Shrouded Extractors
- Thread starter Cokeman
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Twiki357
Member
I can’t list any specific models, especially the newer models.
In general, for all frame sizes, any of the older (20 year+) models in a magnum caliber had a shrouded extractor rod. That’s “in general” as there are always exceptions in both directions.
If you want to invest in a copy of the “Standard Catalogue of Smith and Wesson” you could probably ID them after a few weeks of reading.
In general, for all frame sizes, any of the older (20 year+) models in a magnum caliber had a shrouded extractor rod. That’s “in general” as there are always exceptions in both directions.
If you want to invest in a copy of the “Standard Catalogue of Smith and Wesson” you could probably ID them after a few weeks of reading.
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BCRider
Member
Cokeman, it's not a model by model thing. It varies with age and type of barrel. The models with the pencil barrels tended to be non shrouded. Those models with straight heavier wall barrels and the top rib tending to have shrouded barrels. So MOST early model 10's with pencil barrels will be unshrouded. But Model 14's of the same age that tended to come with the heavier barrels with top ribs will have shrouds. But newer Model 10's also have top rib/shrouds as well.
Then you get into the models which have the full length shrouds vs half shrouds. Again examples of model numbers can be found with either barrel so it likely comes down to what the "dash" number after the model number is. And that would be one helluva list to compile.
I can say for sure that the model 14 and model 19 and model 66 that I have all use half shrouded barrels. But only for those dash numbers.
If you're trying to nail this down before you go shopping I'd suggest that the best option is to ask for pictures or specifically ask the vendor if it has a half or full shroud barrel.
Then you get into the models which have the full length shrouds vs half shrouds. Again examples of model numbers can be found with either barrel so it likely comes down to what the "dash" number after the model number is. And that would be one helluva list to compile.
I can say for sure that the model 14 and model 19 and model 66 that I have all use half shrouded barrels. But only for those dash numbers.
If you're trying to nail this down before you go shopping I'd suggest that the best option is to ask for pictures or specifically ask the vendor if it has a half or full shroud barrel.
I was hoping for something like a 637 with a shrouded rod. The 337 is hard to find because it's discontinued and the 60 has a bit longer of a barrel. The 60 is probably the best bet though because it's still being made. I've never had a revolver and am trying to learn about the S&W models along with some others.
Panzerschwein
member
+1
I find S&W's current website a bit difficult to navigate. Here are S&W's current revolvers; then you've got to go to the drop down menu for "frame size" and choose the J-frames, entitled "Small (J)":
https://www.smith-wesson.com/revolvers
Then you've got to go to the bottom somewhere on the page and choose "show more products" to show all 46 current J-frame models. From there, study the photos, all the while deciding if a fully shrouded extractor rod is really necessary; and if an exposed hammer is really necessary; along with barrel length, caliber, finish/color, frame material, price, integral lock system or not; and whether you still want a J-frame vs. another larger frame size.
At a glance, currently, there are the 360 and 351 models to add to the Model 60 having a hammer, more or less fully shrouded extractor rod, and being a J-frame.
https://www.smith-wesson.com/revolvers
Then you've got to go to the bottom somewhere on the page and choose "show more products" to show all 46 current J-frame models. From there, study the photos, all the while deciding if a fully shrouded extractor rod is really necessary; and if an exposed hammer is really necessary; along with barrel length, caliber, finish/color, frame material, price, integral lock system or not; and whether you still want a J-frame vs. another larger frame size.
At a glance, currently, there are the 360 and 351 models to add to the Model 60 having a hammer, more or less fully shrouded extractor rod, and being a J-frame.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy
You seem to be concentrating on J frames. Small frame revolvers that have a five shot capacity when chembered for 38 Special or 357 Magnum.
Since you say you have never had a revolver before, may I humbly suggest for your first revolver you buy a classic K frame revolver. Larger than a J frame, six shots when chambered for 38 Special or 357 Magnum.
I suggest for your first revolver you find a Model 10, the classic six shot 38 Special revolver. Blue finish, 38 Special, and fixed sights, still manufactured after more than 100 years. (I'm counting the 38 Military & Police models in that statistic). If you want adjustable sights, a model 67 is a great Stainless 38 Special revolver. If you want 357 Magnum, may I suggest a Model 66 or a Model 686. Both are stainless. The 66 is a K frame revolver, the 686 is slightly larger and more rugged. It is available as a seven shot revolver too.
May I also suggest you not buy a 357 Magnum J frame revolver as your first revolver. 357 Magnum is quite a handfull in a small revolver. Best to wait until you have some experience with revolvers before you go down that road. If you buy a 357 Magnum J frame as your first revolver, you may be disappointed.
You seem to be concentrating on J frames. Small frame revolvers that have a five shot capacity when chembered for 38 Special or 357 Magnum.
Since you say you have never had a revolver before, may I humbly suggest for your first revolver you buy a classic K frame revolver. Larger than a J frame, six shots when chambered for 38 Special or 357 Magnum.
I suggest for your first revolver you find a Model 10, the classic six shot 38 Special revolver. Blue finish, 38 Special, and fixed sights, still manufactured after more than 100 years. (I'm counting the 38 Military & Police models in that statistic). If you want adjustable sights, a model 67 is a great Stainless 38 Special revolver. If you want 357 Magnum, may I suggest a Model 66 or a Model 686. Both are stainless. The 66 is a K frame revolver, the 686 is slightly larger and more rugged. It is available as a seven shot revolver too.
May I also suggest you not buy a 357 Magnum J frame revolver as your first revolver. 357 Magnum is quite a handfull in a small revolver. Best to wait until you have some experience with revolvers before you go down that road. If you buy a 357 Magnum J frame as your first revolver, you may be disappointed.
I'm looking at J frames because I might carry it. I wouldn't mind a 66 or 686 though. I also wouldn't rule out a 10. I'd rather have a .38 if it's a J frame. I have shot lots of revolvers, just never bought one. I've even shot .357 J frames so I know what they are like. I'm doing my research right now but haven't decided on anything specific.
gotboostvr
Member
They currently make a snub nosed variant M66. With the right grips it's manageable with heavy loads and still carries well. Plus you get 6 shots, nice sights, a better trigger and your shrouded ejector rod.
gotboostvr
Member
Love those Arhends on your 3" M66!
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Those are K frames. They are bigger than the J frames you were asking about. You can tell by looking at the cylinder flutes that they are six shooters, not five shooters.
Here is a photo showing the difference in size between a K frame and a J frame snub nosed revolver. The revolver at the top of the photo is an old 38 M&P with a 2" barrel, built on the K frame. The revolver at the bottom of the photo is a Model 36, built on the J frame. You can clearly see the difference in frame sizes. Although these are old revolvers, the difference in frame sizes is the same with the modern S&W revolvers.
As I said before, I recommend a K frame Smith for your first revolver, rather than a J frame. Yes, the J frame is more easily concealed, but if you are going to be shooting 357 Magnums, the K frame is much more shooter friendly.
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