Sig P226 trigger bar spring woes

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Thermactor

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I bought a NIB Sig Sauer P226 .40 S&W a while ago. The first time I took it out and shot it, after about 20 rounds the trigger stopped resetting and would simply go all the way back in the housing without firing, effectively rendering the firearm inoperable.
When I got home I took off the grip and saw that the trigger bar spring had disconnected from the trigger bar itself. The end that came undone is a U-shaped piece that goes into a notched carrier that is attached to the trigger. I put the spring back on and took the gun to four more range trips without incident.

The last time I went out shooting, however, it came off once again, so this tells me that something is wrong beyond simple chance. I feel like I really can't trust this gun, which really sucks because it was friggin expensive. And when it runs, it runs fantastic and I'm more accurate with it than any other gun.

A clue might be that the last time it failed, I had removed a .22 conversion slide and reinserted the 40 S&W slide. It fired about three shots before it failed.
Any ideas? I don't want to send it to the manufacturer because the shipping would be an incredible hassle.

This gun is the newest model, milled in the US and has an accessory rail, and it came with the E2 wraparound toolless factory grips and newest style trigger bar spring.
 
Assuming it's still under warranty, have you confirmed that Sig won't cover the shipping? I've sent a couple of Springfields back for warranty repair and they covered all shipping costs.
 
I haven't reached out to Sig yet. I would assume that its under warranty, I thought that they have lifetime warranties to the original purchaser.

edit; yep - just checked. They require me to pay shipping to and from them.
For the lifetime of the original purchaser, SIG SAUER agrees to correct any defect in the firearm for the original purchaser by repair, adjustment or replacement, at SIG SAUER' option, with the same or comparable quality components (or by replacing the firearms at SIG SAUER' option); provided, however, that the firearm is returned unloaded and freight prepaid to SIG SAUER at 18 Industrial Drive, Exeter, NH 03833.
 
BS!

There is an 'implied warranty' in almost every state that a new or almost new product has to work as it should when you buy it.

Call them on the phone tomorrow, tell them the problem, and whine like a whipped dog until they send you a call tag to send it in free to make it work like what you paid for new!

They really have no other choice.

rc
 
I called them and they gave me two options,
1) ship it to them at my expense (the gun is over a year old, they pay for shipping before 1 year has passed since purchase)
2) send me a replacement trigger bar and spring and see if that solves the issue.

I opted for the latter. Now I gotta find out the R&R procedure on the trigger bar.
http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/schematics/sig-P226.gif
According to this expanded diagram I can clearly see that a pin needs to be driven out to disconnect the trigger and decocker from the frame, so from there I don't know if that'll give me enough wiggle room to undo the trigger from the trigger bar.

Whatever happens, I will end up posting a follow-up in this thread. I hate it when I search for a problem, find a thread that matches my issue exactly, and then the original poster disappears without saying whether xyz procedure solved the issue.
 
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It is darn hard to install those E2 grips without knocking a spring loose on one or both sides unless you use a little assistance. Cut strips out of a note card and place them over the springs to hold them in place and let the grip slide over them, then remove the strips once the grip is in position.

The trigger bar spring can get knocked loose so that the tip of the hook engages the trigger bar rather than the crook. Eventually it can work its way off the bar entirely. Your description of the second event makes me think that is what happened since removing the slide causes the trigger bar to rise much more than in normal operation.
 
Field Tester, while the situation is unfortunate, it does seem that Sig is willing to make it right.

Miked7762, thanks for the note. So I may have reinstalled those grips incorrectly when I first put the spring back on.
 
When you have the grip off, check for rubbing on the inside of the grip. There have been a few issues from other posters on other sites where the grip itself interferes with the spring, eventually causing it to come free of its resting place. If that is the case a quick stoning on the inside of the grip will solve your problem.
 
I tried installing the new stuff today. The stuff they sent me doesn't fit. What a freaking nightmare.
I'll send them the partially disassembled pistol and ask them to make it right.
 
Don't make this any harder on yourself, or more annoying, than it has to be.

Yes, SIG pistols are pretty spring & grip dependent. Using the wrong grips won't help support the trigger bar spring, and even simply removing and reinstalling them may allow the potential for some folks to unknowingly dislodge a trigger bar spring.

It's not impossible for a trigger bar, or a wire spring, to be produced with an unrecognized defect, either.

As a SIG pistol armorer for their Classic models, I'd get out my manual and inspect my own gun, and replace the spring and/or trigger bar, if needed.

If I weren't a SIG pistol armorer, I'd call SIG customer service and have them inspect the gun and make the necessary corrections or repairs.

I'd whine until they offered to pay for the shipping both ways. ;)
 
Here are some more details I hope will prove helpful to those who have issues. I'm still hunting for the root cause of the issue.

Old_TBar_IP.jpg
Here's how it looks when all is nominally functional, with the original parts. Right. Trigger bar spring is in place, trigger bar is positioned correctly.

TBar_Failure.jpg
During my ownership of the gun, something caused the spring end to come off of the notch.
The failure was noticed both times shortly after the slide was reassembled.
1st time was when I first bought the gun and had the slide off for the first time, then took it to the range and it failed in less than 50 rounds.
I took off the grip, reattached the trigger bar spring at the trigger bar notch, and made a few more range trips.
In that time frame, I also purchased a 22LR conversion slide kit and used it during the trips as well, so there were a number of times the slides were removed and replaced.
The 2nd time the trigger bar spring fell off the notch, it was toward the end of a range session after switching from the 22LR kit back to the 40 S&W config.

The top blade of the trigger bar that protrudes upward from the frame interferes with the base of the slide when the slide is being removed and replaced. So there is an allowance for downward movement of the trigger bar to facilitate the installation and removal of the slide. The slide has a notch inbuilt that removes the interference and the spring tension on the trigger bar brings it back up to its normal operating level, where the trigger bar can engage the sear and hammer and whatever the heck else it does.

I suspect that this movement got the spring out of its nesting position on the notch each time and led to its detachment from the notch after being fired, both times the failures occurred.


This gun is about a year and a half old. I registered it with Sig Sauer for warranty purposes. I bought it brand new. I paid over $1,000 for it. (I expected quality..)



226_228_TBars.jpg
Here is a comparison picture of the P226's original trigger bar with the trigger bar from an M11A1 (Sig's P228-P229 hybrid something or another)
The M11A1 uses the same trigger bar as the one that originally came with the P226. The part numbers on the bars match. No problems with the M11 either.. yet.

I contacted Sig, as I mentioned before, and they sent a new trigger bar spring (identical to the old one) and a new trigger bar, in lieu of having me pay to send them the gun.

The trigger bar they sent has UPC Code 798681473953, "TRIGGER-BAR-1", "TRIGGER BAR, 226, 229, DA/SA, UNIVERSAL FRAME"

TBar_Differences.jpg

It is the part on the TOP with the number 595 stamped on it.

TBar_Notches.jpg

The area I was most focused on was the size of the notch that the trigger bar spring nested into. As you can see, the notch on the new trigger bar is much more generously sized.
I noticed that the old trigger bar looked like it had been ground down in the notch area after it had been stamped. Perhaps it was ground too much, causing the failures, or perhaps the notch simply isn't deep enough for the spring to maintain purchase through all modes of function including firing and disassembly. I don't know, I am not an armorer.

I set out to try to install the new trigger bar. I'm talking hours of serious frustration here. It required extensive disassembly of the gun to 'fit' or, rather, jam into place. The breech block, trigger, hammer, mainspring, sear, etc. All of it. And it did not seem right at all. It took a lot of cursing and fiddling and maneuvering to get it to finally get into place, even with the whole gun stripped apart.

When it finally came back together, this is how it looked.

New_TBar_IP.jpg

I put the mainspring and its strut back on, and... the trigger won't engage properly. I could manually half-cock the gun and the trigger would start to engage the hammer, then when the trigger is fully pressed the trigger bar gets knocked out of place and disengages from the hammer completely.

New_Tbar_OOP.jpg

I thought that I had screwed up installing the mainspring strut or other parts of the gun, so I chased my tail on that end for maybe four more hours before I simply gave up and put the gun away. I went to put the slide back on, and then discovered that the slide wouldn't even go on. The trigger bar's protruding blade interfered with the fit as before, but there wasn't enough movement in the trigger bar housing area to allow the blade to recess completely to let the back of the slide through.

It's clear to me now that the new trigger bar does not fit and definitely will not function at all without extensive fitting.
I wasn't expecting to do any gunsmithing on this pistol for something like a trigger bar. I certainly wasn't warned by customer service. But hey, they would have preferred for me to pay to ship the gun to them.


So I made the post in this thread two weeks ago about sending it back to Sig and asking them to make it right.

I haven't contacted Sig yet.

Last night I went after the gun again. I took it back apart, wrestled the new trigger bar out, and put the old trigger bar back in, albeit with the new trigger bar spring that they sent. Reassembled and dry-fire function checks perfect. Everything is nice and tight. The gun will work like a dream.
Until I go to the range, fire 1-50 rounds, or R&R the slide, or do anything that upsets the trigger bar spring enough to kick it off its perch on the trigger bar again.

Should I simply enlarge the notch on the original trigger bar to give the spring a more robust range of engagement?
 
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When you bought the gun brand new and it failed you, that would have been the second it would have been sent back to sig if it were mine. That being said, you have spent over a month without the gun when it could have been at the Sig repair center being fixed by a competent gunsmith. Don't seem like you are saving time or money by doing it yourself, so send the gun to them and let them fix it like you should have done a year and a half ago when it failed the first time. I would not buy a brand new car and replace the engine after 100 miles because it was a hassle to take it back to the dealer.
 
Send the gun to SIG and let a tech install the replacement trigger bar & spring.

Lack of familiarity with proper replacement isn't something to be solved by "enlarging" and otherwise fiddling with factory parts.
Right, if the trigger bar they sent is to be used it would doubtless need to be ground down until the proper fitment was achieved. There's a finesse to it that I don't have.
I don't have the time right now to send the gun to SIG but I'll follow up in about a month when I will be more free to wait on them to play with it and send it back.
 
When I went through the armorer class for the Classic SIG pistols (no plastic models or their then-new second attempt at the 1911's), there was no "fitting" involved in making trigger bars fit and work.

Granted, disassembling, replacing parts and reassembling frames isn't quite as simple or as easy as it is with some other designs. ;)

Let them handle it and send you back a properly functioning pistol.
 
No problems to report on a range visit using both 40 S&W and 22LR slides. Everything functioned perfectly trigger wise.

Maybe all it needs is the new spring that I installed on the old trigger bar when I reassemvled the gun. I will keep the thread updated since I don't shoot often.
 
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