver, so, cannot address any specific issues with the factory grip options, or after-market grips.

One thing about grips, in general, is that by age 56, I definitely preferred that a handgun grip reach all the way to make firm contact with the “heel bone” part of my hand, especially if shooting with my gimpier right hand.

By age 41, or so, I stopped wanting to shoot .38 J-Frames, of the ~14-ounce Airweight construction, with anything more powerful than standard-pressure .38 Specials. Now, at 61, target wadcutters are my choice, with my Airweight, and I avoid shooting it right-handed.
 
I always like that S&W Model 329PD Scandium 44 mag revolver. When it was just released, we had one come through the gun shop I was working at. I got the opportunity to shoot it on the range at a manufacturer shoot. My friends and co-workers all shot it with full house 44 mag and told me how painful it was. When it was my time to try it, I told them I know what pain is and don't need more practice at it. I grabbed box of 44 special cowboy loads. It was pleasant to shoot with those rounds.

https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/n-frame-163414
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I rented a .357 LCR and got a box of Federal from the counter. Can't remember which but one cylinder ruined my day. Never got over the flinch and my hand definitely hurt afterwards. In spite of this I purchased the .38+p model because teh trigger was nice and it has been a very good gun. Golden saber 125gr +p or standard 158gr has enough for me. I'd like to try the newer Federal 130gr micro. Seems about ideal for something like the LCR unless you're going for pure penetration.
 
In case I missed seeing it, in the previously-posted replies, be sure to hold really high on the grip. It can feel “natural” for some of us to hold rather low, especially with small revolvers, but that lets the muzzle flip far worse. It is simple leverage, at work. See my avatar photo, how I am holding high, on my GP100. This principle will reduce muzzle flip, with any revolver of conventional design, with its bore axis located higher than the shooter’s hand.

My question had nothing to do with muzzle flip. If anything, letting the muzzle flip might have helped my problem.
 
Hand and wrist damage.

I watch Wilson Combat videos on a regular basis.
And longtime gun instructor Mas Ayoob is a
regular featured speaker.

He shows off his hands, particularly his right
one, all gnarled with arthritis and comments
about recoil from different calibers.

His volume of shooting was probably pretty high
and he like all can be victims of the incessant,
constant recoil of thousands of rounds of ammo
of all calibers.

And as he says, he isn't young any more either.

My personal advice is don't go the big blaster route
in handgunning. Keep your shooting in any great
amount to 9mm and .38 Special in "heavy" guns. And shun the
magnums except on rare occasions. This is for
younger and older shooters alike.

Too dang often I've seen comments on gun forums
and this one is no exception from shooters who
say they have no problem with the big calibers.
They say they feel no ill effects. Give it some time
and they will suffer.
 
I have the 9mm LCRx. It weighs the same as the .357. I can shoot a bow or two of 115 grains without problems. Snappy but manageable. I have a Pachmayr Guardian grip on it.
 
These are belly guns, made for across the card table distances at best. There is little use in range practice with them as they’re meant as bad breath distance pieces only. Made to carry often and shoot seldom.
Ah, the old "belly gun" philosophy, haven't seen it for a while.

LCRs, J frame snubs are all capable of effective accuracy at 25 yards, so no, they're not built strictly for the exact scenarios you suggest and regular practice at 15 yards is a good idea, but not once that requires 100s of rounds worth every two weeks. They also are meant for 125gr or lighter projectiles, so leave the 158gr stuff at home.

Which leads to my next point: the .38 caliber is not the best caliber for snubs, the .32 is. 100gr of .32 has a higher ballistic coefficient than 125gr .38 does, yet 20% less recoil and compared to 158gr has 37% less recoil.

Actually belly guns under your definition would be stuff like NAA mini revolvers, Ruger LCP, H&R Young America, Hi Standard derringers, etc.
 
These are belly guns, made for across the card table distances at best. There is little use in range practice with them as they’re meant as bad breath distance pieces only. Made to carry often and shoot seldom.

I have heard that for over half a century, from family, friend, random strangers.

My take is that the C in LCR is Carry, not Extended Range Time.
A relative bought a Ruger LCR and a Ruger LC9s at a 2016 Black Friday promotion. After a little range time, she kept the LC9s.
I have a steel frame 2" barrel J-frame clone .38 revolver with grips that sorta match my Ruger Security Six. Both are extended range time guns and practice with the 2" is not an ordeal.
 
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I won't fall for the belly gun BS they are plenty capable of accuracy well beyond bad breath range.
There's plenty that can be done to practice without shooting high round counts each session.
More dry firing, lighter recoiling ammo or a second heavier snub for the majority of your shooting.
Realistically if you can shoot 10 rounds accurately IMHO you really just need to maintain that, beating up your hand past that isn't necessary.
 
Its pretty hard to do or gain anything realistic with even just 50 rounds.

If youre going to carry one, you really need to be realistic in your practice and put in the time and effort to get good with it.
 
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