Sloppy cerakote job... how to patch it up?

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greenr18

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Ok so here's the in a nutshell description of my situation:

Bought RIA 1911A1 GI model

Despite I always use OCD-paranoid-levels of break-free on all my guns, it started to show bright orange rust spots

Decided to get it cerakoted and since I had jack for money, I looked around and found a place that does $125 with return shipping included on 1911s

Sent my 1911, took way longer than they said but thats fine whatever got it back today, went to the range and fired it, functioned fine, just as accurate despite barrel being coated yadda yadda

Took it down to wipe at least powder grit off and realized a bunch of parts were not cerakoted. Ok whatever. Then I noted a few parts had slivers of bare exposed steel. Nothing huge, like literally if you cut your finger nail and you had a crescent moon shaped little blotch is exactly how I'd describe these spots. They are on the barrel, inside the slide, and a there is one on recoil spring plug. There's also what appears to be a bit of a mass of like... a bubble around the rear sight that looks like the rear sight was never removed and cerakote was just sprayed over it and it massed around it from building up in the groove the sight goes into and bubbled upward...

I guess my questions are:

1: should I bother trying to talk to the guy who did the service at so low a price? He seems a little irked that I mentioned the magazine (I thought was included to be cerakoted in the service but I guess not) I had sent with it was not returned, though he said he'd ship it back, I don't really want to risk dealing with someone who's going to get pissy and thus probably cause more problems down the line.

2: If not, what can I do to cover these small bare metal spots? Should I use a blueing pen? Should I duracoat over it? I had a cerakote job done on a Browning Hi Power years ago that was way more thorough than this but cost almost 3x as much and never had to clean it after handling it, which was kind of the point of the cerakote, if my 1911 is going to have exposed spots, whats the purpose of cerakoting it if I'm going to have to clean it everytime I shoot it / handle it in certain areas?

3: Will it flake?

4: If bare metal starts to rust, will it spread under the cerakote?
 
You can't patch cerakote, it will need to be blasted off and redone.

They say you can't durocoat over it, but I'm not sure about that. I haven't tried it yet.

I always tape off the inside of the slide for my jobs, I typically don't want any paint inside the slide and on any friction points, like the rails etc. And I never paint the barrel.

If there are bare spots in hidden spots, I'd personally just oil those and live with them. But the spot near the sight does sound like paint got under the tape, if they did not remove the sights.

Where are you located?
 
If the factory finish started to show rust, then I wouldn't risk letting exposed spots remain exposed. I do not know about cerakote removal, but I would attempt to get it removed and either redone or patch/touch up the cracked spots with sort of rust proofing paint.

On a side note, if you are lookin for a cheap durable finish, look into Duplicolor High Heat Engine Enamel with Ceramic in a spray can from the autoparts store. I did my beater 16 gauge Ithaca shotgun in primer grey and low-gloss black and it goes on super smooth. I never clean it and it still looks fresh. I did multiple layers using mesh cabinet liners to make it carbon fiber pattern (see youtube "plastidip carbon fiber" for a demo). That may give you a cheaper option if you are artsy
 
I'm pretty sure RIA are parkerized, which is typically the best finish to have when refinishing with KG or Cerakote.

Live and learn, you opted to go cheap and you got burned.

IMO, paying someone to refinish your firearm would require me to get some feedback.

Anyone can refinish your firearm, but not all companies are going to offer you the best service. There is a reason why NIC has a list of applicators on their website.

"You get what you pay for" comes to mind with your situation. Live and learn.

Next time, do your research or buy your own Cerakote and DIY.

ETA, You cannot just "patch" up a thermal cured finish such as KG or Cerakote. KG and Cerakote offer an air cured product, but they are not durable...they are designed to touch up.
 
Ok so here's the in a nutshell description of my situation:

Bought RIA 1911A1 GI model

Despite I always use OCD-paranoid-levels of break-free on all my guns, it started to show bright orange rust spots

Decided to get it cerakoted and since I had jack for money, I looked around and found a place that does $125 with return shipping included on 1911s

Sent my 1911, took way longer than they said but thats fine whatever got it back today, went to the range and fired it, functioned fine, just as accurate despite barrel being coated yadda yadda

Took it down to wipe at least powder grit off and realized a bunch of parts were not cerakoted. Ok whatever. Then I noted a few parts had slivers of bare exposed steel. Nothing huge, like literally if you cut your finger nail and you had a crescent moon shaped little blotch is exactly how I'd describe these spots. They are on the barrel, inside the slide, and a there is one on recoil spring plug. There's also what appears to be a bit of a mass of like... a bubble around the rear sight that looks like the rear sight was never removed and cerakote was just sprayed over it and it massed around it from building up in the groove the sight goes into and bubbled upward...

I guess my questions are:

1: should I bother trying to talk to the guy who did the service at so low a price? He seems a little irked that I mentioned the magazine (I thought was included to be cerakoted in the service but I guess not) I had sent with it was not returned, though he said he'd ship it back, I don't really want to risk dealing with someone who's going to get pissy and thus probably cause more problems down the line.

2: If not, what can I do to cover these small bare metal spots? Should I use a blueing pen? Should I duracoat over it? I had a cerakote job done on a Browning Hi Power years ago that was way more thorough than this but cost almost 3x as much and never had to clean it after handling it, which was kind of the point of the cerakote, if my 1911 is going to have exposed spots, whats the purpose of cerakoting it if I'm going to have to clean it everytime I shoot it / handle it in certain areas?

3: Will it flake?

4: If bare metal starts to rust, will it spread under the cerakote?

The only way to fix a crappy cerakote job is to media blast it off and totally refinish it.
 
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