Shotshell Reloading???

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Patocazador

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I have been reloading metallic cartridges for 35 years but want to load 20 ga. shotshells for my granddaughter. I'm looking at getting a MEC 600 Jr. but know next to nothing about them or shotshell reloading.

I see 600 Jrs. for sale in various gauges but also see die sets for sale. Do the presses in 20 ga. already come setup with the basics for reloading or are other accessories necessary to get started?

(If this is in the wrong forum, please move. I couldn't find a shotshell reloading heading.)
 
If it's listed as a 20ga MEC it will be set up with the appropriate dies. 600jr is a great little press. I don't load much anymore after shot prices went skyward.
 
The press will come with the dies installed, however some small adjustment might be required. No big deal though it is real simple. The press will also come with a charge bar and powder bushing, they will probably not be the ones you will want, so you will need to replace them. Shotshell loading is easy to learn.
Check MECs web site.
https://www.mecshootingsports.com/c-83-mec-reloaders.aspx
 
When I used to do a lot of trap shooting, the Mec Jr. was the loader I used.
It's not as fast or convenient as their progressives, but it was easy to use and did a good job, for the price.
But precautions are in order as compared to reloading for handguns and rifles.
Every single component used for shotgun reloading must be compatible with all the others.
The case, the wad, everything must follow the load data, in addition to the pellet load and choice of powder.
Mixing them in an unapproved manner is trouble.
If you haven't already gotten one, a good shotgun reloading manual will explain.
 
Mec 600 jr is a great press I used one
In 12ga now I just load metallic just remember
With shotgun you fallow recipes in reading data you
Don't work up loads like metallic
 
The MEC 600jr is a great shot shell press and parts are available to convert them to load any of the common gauges.

But, the change overs are not convenient, easy or simple. You might do it once but never again.:)

I have four 600jr's, one set up for 12, 20, and 28 gauge as well as one for .410. When I was shooting competitive skeet, I loaded and shot all four gauges.

So, I recommend buying a MEC 600jr already set up for 20 gauge.

Powder i controlled by bushings that fit in the charge bar. MEC charge bars have s fixed cavity of the weight of shot desired (1-1/8 oz, 1 oz, 7/8 oz etc). There are universal adjustable charge bars available for the MEC 600jr. Then shot and powder charges can be dialed in with the charge bar.

I preferred the MEC charge bars for all gauges except .410 but with the universal charge bar, you do not have to buy a drawer full of bushings.

There are two sizes of bottles available for the MEC presses. The large bottle can be handy for shot as you do not have to fill it as often.

There is a baffle available for the powder bottle. It screws in line between the bottle and the press. It can help getting more consistent powder charges.

MEC makes a tray for stacking shells of insertion in boxes. As the shell comes off the press, put it in the tray. When 25 shells are stacked, the box slips over the stack of shells and you have a box of shells.

I have the primer feed system on two of my presses. It was ok but it took constant watching to make sure a primer was fed to the seating station. I found it as quick as placing the primers by hand. No real benefit on the 600jr in my opinion.

Make sure you always put the filling plugs in the bottom of the bottles after you refill them. When it comes time to empty the bottles, you flip the bottles and charge bar over. If the plugs are not in place, you will spill shot and powder everywhere. I guarantee that you will only do this no more than once.:)

Hope this helps.
 
I have used a MEC 600 in several gauges, they are made well.
My main use for the 600 jr is buck shot so I can load them manually easier and use the MEC 9000 for mass produced shells.

BUT, you can use the 600 to make many shells per hour after you get use to it, just like any other press either metallic or shot shell.

I like the 600's and have used them for many years, most of mine have the steel dies that they quit making years ago. The new dies work well also.

You will NEED to use load data for the type of shell you are planning on using, ie. Winchester,Remington, etc....
DO NOT substitute components that are listed in the official load data. Substituting components could lead to many problems including wad column height issues, this would mean that your shell may not crimp correctly with petals not closing or dished in losing shot out the loosely crimped end.

With proper components and good load data, you will be able to make shot shells that look and feel like factory.

You will need powder bushings to match the type and volume of powder used.
They have a chart included that explains this, or you could look on their web site.

You could go here and download the .pdf for the 600 and read it, this would give you a heads up.
https://www.mecshootingsports.com/t-ownersmanuals-sr.aspx

Have fun and be safe.
TxD
 
Thanks everyone for the wealth of information. It helps a lot. I've moved from shotshell kindergarten to the sixth or seventh grade. ;)
 
Just keep in mind that there's not much money to be saved on 12 gauge. But for 20 gauge there's definitely a little more wiggle room.

I'm about to pick up another MEC press in 20 gauge so I can load for my girlfriends O/U while I keep my 12 gauge for clays.
 
Just keep in mind that there's not much money to be saved on 12 gauge.

If you're just loading #8s and the like for busting clays or hunting doves, then you are absolutely correct.

But if a man cast his own buckshot or cast his own slugs, there is money to be saved.
Likewise for waterfowl stuff. 3.5" steel shot is pretty expensive. You can save there as well.
 
The only additional accessories you'll need will be powder bushings and shot bar, or bars.

The good news is both the shot bars and powder bushings are relatively inexpensive. I haven't bought any 600 jr. bars or bushings in over 30 years, so I don't know what they run these days, but I'm fairly certain the bars are probably around $15 and the bushings are probably $2-$3 each.

First get your hands on some recipes and shot weight your interested in running, then cross those recipes with the bushings that will fall into the charge weight. I recommend having one bushing on each side of the charge, so if the charge were 12 gr. of Red Dot, I would buy 3 bushing in that are charted on both sides of that throw weight.

You'll obviously only need the bar for the shot charge you are going to load.

GS
 
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On Shotgun World there is a subforum shotshell reloading that is very informative. A MEC 20ga loader is a very good loader. I have 3 - a 12ga, 20ga and 410 i also have a set of 16 ga dies. Dies area PIA to change on a MEC but doable. the guys on shotgun world are friendly and very knowledgeable.

good luck,

Bull
 
As gamestalker wrote you will need a shot bar of the appropriate shot weight you wish to dispense AND a powder bushing that throws the charge you wish to dispense. Both these are normally non adjustable though an adjustable bar is made but is much more expensive.

Be aware that shot-shell reloading isn't like metallic ammo in that you do no load development and must use the load from the manual exactly as specified in all components with some substitutions in wads allowed for clones of the major manufacturers by aftermarket companies.

Its best to standardize on a type and brand of shot gun shell and get what is needed to load it. Shotgun shells made for trap and skeet will be the best for reloading as they generally will get many loading out of each hull while the low cost or field loads use different plastic material that are good for only one or maybe two re-loadings before they split.
 
Someone mentioned above about casting your own slugs and shot, I do both and it's just another way to make more versatile loads at cheaper costs.
Making shot is not cheap to get started in any more...I have an old green shotmaker with 2 drippers that drop into a soup can.
It's pretty old and you can't get in any hurry but it makes perfect shot, It was made around the 70's somewhere. It was cheaper then.

I mold my own buckshot for my 20 & 12 gauge & 410 too.

It's all what I call sub-hobbies or reloading.

It's not always how much you save on shells like in 12 gauge, it's that you can make what you want when you want it. I have not bought any factory shells or any ammo in many years.
But I like this stuff, it's not a job to me...A glass of iced tea and I'm off making ammo the way I want it.
ALL BY THE BOOK THOUGH. (mostly)

TxD

Ps...Like in metallic reloading, several shot shell load data manuals are advised and pretty well needed to get a versatile library of load data.
Plus the powder companies have down loadable data, but I'm sure you already know that .
 
If you're just loading #8s and the like for busting clays or hunting doves, then you are absolutely correct.



But if a man cast his own buckshot or cast his own slugs, there is money to be saved.

Likewise for waterfowl stuff. 3.5" steel shot is pretty expensive. You can save there as well.


You're right; thanks for the clarification. I mostly load target loads but have stopped for the time being because I picked up a couple flats of gun clubs that are the same cost (on sale) as my hand loads.

I'm still running through inventory of slugs I got on sale too, but it's a great place to save a few bucks.
 
Have three 600s, two 650s and a Grabber in everything from 410 to 12. All work great and are easily adjustable. Get the latest Lyman Shotshell manual, pick a load for the empties you have, then get bar and powder bushings and load on. I liked Herco for the 20 gauge.
 
Just keep in mind that there's not much money to be saved on 12 gauge. But for 20 gauge there's definitely a little more wiggle room.

I'll completely disagree. I only have about 350,000 rounds through 12 and 20, but you can save well over $2.00/box of the basic target loads. The key is to buy in bulk - that means powder in 8# jugs, primers by the sleeve of 5,000 and wads by the case of 5,000. Using reclaimed shot will drop that price another $1/box. I can reload either for right at $3.50/box.

My MEC Jrs run great, you WILL want the auto primer feed if it doesn't come it - that speeds things up 25%. I would also recommend the EZ-Pack; place the loaded rounds in there as you go and after a box, slip it over the pack, upend and close the flap.

Want to save even more money start reloading 3/4 oz for both 12 and 20. You'll need to bump up your powder about 1 grain over the listed 7/8oz.

BTW, stick with good target hulls from Remington in 12 and 20 (Gun Clubs, STS, etc.) or Win AA in 28 and 410. Stay FAR away from Win Universals or Super Speeds. With the ones I mentioned you should easily get 10+ reloads. Use clone wads from ClayBuster or Downrange over the ridiculous OEM wads and the same for primers. Nobel, Fiocchi, Cheddite are much less than Win or Rem or Fed primers and do an equal job.
 
Want to save even more money start reloading 3/4 oz for both 12 and 20.

We've been loading 7/8 oz for 20 gauge and 1 oz for 12 gauge.
How big a difference can you tell in the 3/4 oz loads? From a cost standpoint obviously less shot equals more money saved per round, but how about performance? Can you tell a big difference on clays or birds with 3/4 oz?
 
When I was shooting competitive skeet in the 1990s, my 20 gauge (7/8 oz) and 28 gauge (3/4 oz) averages were better than my 12 gauge (1 and 1-1/8 oz) averages.

In fact, towards then end of my competitive shooting, I shot 20 gauge in the 12 gauge events.

7/8 oz and 3/4 oz 12 gauge loads were either non-existant or very hard to find in those days.

At least for me, the lower recoil and the heavier tubed barrels in 20 and 28 gauge more than offset the affects of additional shot of the 12 gauge.

The top shooters of the day still shot 12 gauge in the 12 gauge events. At their level of shooting, they could not give up anything.
 
I have been shooting one ounce in twelve gauge at 16 to 22 yards and my average has gone up, 48, 47, 49 the past three weeks in league.
 
Can you tell a big difference on clays or birds with 3/4 oz?

You can on your shoulder but not on the targets. I shoot 5-stand, sporting and FITASC using 3/4 in both 12 and 20. Now, I need to run one choke tighter than I would with a 1 oz load because I want the center density, but they will smack them hard when you do your part. So if you normally use an IC on 5-stand, put in a LM.

1oz gets you 400 loads per bag; 3/4 oz gets you 533 - that's over 5 more boxes of reloads. For me, that an extra round of sporting clays.
 
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