Sig p220 jamming

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1911JMB

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My sig p220 has been totaly reliable. That is, until last sunday when I took it to the range and found out it jams every 30 shots or so when using hollow points. Is this typical, or do I need to fix something?
 
There are hollow points, and then there are hollow points. The cops in my town carry P220s in .45 ACP, and use Winchester SXTs (I think those are the correct letters) with no problems.
My little SIG P232 dislikes Federal Hydra-shoks - many failures to chamber. So I use Gold Dots.
JT
 
Jams how? FTE's & double feeds?

If that is the case could be crud under your extractor and/or a weak or broken extractor.

My P-220 was bought used, oh about 3 years ago and was well used. It ran fine for me the first year I had it then I started to get FTE's and double feeds with the occassional stove pipe. Bought and installed a new extractor and no problems at all.

I was getting the malfunctions using FMJ. I carry Hydra-Shoks on duty and they function just fine.
 
Everyone's right. If it's a failure to extract, I'd give the bolt face and extractor a good scrubbing first. Make sure you get behind the extractor finger that grabs the rim of the case. A little bit of crud back there will cause the extractor to slip off during extraction. Then I'd check if the problem is limited to a particular type of ammo, especially if it's a failure to feed. How old are your magazines? Is there any pattern of the failure happening with one or two rounds left in the mag?

Whatever you do, resist the urge to disassemble the bolt. It comes apart much easier than it goes back together.
 
Specificaly, the bullets were winchesters, what exact type I don't know, but they were 185 grains, and were very flat. The bullets would get stuck on the barrel ramp, although never while manualy cycling it. My magazines are all sig factory marked, new in the wrapper when I bought them about 6 weeks ago.
 
What's the gun's manufacture date?

If it's an older gun, it might be a weak recoil spring, so that the slide has inadequate forward energy to chamber a round that has a bullet contour that wants to snag a bit. Especially if the gun was dirty or hadn't recently been lubed.
 
I don't know exactly how old it is, but I bought it used for $400. It definitly was shot a lot before I got it, so later today I'll get a new recoil spring. I never got an owners manual, so I've got two questions, how long is a P220 recoil spring good for, and should I use something besides hoppe's oil and 3in1 oil for lubricant?
 
I don't know exactly how old it is, but I bought it used for $400. It definitly was shot a lot before I got it, so later today I'll get a new recoil spring. I never got an owners manual, so I've got two questions, how long is a P220 recoil spring good for, and should I use something besides hoppe's oil and 3in1 oil for lubricant?



Springs are cheap, I replace mine at around 3000 rounds. Sig factory springs are some of the best, better than even Wolff springs in my opinion. Does your recoil spring have a small amount of green paint on it? What is your serial number?
 
Rinspeed

There is a bit of green on the spring, and the serial number is G 302 421
 
I've found the 220 to be spring sensitive.

Replace the recoil and magazine springs, and all should be well.
 
First, clean as advised. But be sure that you aren't using 185 grain SWC target loads. Those don't feed well in many .45's, and bullet shape is only one issue. They are also loaded too light to operate many pistols. If the gun works with full loads, that was your problem.

My .45 autos were all Colts, six, I think in all, and NONE fed those target loads worth a dang. They all worked with everything else, though, except for the old Norma 230 grain JHP, which had too wide a point. But that was many years ago. Winchester used to load a 210 grain lead target round, and it fed MUCH better. But it has been discontinued for a long time.

Lone Star
 
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