Shotgun ignoramus seeks ammo advice

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I haven't shot skeet or trap in a long time. But I usually did not use my 410's for trap. Skeet shooting has rules about shot size and shot weight. For actual skeet competitions, the 410 is restricted 1/2 ounce loads and all gauges are restricted to shot size between 7 1/2 and 9.


https://www.nssa-nsca.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/2010_NSSA_Rule_Book_2010-02-06.pdf

And since the Henry is only chambered for 2 /12" shells you are good to go on 1/2 ounce shot shells. Find shells in 7 1/2, 8, or 9 shot that shoots the best out of your Henry and enjoy yourself.
 
That's ME!! :thumbup::D

Well, by now you have a pretty good idea of how limited your .410 will be at Trap. And I know you just want to shoot it “for fun”. But it’s a lot more fun to actually break targets. And to work the lever firing multiple shots. At Skeet you can do that. Grumpy Old Men shoot Skeet, it’s just not a requirement.

The best use of that shotgun would be informal “backyard” clays. There you could load the magazine full and shoot as fast as someone can launch the targets. It’s a lot easier to hit when you’re standing next to the trap instead of 16 yards behind it. You’ll feel like Chuck Connors.
 
For singles Trap, only one round is loaded in the gun at a time. ...
Well, by now you have a pretty good idea of how limited your .410 will be at Trap....

Ya, no kidding!! Crap!! This is a case of me leaping before looking. The Henry I bought is the previous model without side-gate. I think that puts the kibosh on trap. Just the thought of having to pull that tube mag every time to load one round..... I don't mind tube loading (if I can fill the tube) and when I bought the gun I just couldn't see paying another $250+ to get a new one with a side-gate. But knowing this puts on a whole different spin. I think maybe I'll go the Chuck Connors route.
 
Ya, no kidding!! Crap!! This is a case of me leaping before looking. The Henry I bought is the previous model without side-gate. I think that puts the kibosh on trap. Just the thought of having to pull that tube mag every time to load one round..... I don't mind tube loading (if I can fill the tube) and when I bought the gun I just couldn't see paying another $250+ to get a new one with a side-gate. But knowing this puts on a whole different spin. I think maybe I'll go the Chuck Connors route.

You don't have to pull the tube every time. Just drop a shell into and and close it! Works for singles at least.
 
You don't have to pull the tube every time. ...
Ya, I know, that finally crossed the caffeine / brain barrier after I posted the above. I can single-load through the ejection port.

NEVER MIND!!
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Whether on the skeet range or shooting informal on the back 40, I love the look on peoples faces when I use an odd ball to break clays. I have even used my 410 Shockwave a couple of times just for the fun of it.
 
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My gun's barrel is NOT threaded to take a choke.

Most shotguns without screw in chokes are made with some kind choke machined into the end of the barrel. Check with your manual or call Henry.

My .410 Mossberg 500 barrel is machined with a full choke at the end of the barrel for example.

It would be nice to know what you have to start with before changing things.

Not all, but most fixed choke barrels can be machined for screw in chokes. If you buy a bunch of chokes, it can get expensive.

At clay games, a .410 is a real attitude adjuster. On a skeet field with target speed ammunition (about 1200 fps), the leads are the same for all gauges. With .410, you just cannot be off as much as with the larger gauges. 1/2 oz of shot does not go very far.

If a skeet or trap field is not busy, you might be able to concentrate on one or two stations and have fun there. It helps if you have a buddy to spot for you and you can spot for him/her.

If you are just shooting for fun and your gun accepts 3" shells, the extra shot will help make more hits.

Have fun with your new shotgun.
 
Most shotguns without screw in chokes are made with some kind choke machined into the end of the barrel....
The short barrel version of this gun, which is what I have, comes not threaded / fixed cylinder bore. The long barrel version of this gun comes threaded with a full choke installed. Oddly enough the "X" platform version of this gun, which has the same short barrel as mine, does come threaded w/ full choke.
 
I'd explore getting the barrel threaded for interchangeable chokes.

In my .410 over/unders, I shoot skeet with skeet chokes installed. The full choke Mossberg's pattern is a bit tight and does not allow for much lead error. But it does dust the targets well.

One advantage to the screw in chokes is if you get extended chokes you have protection for the end of the barrel. Shotguns are carried alot and if you bump the muzzle, it is easier and quicker to swap out the choke.

Last year, I was shooting a new over/under which was stiff to open and close. It just was not as "loose" as my competition skeet gun. I had trouble opening the gun at one time and bumped the muzzle on the concrete walk. The choke was dinged, not badly, but I just needed to swap out the choke for a new one and the gun was fixed.
 
The ISSF standard to break a clay in international competition is about .6nm on their little testing jig. It works out to about 4.4 ft bls on an area the size of a 1/4" circle. So the smaller size of the pellet means the energy is more concentrated (ie you can probably get away with a bit less energy). With a #7.5 pellet at 1200 fps at the muzzle 1 pellet has enough energy, at 36 yards you are looking at needing at least 3 pellets to reach that energy total, and same at 45 yds. The closer you can get those 3 pellets next to each other the more likely they are to break the clay. So if they are widely separated across the entire strike face of the clay, you will probably need more. How many more is an excellent question that would make for an interesting science experiment I may attempt. I'd say you'd be safe with 6 pellets in the 110mm by 10mm edge of the clay at normal trap engagement ranges.
 
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