Silver Bear 9mm ammo?

[peacebutready]

Good Day All,

I noticed recently there is this steel-cased ammo named Silver Bear. It has zinc-covered steel casing. I don't want to hurt my CZ. Anyone know if it is safer than the other steel cased stuff?

I'm also fretting over the bullet of those being a copper jacket over a steel jacket before the lead. I don't know how rough it is on barrels.

 

[1stmarine]

Cheaper? yes. Better? no.
steel = junk.
reload if you have to.

 

[PabloJ]

Hornady is marketing iron cased ammo as steel match or something like that so it should not be that bad. Local gunsmith told me it is harder on extractor/ejector systems then brass cased stuff but I have no way to verify this as I do not like to shoot a lot and do not buy inexpensive coated iron cased ammo.

 

[Carter]

Steel cased ammo of any kind will not hurt a CZ, or any handgun worth the money you spent on it.

Its not the most accurate, but it goes bang and works for normal pistol ranges. I prefer to spend a bit more for winchester ranger fmj bulk. Can usually find it for a good price.


Silver bear can corrode easily if it gets wet though.

 

[weregunner]

I use the 115gr and 145gr., 9x19 ammo in my Ruger P95DCs and the rounds are accurate and cause on problems or damage.

 

[GregGry]

It will work fine. The steel being hard on extractors is a myth. It all started (IMHO) when people shot laquer coated wolf 223 ammo in a ar15 and then shot normal brass ammo through it without cleaning it. The end result was the brass would get stuck in the chamber and the extractor would either rip a chunk out of brass or the extractor would get beat up. Nowadays with wolf they don't use laquer ( I would imagine the same for brown bear) so its not an issue. It wasn't a issue with the steel being too hard.

My personal favorite .40 ammo is tulammo, it's clean burning and come with 180 grain bullets for less the. The 165 Winchester ammo. Steel cased and accurate as hell. Anyone who says wolf/brown bear/tulammo isn't accurate in a handgun is fooling themselves. You won't notice a difference inside 25 yards.

 

[Dogguy]

Surplus WWII steel-cased .45 ACP ammo was notorious for breaking/damaging extractors. Shooters were warned about its use by the shooting press back in the day. I doubt there's a lot of it still around today but the story persists. (I'm old. I remember this stuff.) Except today, all steel-cased ammo gets a bad rap. But today's steel-cased ammo is a lot different from the stuff used in WWII. So don't worry about using it in any gun of decent quality. The factory where the OP's CZ was made probably used steel-cased and steel-jacketed ammunition to test their firearms.

 

[mgmorden]

Most steel cased ammo won't really hurt your gun. It's a little harder on some parts but not enough to really worry about. Accuracy is usually average - nothing to write home about, but good enough to have fun on the range.

My personal hangup is that I reload, and so the cases are useless once fired. That alone makes them more expensive for me because I have to factor in the monetary cost of shooting ammo for which I cannot reclaim the brass.

YMMV.

 

[Onward Allusion]

I was shooting Silver Bear out of a few 59xx w/o any issues.

 

[bluetopper]

The ammo is fine and as accurate as any other. If it's cheaper, get it, shoot it and don't worry.

 

[1stmarine]

I have tried that.... 3 words... Steel worthless junk.
there is no STEEL MATCH. Those two words do not go together. If they were, you will see steel in every match firing line around the world but you don't.
The manufactures come up with schemes to make it look that it is good, some sort of tactical treat or something, some even believe it is actual match.
Cheaper.. yes. Any better...No.
Save the real brass x1 fired brass and sell it if you do not reload.

Have a calculator? These are the facts.


Hornady Steel is not cheaper...Lets pick up the .223 below that seems the only 'reasonably' priced and do the math...
A simple brass PPU match line will run for .36/round for a much better bullet. If you simply collect the brass you can sell 500 for $40 a once fired quality PPU. I would buy it from you.
A REAL match reload with the venerable SMK 69gr will run for .38/round. When I am done with the reloads I put them in the recycling bin and this is sold and recycled to make new brass and help the local youth leagues.
It is a win win situation.
Bottom line... Eastern folks pushed for steel case manufacturing to reduce cost. that is the only reason. Now marketing folks are trying to sell this like this is the latest and greatest. well it is not. Steel cannot produce the gas seal that brass can. I will never put brass through my LW and Hart barrels and actions.


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[Tcruse]

My view is that you should clean barrel when switching between steel, brass or aluminum. Some of the steel cased stuff uses cheaper power that leaves more residue. The Russian Bergen primers are sometimes harder and therefore give guns with modified strikers to make the trigger pull lighter fail. Of the russian I like Ruag precision ammo (CTD 8.38) and brown bear the best. Silver bear and Wolf is not common at local stores. Tula is ok but has hard primers. S&B, MFS 2000, and Herters/Blazer TNJ is on sale for $9.95 quite often. WWB 100 round box for $22-24 is always a good safe option.

Some of the small local factory reloads are good but not cheap and they seem to come and go. UsaAmmo seems to be having some problems as of late. CTD BVAC fmj seems not very good but hp is good. MBI seeks ok but not really cheap.

I suspect that many reload to solve the problem of getting the same ammo every time.

 

[1stmarine]

The dollar that you are saving in the steel you can make it back folded with the first reload or just simply selling the brass even if it is cheap.
If you like your guns feed them brass. Leave the metal stuff for ocassional plinkin in the woods and the mosins and the AKs.
Buy american.

 

[peacebutready]

Thanks

Thanks all for writing. Happy holidays.