Should be simple

[Eutycus]

I need to take off the barrel stud from the bottom of a Stevens 15A .22 barrel. Any simple trick to taking it off? A pair of vice grips should back it out easily. But from my experience with vice grip pliers they will scratch up the surface and leave "teeth marks". Wrap in leather or a n old inner tube maybe?

 

[himfeld]

That's what I would try. Maybe a little penetrating oil too.

 

[Eutycus]

That's what I would try. Maybe a little penetrating oil too.

But still use the vice grips?

 

[himfeld]

But still use the vice grips?

Yes. As long as your protect the steel, should not cause damage.

 

[Eutycus]

I am no gunsmith but I've seen what vice grips will do. But then Stevens did use some pretty good metal. It will require a little touch up cold blueing.

 

[dfariswheel]

A safer method is to use some brass or copper sheet in the Vise-Grip jaws.
This allows a very tight clamp without any damage.

 

[Blue68f100]

If you have a drill chuck, use it to grip it. Use the key to tighten it up real good. I've even used the jaws in my lathe to hold things. I have collets used in my lathe and mill that I use from time to time. Vice grips/ pipe wrench they all work but you must protect against damage.

 

[a5werkes]

Gunsmith is derived from the Latin word for "patience".......
A few minutes to construct a non-marring tool or use a polymer gripped pliers is worth the effort.
Use the drill bits to assist in molding and compressing the leather into the host vise grip jaws. The vise grips are far superior to any of the polymer inserts in pliers. I have trialed them all.

Just kidding about the Latin, not the patience though.

 

[WestKentucky]

I have a rifle with that setup and I could never get it to turn. I was putting more force on it than I should have and was concerned about bending the barrel or causing damage to the lug. It’s almost like it’s pressed in like a bearing race or something along those lines. Be careful with it.

 

[a5werkes]

I've even used the jaws in my lathe to hold things. I

I just deposited that idea in my data base. Thanks.

 

[Eutycus]

A safer method is to use some brass or copper sheet in the Vise-Grip jaws.
This allows a very tight clamp without any damage.

Getting an idea. An empty .44 magnum shell should just fit that stud. Especially if it's cut in half lenght ways.

 

[Eutycus]

I have a rifle with that setup and I could never get it to turn. I was putting more force on it than I should have and was concerned about bending the barrel or causing damage to the lug. It’s almost like it’s pressed in like a bearing race or something along those lines. Be careful with it.

This lug or stud should come off fairly easy. I think I had it off once before some years ago. (fuzzy memory)Notice the bluing is rubbed off.

 

[BBBBill]

To avoid crushing the lug/stud put a screw in the hole.

 

[jmorris]

What is the diameter?

That looks like a job for the right sized set collar to me.

Clamp it on the part you don't want malled then proceed to mess up it's OD, instead of your gun part.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Wood blocks? Find dia,drill, band saw in half, resin & put in vise?

 

[PRD1]

I have approached the same problem in a different way: I hacksaw or file a slot across the stud and use an appropriate-sized screwdriver to remove and replace the stud. It is not necessary to make the slot deeper than about 1/8", and the slot should be oriented across the length of the barreled action, because the stud also serves as the 'recoil lug' in the assembled rifle. In disassembly and re-assembly, there will be no unsightly 'grab' marks left on the stud, and cold blue will leave it appearing as if it was made that way. It will also be easy to remove and replace in future, if needed.

PRD1 - mhb - MIke

 

[Eutycus]

I want you thank several of you, y'all have given me some very good ideas.

 

[Eutycus]

It came off. With the help of a pair of vice grips and 2 pieces brass from a .44 shell.And an idea from y'all. Thanks.