Shots to Zero

How many shots does it take for you to be satisfied with your rifles zero ??


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Pistol Ranch

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How many shots does it take for you to be satisfied with your rifles zero ??

1. 1
2. 2-5
3. 6-10
4. 11-20
5. 21 or more

P.R.
 
Typically ~10 rounds at 100 yds when using a new scope to get it about 1" high. That way I know I will be close at 200 yds. Then another 10 rounds at 200 to make it a good zero.

If I am just checking a zero or if the zero got bumped a little bit, typically less than 10 shots at 200 yds to get it back on.


But for me to be "satisfied" with a zero means a good 5 shot group. (flyers due to shooter error excluded)
 
I am not sure if you are aware, but you can use the one shot zero method. :banghead: I do believe in it, within certain parameters.

Seriously, though I have corrected off of 1 shot as the rifle/sight/load package was known. It is however situational. One factor is I have to be happy with the 1 shot.

On a new or otherwise unknown rifle package I would shoot more for sure.
 
I voted 2-5. But, it depends on application. When shooting steel at 100 to 300 yards, a one-shot zero at 25-to 30 yards is all I need to get on-target for a 15" steel gong at 300 yards. And I am then, always on-target. ;)

If I am varmint hunting, I'll take a 25 to 30 yard zero, then a 100 yard zero, and a 300 yard zero. The 100 yard zero is really not needed. I simply prefer to use my majority of rounds at distance, not in close range "groups".

JMHE,

Geno
 
I am not sure if you are aware, but you can use the one shot zero method. I do believe in it, within certain parameters.

I believe in one shot to confirm a zero. But I consider every animal deserving of a clean kill. Meaning at least 5 rounds to actually zero a riflescope and ensuring a clean shot will be made.

But that is being discussed in another thread so lets not keep it going here. That is just my parameter for a one-shot "zero" if that is what you want to call it
 
Zeroing for me includes sighting in a scope and load development so I said 21 or more. Because each load changes the POI, it's part of zeroing for me.
 
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...you to be satisfied with your rifles zero ??

The way you said this, I imagined confirming zero after traveling with a gun or double checking zero prior to a hunt....so I said 2-6.

If you're talking about after mounting a new scope, and I'm using good quality parts, then probably 8-12. Four to six to zero, and 4-6 for an initial group.
 
It usually takes me three, but I use targets that have a one inch grid on them and bore sight when mounting a new scope.
 
Take the most extreme case of buying a rifle, bases, rings, scope and factory ammunition a day before a hunting trip. So no experience at all with this system. I'd say at least ten shots including one at 50 yards, two at 100 yards and three at 200 yards, adjusting the scope as required. Finally, a four or five shot group at 200 yards. That would test out the scope, rings, bases, ammunition and rifle and give me enough confidence in all of the components to take a shot on a deer or similar out to 200 yards.
 
Yep, what 1858 said. Also depends if you shoot one last round to see, or if you shoot a small three shot group to get an average of where it will go.
 
I use a 5 round cluster at 100 yards to zero, then I'll shoot 5 rounds at 200 yards and tweak it if necessary. My ideal zero is at 230 yards, for my .308, so I try to zero 1" high at 200 yards.
 
What you do is you shoot 3 shot groups and find the average point of impact. Then you adjust the scope to center that average POI, and shoot another 3 shot group. When your shots are hitting where you want, you put up a small target like a blue rock or something and get real steady. If you hit that on the first shot from a cool barrel you are done. So theoretically 7 shots would be ideal. I have seen guys shoot 2 boxes of shells making really easy mistakes. One mistake is not starting out close enough to get on paper. Sometimes I have to start at 5 or 10 yds, then go to 25, then 50 then 100 then 200. I have seen guys shoot one shot, adjust, shoot another shot adjust etc. They shoot a box of shells chasing that sucker around. You don't want to do that. Keep that spotting scope in the trunk and keep your buddy quiet. (there is a place for the spotting scope if you are keeping track of brass performance on an already zeroed target rifle). I have seen guys rest the barrel on something and wonder why the rifle won't zero. Keep the rifle rested right (off the barrel) and do everything the same every time. (Hand position, rifle position etc.) And remember the most important aspect of zero that matters to the hunter is the first shot off a cold barrel.
 
I bore sight. At 100yds adjust the point of impact. At 200yds establish the zero. Follow up range session shoot a (20) shot group @ 200yds to establish accuracy level of the shooter/load/optics/rifle. If I have access to a 300yd line or further I shoot that range also.
 
If I am using it for hunting and already have it zeroed, one shot to confirm makes me happy (if it lands in the right spot on target).
 
I chose both 6-10 and 21+.

I zero-ed in my Remington 700 in .22-250 at 100 yards with just 7 shots. There was no wind and the .22-250 is very flat-shooting. It has a really nice Leupold 12x scope on it. It was easy and I was very satisfied.

However, My Browning model 52 which is a .22LR was a bit more tricky. This one had a Leupold M8 Compact and was a little touchy when it came to a good zero at round 40 yards. Took a good 20 shots before I was anywhere close to POA, then an additional 15 rounds to get it spot on. Wasn't a big deal though since it was a .22
 
Depends on what you mean. I can usually mount a new scope and by the 3rd shot I am close enough to hunt out to 100 yards. I will then extend the range and fine tune my scopes adjustments. I usually like either a 100 or 200 yard zero depending on the rifle and where I'll be hunting. I then shoot at ranges from 50 yards out to 300-400 yards and make notes as to where my bullets impact before hunting.
 
After the bore sighting and the first 3 rounds, I like to shoot a 10 group, if all is well , I recheck all scope and action screws, zero the scope adjustment knobs, if applicable, then fire the next 10 rounds to check the scope for repeatability by shooting a box, right, down, left, up. Then and only then do I consider the rifle sighted in.
 
With a scoped bolt-action, I boresight at 100 yards or so. Then I get dead-on at 25 yards, which rarely takes more than three shots.

Dead on at 25 is commonly two or three inches high at 100 yards. If I've been lucky, I'm within one or two inches of "horizontal perfection". :)

After that, I shoot three-shot groups and move the group center to my usual two inches high at 100 yards. Commonly, no more than two or maybe three such groups.

So, all it twelve shots total. Sometimes, with luck, around eight or nine.

An AR with irons? Maybe two or three inches low at 25, which at worst gets me on the paper at 100. After that, it's not different than the usual effort.
 
Since I define 'zero' to mean 'knowing where my bullet will land within the effective and anticipated range of use', I'm clearly in the same camp as 1858:
I'd say at least ten shots including one at 50 yards, two at 100 yards and three at 200 yards, adjusting the scope as required. Finally, a four or five shot group at 200 yards. That would test out the scope, rings, bases, ammunition and rifle and give me enough confidence in all of the components to take a shot on a deer or similar out to 200 yards.
If you define 'zero' to mean something else, then your answer will likely vary from mine.
 
2-5 with a rifle that has been scoped for a while and since I am using it for hunting I will usually make certain it's on and on shots 2-5 that pretty much verifiys it for my peace of mind.
Whatever it takes on a new scope that has just been mounted.
Was helping a guy last year that had bought a cheap Barska scope that was correctly mounted but just could not hold zero...Bad scope and it went back for a warranty replacement.
 
When I get myself a new rifle, I consider myself to be part of the system. It will take me from 8 (minimum) to 11 (typical) to get it the system where I will hunt with it. I will then shoot 3 or 4 more 3 shot groups to integrate myself into the system. Note: This assumes that I have picked up 3 or more boxes of factory ammo from the same lot or that I am using handloads (and does not include the rounds needed to work up a handload--minimum of 9 to 12).
 
I typically shoot 10-20 rounds at 100 yards to get where I want too and always finish off at 200 yards. Depending on the bullet, (copper build up) I will sometimes clean the barrel, shoot a fouler and then finish at 200 .
 
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