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Shotgun barrel separation?

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DaveyMG

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May 26, 2013
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Meridian Idaho
I've got a Finnish made Savage 880 12ga O/U and it appears that the barrels are separating from the chambers? Anybody ever seen this before? I will get a pic in a few minutes. Just curious how I might go about repairing it? I know that it's probably more cost effective to buy a new gun, but this little thing has alot of sentimental value to me. Worst case scenario I will try to hunt down a complete used set of barrels, but would prefer to fix the existing if possible. It appears that there is a retaining pin missing between the barrels, hidden by the forend. I will take a pic right now. Thanks!
 
Are you actually detecting movement, seeing a gap that was not there before, or just noticing the "missing pin"? Double barrel shotguns are typically attached together via soft solder. Some use a monoblock at the breach with barrel tubes slipped in and soldered. I don't know of any that are screwed or pinned together.
 
The thin vertical line where the tiny amount of rust is showing did not use to be there, it doesn't necessarily move freely, but I am tempted to whack the muzzles with a rubber dead blow hammer, to see if I can close the gap, but what should I do to secure them permanently if they do move with that little amount of force? Silver solder? Thanks!
 
No, you can't get it hot enough to use silver solder without melting all the solder out of the ribs and barrel joints.

It really isn't a DIY job repairing it.

I would contact Briley for proper repair.
It won't be cheap, but it will be done right.

rc
 
As rc says, no on the silver solder. The barrels on those guns, with very few exceptions, are soft soldered which is why they cannot be hot blued. The hot bluing salts will eat the soft solder. Briley, Simmons, and a few others can repair it properly.
 
I'm a machinist with access to just about anything, tools and materials-wise. I asked on here to try and get a little how-to suggestions. I kinda want the satisfaction of doing it myself, and I don't plan on shooting it very often after, just a tiny bit of skeet every few years. If I were to send it to a professional, how would they do it? And by soft solder do you mean lead, flux-core, lead free?
 
A professional will use a special fixture to lock the barrels and ribs together so when they heat the barrels to soft solder it, the barrels and ribs can't separate.
This does not mean they'll just wire everything together and hope they stay together.

Barrels have not only two barrels, they also have several ribs all soft soldered together.
These barrels and ribs are usually under at least some stress and tend to "pop" apart when you try to re-solder them.
Since better guns have the barrels regulated or adjusted to shoot to the same point during manufacture, once they come apart they will no longer shoot properly.
That's why you need a real professional shotgun expert to re-solder barrels, not you local gunsmith.

Next, since there's rust present and solder will not adhere well to rust, a professional will have to know how to deal with the rust issue.

What solder used depends on the gun and it's age.
Older gun makers used almost pure lead as solder, later makers used a more modern soft solder, each using a different type according to their experience on what worked.
A few modern guns may use high temp brazing instead of soft solder.

Bottom line: This is absolutely NOT something you want to try on your own unless you're an expert shotgun barrel technician.
Try it on your own and either the barrels and ribs will pop apart, or worst, they may not pop apart......until you shoot it, and possibly not until you've shot it a bit and think you're good to go.

In either case, the charges to totally disassemble and completely re-assemble the barrels correctly so they shoot together will give you a bad case of money shock for the charges.

Best advice: Be smart and send them in to a real expert like Briley or Simmons.
This is one of those gunsmithing jobs that really does require a genuine expert specialist.
 
Ah I see what you are saying. This one has a single solid rib from chamber to muzzle, I think if I made a jig to hold the barrels under tension, applied a rust remover, and used a combination of heat dissipating material, and a very fine precise heat source I might have good success.
 
This seems to be a problem with these shotguns. I have seen two others that have exhibited the same separation that yours has. One was on the order of 1/8", very apparent. I was able to heat sink the ribs and apply enough heat to the monoblock to get it back in order. I used a piece of 1/2" all thread with nuts and big washers on each end to pull it back in place while heating. I added some Brownells 44 solder while hot. As far as I know the repair is still holding from 30 years ago.
 
Glad I could be of assistance. Another thought would be to use a large piece of PVC pipe capped and full of water to keep things cool.
 
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