Sling Swivel Stud Protrusion

[hutchinsonrd]

Just bought my first Remington 700. A 1969 BDL model chambered in .243 Winchester. Took it apart to clean it and noticed that the forend sling swivel stud protrudes above the wood and touches the barrel. Did Remington design it this way to act as a pressure point or should the stud be flush with the stock? Thanks.

 

[Tommygunn]

1969? I'm guessing; Remington did not equip the rifle with that stud at the factory, it was done by an earlier owner who perhaps got a bit enthusiastic, or possibly used a too-long stud.

I'd think the factory would possibly get it right in 1969.

As I said, I'm guessing.

 

[AlexanderA]

I would guess that a previous owner added the sling swivels and didn't pay attention to the depth of inletting for the forend nut (escutcheon). Knock the nut out and do it over again. Or, grind it down flush with the surface of the barrel channel.

 

[hutchinsonrd]

Thanks for the feedback. Didn’t seem right but never hand one apart.

 

[243winxb]

Bubba Gunsmithing

 

[mustanger98]

I would guess that a previous owner added the sling swivels and didn't pay attention to the depth of inletting for the forend nut (escutcheon). Knock the nut out and do it over again. Or, grind it down flush with the surface of the barrel channel.

That was my thought, too.

With the rifle in the stock and action screws torqued, can you slide a dollar bill under the barrel? If so, the barrel is still free-floating and unaffected. If the escutcheon does contact, grind it down.

 

[hutchinsonrd]

That was my thought, too.

With the rifle in the stock and action screws torqued, can you slide a dollar bill under the barrel? If so, the barrel is still free-floating and unaffected. If the escutcheon does contact, grind it down.

It does contact. Having trouble removing it as the nut turns when you turn the stud. Gunsmith said to wedge a piece of metal between the nut and the stock. Haven't tried that yet but hope it works.

 

[Offfhand]

The sling swivel is an after-market addition and I expect that it was once properly installed. Then Bubba got hold of if the rifle and decided to free-float the barrel by hogging out the barrel channel, thus exposing the swivel keeper nut. Look closely at the pics and notice how the channel was gouged out. Another Bubba Masterpiece.

 

[hutchinsonrd]

I think you're right about the barrel channel being hogged out to free float the barrel. The attached photos show where the rifle was bedded, which I don't think was factory. The depth from the top of the bedding compound to the stock is about the same distance the swivel nut protrudes out of the stock (see photo in original post).

However, from other stocks of similar vintage and design that I've seen on eBay I think the stud is from the factory. I'm gonna leave it but put a nylon washer on top and try to use it as a pressure point and to keep the nut from damaging the barrel. I handload so I'm hoping between a little upward pressure and a proper bullet and powder combination it'll shoot close to 1 MOA. Only bought it couple days ago so I haven't had a chance to take it to the range.

Remington 700 Bedding 2

• hutchinsonrd
• Mar 7, 2019

Remington 700 Bedding 1

• hutchinsonrd
• Mar 7, 2019

 

[243winxb]

Did Remington design it this way

No. They came with a pressure point in the front of the forearm. It applied about 9 pounds of up pressure on the barrel. Some skinny barrels shoot best with the up pressure. Some dont.

I would not want it touching the barrel or even close.

The bedding under the chamber is not to my liking, The recoil lug should only make contact on the back side.Imo.

The good part is its a 243 Win.

 

[hutchinsonrd]

Yeah, wish I could remove the swivel stud and nut but I can’t figure out how without doing damage. Not even enough room to wedge anything between the nut and stock. How were these suppose to come out anyways?

 

[243winxb]

Not sure. Maybe cut in half with a dremel tool, working in tne barrel channel.

But first, If wood is sealed, wet with a few drops of liquid wrench, let soak a day. Try to turn it.

 

[hutchinsonrd]

Fraid if I came close to it with a dremel they’ll be calling me Bubba.

 

[243winxb]

A spline on the cap, in the channel , would keep it from turning.

Drill out the screw part?

Cant see it well from here . Thats all my Bubba suggestions. Good luck.

 

[silicosys4]

You might start with small amounts of penetrating oil carefully applied, then take a dremel and (very ) carefully grind just enough of a flat into each side of the stud so you can get a channel lock on it with enough pressure to grip but not so much that you'd bend the stud. That might give you enough purchase to unscrew. The wood might take a few small dings depending on how but if its already been worked on, just smooth with sandpaper and seal. You could also take a dremel cutting wheel and cut some shallow notches, so you could use a screwdriver on it.

Edit: looking at it from the top down view, it does look like you have enough clearance between the top of the stud and the tip of the screw to use a dremel cutting wheel to make a notch on each side of the inside lip of the stud without cutting into the screw itself. Cut them to the appropriate depth and width for a screwdriver and then at least you have something to get a grip with without worrying about marring the wood as much.

 

[hutchinsonrd]

Thanks for the ideas gentlemen. Cutting the nut so as to use hold it with a flat head screwdriver sounds like something I would consider doing. But first gonna go the nylon pressure point route. If I can’t get it to group I’ll take more aggressive measures.

 

[hutchinsonrd]

You might start with small amounts of penetrating oil carefully applied, then take a dremel and (very ) carefully grind just enough of a flat into each side of the stud so you can get a channel lock on it with enough pressure to grip but not so much that you'd bend the stud. That might give you enough purchase to unscrew. The wood might take a few small dings depending on how but if its already been worked on, just smooth with sandpaper and seal. You could also take a dremel cutting wheel and cut some shallow notches, so you could use a screwdriver on it.

Edit: looking at it from the top down view, it does look like you have enough clearance between the top of the stud and the tip of the screw to use a dremel cutting wheel to make a notch on each side of the inside lip of the stud without cutting into the screw itself. Cut them to the appropriate depth and width for a screwdriver and then at least you have something to get a grip with without worrying about marring the wood as much.

I decided you were right, silicosys4, that "its already been worked on", so I got out the channel locks. Got as good a bite as I could, locked them down, and turned the stud. IT BROKE FREE EASY! However, take a look at the photo of the stud and nut. Do you see anything that doesn't look quite right? Think, "Bubba Gunsmithing." Hint (not that you guys need it): The other photo shows the rear stud.

 

[AlexanderA]

Bubba got the studs reversed! The wood screw one is supposed to go into the buttstock while the machine screw one is for the forend.

Now that you have the studs out, you can reinstall them properly. For the buttstock, I would epoxy some wooden toothpicks into the hole to give the screw stud some purchase. For the forend, you need to counterbore a little deeper for the escutcheon. It should be flush with the barrel channel.

 

[hutchinsonrd]

Bonus! The hole is actually a few thousands deeper than the nut, so the nut will sit flush. I replaced it with a new Uncle Mike’s nut that’s a hair smaller in diameter. Barrel free floats all the way to the bedded area!

 

[doubleh]

Thanks for the pictures. I needed a morning laugh. Some people should never be allowed to touch anything requiring mechanic knowledge.

 

[mustanger98]

How'd the wood screw thread into that machine-thread escutcheon?

 

[hutchinsonrd]

Wood screw bit into it a little. Damaged the threads on the escutcheon some. Machine screw will tread but there’s a bit of resistance at the half way point then easy rest of the way.

 

[hutchinsonrd]

Finally got time to work up a load. Rifle shoots well enough for me. Load is 75 gr. Hornady HP with IMR 4350 pushing it 3125 fps. Shots touching the black circle at 3, 4, and 7 o'clock are sight in shots. Five shot group are all inside the black circle. I called the flyer so I think it was me, but even if it wasn't I'm still quite pleased with the rifle's accuracy.

Thanks again, gentlemen, for all your help and suggestions. Glad this gun turned out to shoot well.