Should I case lube pistol brass?

[mugsie]

I thought I read somewhere that it's easier on ourselves and dies if we case lubed the pistol brass. 1) would it help to apply case lube to pistol brass 2) which case lube would one recommend (I can see the threads now!) & 3) what is the procedure when using a progressive so I don't have to handle the brass several times? Fire away guys!

 

[Scooter72]

If you have carbide dies then there is no need for case lube. I have never lubed cases.

 

[Chris Rhines]

1.) Yes.
2.) Hornady One-Shot.
3.) Take about 100 clean cases and place in a bucket. Spray One-Shot liberally into bucket while agitating cases for better coverage. Allow lube to dry for 5-10 minutes. Empty bucket into case feeder.

- Chris

 

[Hazzard]

I don't see much advantage in it for straight walled pistol. I tumble my brass and it goes through the resizer with very little effort in my Lee carbide dies. If you wnt a good lube, try RCBS case lube-2. It won't harm primers or powder, so if you want to use it on a progressive you won't have to worry about case lube contamination.

 

[.38 Special]

I like One-Shot if forced to use non-carbide dies.

Which is never, anymore, because carbide really is that much better. I wouldn't dream of using plain dies in a progressive press and, despite a few counter opinions, have never seen the need to lube cases for use in carbide dies.

 

[fecmech]

I use the Hornady one shot lightly on my cases. I use carbide dies and a progressive press. The reason is the effort to pull the press handle is less with the lube than without, most notable on 9mm cases. I never used to use lube but now do it all the time.

 

[Steve C]

I like the Dillon spray lube in the pump bottle for cases that are more difficult to size like the Starline .41 mag. They're a thicker case and are stiffer than those manufactured by Remington or Winchester. The lube is dissolved in an alcohol that evaporates after spraying. I only give the cases a very light application before running them through a carbide die. It does make the sizing much easier and the cases come out without any scratches.

 

[kansas45]

I like to use case lube on every 5th casing when I first get a new set of carbide die's. I know it isnt necessary, but it seems to me that it takes a few round's to break in a new set. I do this for about 200 round's then clean the die's with brake clean, use the same lube pattern for 300 round's, clean again then I don't use any more lube.

 

[.38 Special]

http://leo.stcloudstate.edu/punct/apostrophe.html

 

[benedict1]

.38 Special--

Subtle, like an anvil--

 

[mugsie]

A little update

Thanks for the info. I'm using a Dillon 550B with Dillon dies. The depriming / sizing die is carbide. After spraying (lubing) the cases, can I simply place them into the press, deprime size reprime etc all in one step as I do now or must I remove them, clean, and then start over?

 

[Ben Shepherd]

I dump a bunch out on a tray and put a light dose of one shot on them. Then into the casefeeder they go. Just makes things easier.

And when you are running a dillon 650 for a few hours solid it REALLY makes a difference on arm fatigue.

For necked cases I prefer the dillon lube. But the same procedure applies.

Over time, lubing DOES make a difference on the amount of press wear.

 

[highlander 5]

lubeing pistol cases

Ah yes lubeing I remember it well. Don't know how old most of you are but I remember having to lube cases couldn't afford carbide die set. Back in the 70's the only lubes were like STP,messy and almost impossible to remove. I took mine into work and used a hot tank and still had a bitch of a time getting the stuff off. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
After that I saved up and bought a set of carbide dies they were expensive but what a life saver. IMHO don't lube cases your just makeing more work for yourself

 

[JDGray]

I lube my 9mm brass with Lee lube & rubbing alchol, mixed in a spray bottle, per Lees instructions. Way easier on the arm, and press

 

[benedict1]

Same here--a tube of Lee Lube goes a long way when diluted with alcohol.

I dump the cases in a plastic bag --about 150-200--give them 3-4 squirts of lube mixture and shake. Dump out on cardboard or newspaper and let dry ~10 min.

They resize much easier, even though with tungsten carbide dies it is not necessary.

 

[.38 Special]

Hmm. I've got over 200,000 rounds out of my Dillon so far and have never lubed a single case. I'm not arguing that folks who lube shouldn't, but it does seem like the press is lasting pretty well...

Personally, my first set of carbide dies was a happy day. I think dealing with case lube is a real PITA, even the "easy" ones like one-shot. I'd rather put a little more effort into the press lever. But each to his own, eh?

 

[Ben Shepherd]

38 Special, you're right, to each his own.

But I'll take that little $7.00 can of one-shot when I'm in the loading room for the whole snowy sunday.

My arm's not as sore as yours!!

 

[Primersinmyshoe]

I reload on a Dillon 650 and started using Hornady One Shot when I added the Lee Factory Crimp Die. That die added more handle pressure. I dump a bunch of 45acp cases into the bottom of a primer case box (5000 count) and give the cases a little spray, shake them and stir them around, and give them one more spray. Then it's into the case feeder.

 

[.38 Special]

Well, Ben, I'll admit to rarely reloading more than a thousand rounds at a time. Were I to spend an entire day at the press I'd probably be looking for anything to ease the pain!

 

[RustyFN]

I haven't reloaded yet but have my equipment on order from Midway. I am buying a Lee classic turret press. I have read in other threads where some people will add some Nu-Finish car polish to the walnut media in the tumbler. I tried this to some of the cases I cleaned and they came out a lot slicker than the others. I was wondering if you think this would have the same effect as using case lube?
Rusty

 

[fecmech]

Rusty--I use Nufinish to tumble my brass but adding a light spray of One Shot makes the cases size easier. It also makes them slightly less shiney. The only place it makes sense to me is on progressives when loading lots of ammo.
I shoot 99% cast in my handguns using hard lubes such as Magma & Rooster labs and only tumble brass after 2 or 3 loadings. The untumbled brass has a slight film on it from the bullet lube and sizes just as easily as one shot.

 

[benedict1]

Polishing can actually increase resistance--carbide dies may gall the brass a bit. The burnt powder carbon residue, traces of oil, etc. on fired cases actually 'lube' the brass naturally. Given the extreme hardness of Tungsten Carbide there is nothing on the cases that would ever affect your dies.

See above--I use Lee Lube as noted. Hornady One Shot works good but has an odor I am sensitive too.

One caution--when you clean brass do not use any polish with ammonia--it will leach copper out of the brass and over time make it brittle promoting case failure.

 

[THE DOC 44]

Case lube

If I am using steel dies then for the past 26yrs. I have used R.C.B.S case lube it works for me . You Yanks make damn good guns and reloading kit , it;s a pity we let our rifle and pistol makers go to the wall , but then you don't miss it 'till it's gone . However thanks to the genius who invented carbide dies , if only for keeping my hands cleaner .

 

[snuffy]

Quote;"I don't see much advantage in it for straight walled pistol. I tumble my brass and it goes through the resizer with very little effort in my Lee carbide dies. If you wnt a good lube, try RCBS case lube-2. It won't harm primers or powder, so if you want to use it on a progressive you won't have to worry about case lube contamination."quote

Wrong! RCBS case lube 2 says right on the bottle "NOTE Too much lube may destroy powder and primers. Wipe cases clean after sizeing".

On the other hand, RCBS case slick spray lube does NOT affect primers or powder. If you insist on lubing straight walled pistol cases, the case slik spray would work great. I use it when I'm loading .223 on my dillon 650.

 

[mugsie]

I lubed!

OK guys - I tried lubing the 9mm and it was infinately easier. The press had virtually no effort required to size the cases. What a tremendous difference it made. I will lube all my straight wall cases from now on! Incidently, I found this great site for making lube, cleaning products etc. It's http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
I purchased the lanolin at a health food store for $4.75 and the alcohol (91%) for about a dollar. I mixed 4:1 and sprayed the cases. Not only does the entire process progress so much easier, but my bullets are sooo soft now!
In reality, the amount of lube I made should last for years and it's a small fraction of what the Lee, Hornady, Dillon etc are charging and I'm sure it's the same stuff. Thanks for all the advice. Last question - after loading, do you tumble the ammo again to remove the lube or just plop it in a gun and shoot it?
Thanks again....