Sinclair Stainless Priming Tool

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ravencon

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Has anyone used the Sinclair stainless priming tool?
http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=REPTSI&item=PT-2000&type=store

This is substantially more expensive than other hand priming tools. It certainly looks substantial. But, does it function more smoothly or with great ease than the competition?

I'm just setting up for reloading and I wouldn't be surprised if I find that hand priming aggravates my hand(s). So, I was wondering if down the road I might find the Sinclair to be easier to use during long priming sessions.
 
Well, it might be smooth, and it might be expensive, but it doesn't have a primer feed tray.

That's about 75% of the advantage of a hand priming tool.

Using primers "untouched by human hands" is good for the primers, and good for your hands!

Look to RCBS for either the Standard or Universal hand priming tool and you won't ever use anything else.

rcmodel
 
I have one (Works Great) but I’ve never used any others so I can’t make a comparison.
 
Well, I have one of these. I own, or have owned, Lee, Hornady, K&M, and tried a couple others. I can compare them for you.

This thing is an incredibly good gadget, if you are a person who believes in developing a "feel" for seating primers. It is smooth and the leverage is set so that feeling the primers hit bottom is a snap, particularly if one uniforms primer pockets. (the uniformed pockets let you push nearly the same distance with the lever each time).

It uses Lee shell holders and twist-locks the case in so that primers are seated dead straight--not cocked like some others will leave them. This is a quality tool, made for the man who wants uniformity and quality, not quantity.
 
I have one. They are great. I only use it for my 6PPC bench gun. It is too much money to spend and too slow for everday reloading. I know folks who prime their benchrest rounds with a Lee as far as that goes. It is a pretty, smooth, cool, neat tool, but not needed really.

I use my RCBS hand primer for everything else. It works great. I've primed 1000's of cases with it.
 
i've never really had an aversion to touching primers. i find it mildly amusing that in one thread, we're making some effort to avoid touching them, and in another we're saying the compound is nigh indestructible, impervious to water, acids, urine, and assorted malted beverages.
 
i think the big advantage to not touchig primers is staying away from the lead compounds in them. if my understanding is correct of primes anyway. not rendering them useless. please correct me if i am wrong. personally, i don't worry about it too much, i just wash my hands after handling them, used or new.
 
Well, let's look at the way primers are made (in short) and see if we can resolve some of this.

Primers are made by taking the dry ingredients and making a water-based dough out of the stuff. While it is wet, it is made into pellets, stuffed into the cup, and the anvil is applied. Then it is left to dry.

So... It is unlikely that dampening the primers will have a permanent effect on them, although it might change the burning characteristics, depending on how much water got in. Left to dry, they should ignite when called upon to do so.

Oil is another matter and that is the reason that people are cautioned against handling primers. Well, duh! Wash your hands, both before and after handling the primers. That alone will fix the problems.

The lead issue is mostly a red-herring. Most primers have a cover seal and may, in addition, have a shellac or plastic seal over that for water resistance. If they are handled reasably, the contents should not be a problem, although I have detected a little colored dust in primer box trays.
 
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There's a big difference finding something that will guarantee the primer will not go off, and something else that will affect how hard/hot/powerful it will be when it does go off.

"Killing" a primer is difficult; affecting its performance to a lesser degree is a lot easier.

Andy
 
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