Shotgunners I need information on slugs

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wirewelder

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I'am a pistol guy who is moving into the shotgun world. I need to understand some things about slugs. I have been told that my Mossberg 500 rifled slug barrel needs SABOT type slugs. I'am assuming that there are other types than sabot. Who manufactures this Sabot type of slug ammo, and what special chacteristics should i be looking for? I was given a box of Aguila slugs when i bought the gun. Dealer says they are correct. In my travels to the local gun stores around my area, i have yet to see anymore Aguila brand anywhere. I don't want to damage a brand new gun with improper ammo. Please help if you can , :) shotgun man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
They are correct that you should shoot sabot slugs in a rifled barrel. I also saw that someone makes a non sabot slug for a rifled barrel. Most non-sabot slugs are "rifled slugs" in which they perform like a rifle in a smooth bore.

I am not familar with aguilla ammunition, so I can't help you out there.

Charby
 
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All the major manufacturers make sabot slugs, and any good size sporting goods or big box store will have them. Some shotgun barrels are rifled just like a rifle or pistol barrel, they are best suited to sabot slugs. The other slugs are Foster type, intended for shooting in smoothbores. You won't hurt your barrel shooting Foster type slugs but it is doubtful they will be as accurate as sabots and are likely to leave some leading behind in the barrel.

Try different brands, see what groups best in your barrel. And keep the barrel retaining screw on tight for more uniform results. Be sure your form is good, cheat with a PAST pad or sissy bag if you want, sighting in with slugs at the bench can be punishing...

lpl/nc
 
Here is a site at Remington that will show you what a sabot slug looks like.

http://www.remington.com/ammo/shotshell/pcs_sabsl.htm

Here is a foster style designed for smoothbore barrels.

http://www.remington.com/ammo/shotshell/slugger.htm


The Rem buckhammer is also designed for rifled barrels, but isn't a sabot but has a stabilizer for the rifleing to grab.

http://www.remington.com/ammo/shotshell/buckhammer.htm

Hope this clears things up. Look around other manufacturers for different types of sabots.
 
Fwiw...

I've been using slugs for close to 40 years. If you have a rifled barrel, the info you were given was correct. The Foster type slug is basically a pumpkin-ball with rifling moulded in to give it some spin. They have an open base like a Minie ball, and the forces of the powder open the base of the slug to fill the barrel. Biggest problem typically is when the slug tries to clear the choke. If a minor nick on a rifle crown causes inaccuracy, imagine what a full choke grabbing a slug does. These are for smooth bores and work best with no choke.

In saboted rounds, the plastic sabot engages the rifling of a rifled slug barrel and gives excellent spin. I suspect he suggested Augila because that's either what he'd used or that's what they had.

If you look on the boxes, there will be lots of different velocities (assuming you have a decent selection). Some of the new Federal and Winchester offerings exceed 1,900 fps. These shoot considerably harder and flatter than rifle calibers like .45-70. I suspect they'd take a cape buffalo no problem. Best thing is they shoot flat. I took a moving coyote at 130 yards with a Remington copper solid. As you may suspect, they kill on both ends. I'd suggest a good recoil pad. There are also versions with lighter bullets in the sabot that would probably kick less

Personally, I'd start with Federal, then Winchester. That's just personal experience. YMMV. That said, I use the Remington copper solids because they shoot extemely well from my 870, but they don't seem to do well in non-Remington guns. I have no idea why.

When you get to this level, you give up very little to rifle hunters. A 400 grain bullet at nearly 2,000 fps will take anything you want to kill. I can probably hold baseball sized groups at 150 yards or so. Good enough. HTH
 
i second the recoil pad. A box of slugs out of my 20ga will leave me with a black and blue sholder.
 
[dumb question]
I assume sabot slugs don't get any spin out of a smoothbore, and therefore that's not the thing to do, true? Wouldn't that essentially be like shooting a musket?
[/dumb question]

Are there any sabot slugs with rifled sabots that spin in a smoothbore?
 
[dumb question]
I assume sabot slugs don't get any spin out of a smoothbore, and therefore that's not the thing to do, true? Wouldn't that essentially be like shooting a musket?
[/dumb question]
Are there any sabot slugs with rifled sabots that spin in a smoothbore?
<Dumb answer> yes. Rifled chokes help with the spin. And I don't know, I've never fired a smoothbore musket.</dumb answer>

I don't know about the rifled sabot as I have never seen one, it doesn't mean they don't exist, just means I haven't seen one. Always used a rifled choke tube for any sabot loads. :cool:

this makes for interesting bathroom reading: http://www.chuckhawks.com/shotgun_slugs.htm
 
Mine the Archives, there's a Slugs 101 threads and lots of others with pertinent info.

Briefly, there's few hard and fast rules about slugs.

Generally, sabot (Pronounced Sa-boh, French for shoe) loads work best in fully rifled barrels.

Rifled slugs work best in smoothbores and/or rifled choke tubes. Rifled slugs fall into two groups, the Forster style and the Brenekkes. The Forster style derives from the old hollow based Minie design. Otto Brenekke designed his slug with an attached felt wad that stays with the slug through the target.

NOTE: The KO Brenekke 1 oz slug is misnamed. It's actually a Forster style with no attachments. Still a good slug.

All three varieties work well on deer sized game. If I were going after bigger stuff, like elk and big bear, I'd go with the Brenekkes. Their heavier weight and great sectional density mean lots of penetration.

If I HAD to use a barrel with lots of choke for slugs, I'd try the various Forsters styles first. The hollow design swages down nicely through even a full choke.

The only way to find out which slug is best in YOUR shotgun is benchtesting. Buy some 5 packs, use good form and recoil protection and take your time.
 
Geez, am I the only guy left who still uses cheap forster rifled slugs in a Mossberg 500 rifled barrel? I've been doing that for 15 years with factory and reloaded slugs and accuracy has always been fine for me out to 100yds or less. The 12ga. forsters that I reload mike out at about .68" or almost exactly the width of my rifled barrel,so they're definitely not a "smoothbore only" proposition.
 
Aguila is spanish for eagle, they are owned by "The Big Green"-- Remington.
I don't know why Mossberg says you gotta use sabots (do what they say anyway). However I have an 870 with an extended rifled choke tube that REALLY tightens up my groups with slugs. Sabots are supposed to allow you to shoot a lighter/smaller projectile in a larger bore to allow for higher velocity. Funny thing, Colorado won't allow the use of sabots for anything including muzzle loaders! I can't get sabot slugs out here for anything less than $2.50 / round! I can't afford to sight in my shotty at that price! You can find Aguila ammunition at midwayusa.com
 
Poodleshooter, I also shoot the cheap Forster slugs out of a rifled barrel (Mossy 500 no less). It does lead up but nothing some chore boy won't fix. I can't justify the sabot price when the cheap Remington Sluggers are just as accurate for me.
 
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