Slowly rebuilding my Super Stallion with Parts

[Peter M. Eick]

If you remember I had a posting a while (4 months ago) back where I bought a Colt Super Stallion and it had a terrible barrel in it.




I am the second owner and Colt says no to a free replacement so I decided to learn about 1911s by slowly fixing it. So, I decided to turn my Colt into a 1911 learning experience. I might as well just spend the time and money to learn how to work on it and develop some skill with it. I figure as long as I can put everything back the way it was in the Stallion I am good to go and just keep working and learning about the 1911.

Based upon your threads and questions I have now replaced the collet bushing for a solid EGW. That took a while to get fitted but it goes in now nice and tight but it can be removed with fingers. No more broken collet fingers to worry about.

I replaced the firing pin stop because the ejector was clocking badly. I became one with my files and stones for several hours carefully fitting an EGW oversized on in. Yes it did take hours because I wanted to get it done right and I wanted to learn about fileing and carefully testing everything. That is now done.

I next decided that the heavy 285 grn trigger needed to be replaced with a lighter straighter one so out with the steel trigger and in with an EGW gold cup trigger that only weights 155 grns. Again, the EGW part was 20 thousands to tall so I spent time with the files and carefully got it fitted in so it slides smoothly with minimal to no up down play. I next carefully polished the bow and broke the edges along with cleaned up a bit of roughness in the frame.

Since the factory trigger was bad (and yet this was supposed to have a "gold cup" quality trigger, go figure), I pulled the series 80 parts out of the slide and this dropped the trigger pull from over 6 lbs down to just under 6 lbs. It was also a lot smoother.

I took the sear and disconnnector out and saw that the sides of the sear were pretty rough so I carefully just touched the sides up to make them a bit smoother and avoided the working surfaces religiously. Back together again and the trigger is a lot smoother now.

I next took out the series 80 parts and smoothed both their sides and put it back together again and now the trigger is almost tolerable. It still has a bit of takeup or prep but the left off is a lot better now.

My next step was to order from brownells a frame insert so I can drop the series 80 parts and see what I can do with that. My guess that step will come later this week. I am also planning on dropping the gold cup sear depressor and spring since I have the lighter trigger in but I realize that I will need to test that to make sure I don't have a sear bounce issue.

Long term I am planning a kart ez-fit barrel in 38 super to replace the original problem and then probably a new fire control system. I was thinking that I could order a "near drop in" sear, disconnector and hammer at some point. Anyone have some recommendations on one that might fit and work?

 

[BBBBill]

...If you remember I had a posting a while (4 months ago) back where I bought a Colt Super Stallion and it had a terrible barrel in it...
I am the second owner and Colt says no to a free replacement so I decided to learn about 1911s by slowly fixing it... I might as well just spend the time and money to learn how to work on it and develop some skill with it...

...I have now replaced the collet bushing for a solid EGW...

I replaced the firing pin stop because the ejector was clocking badly...

I next decided that the heavy 285 grn trigger needed to be replaced with .. an EGW gold cup trigger that only weights 155 grns...

...I pulled the series 80 parts out of the slide and this dropped the trigger pull from over 6 lbs down to just under 6 lbs. It was also a lot smoother.

I ..saw that the sides of the sear were pretty rough so I ..touched the sides up to make them a bit smoother and avoided the working surfaces religiously...

I next took out the series 80 parts and smoothed both their sides and put it back together again and now the trigger is almost tolerable. It still has a bit of takeup or prep but the left off is a lot better now.

My next step was to order from brownells a frame insert so I can drop the series 80 parts and see what I can do with that. My guess that step will come later this week. I am also planning on dropping the gold cup sear depressor and spring since I have the lighter trigger in but I realize that I will need to test that to make sure I don't have a sear bounce issue.

Long term I am planning a kart ez-fit barrel in 38 super to replace the original problem and then probably a new fire control system. I was thinking that I could order a "near drop in" sear, disconnector and hammer at some point. Anyone have some recommendations on one that might fit and work? ...

I know you've seen the recommendation before - buy the Kuhnhausen books, at least Volumn 1. It is a great reference book that will help keep you on the right path.
EGW is a great choice for parts. I use lots including bushings and firing pin stops.
Removing only the firing pin safety lock plunger and spring and leaving the two levers in the frame can cause problems. The plunger lever bouncing around under the force of firing can bounce up and catch the vacant plunger hole in the slide, bending the tip of the lever and locking the slide. Series 80 safety parts contribute only the minutest amount to the trigger pull when properly deburred, polished and tuned. If you need details on that, ask and ye shall receive. Their contribution to the pull weight/feel is practically undetectible until you get down to 3# or less. Please remove the frame parts/put it the spacer or reinstall the plunger and spring before doing any more shooting. You should do just fine without the sear depressor lever and spring now that you have the lighter trigger. The heavy trigger was their only reason for being there.
Kart is a fantastic choice for a barrel. Get the fitting kit with the barrel.
The closest thing to drop in fire control parts are the kits from C&S, but they often still need a little tweaking due to the individual variations in the guns.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

Actually I need to buy another set of Kuhnhausen books. My first copy has started to really fall apart from me studying it while working on the bench. I hate to just toss it since I have written myself a bunch of notes so thanks for the advice. I will pick a set up next time I see them at the store.

I know I can't leave the gap in the frame. I figured I can deal with the gap when the Brownells insert comes in later on. Right now I am just playing with it. You comment that the series 80 parts add only the minutest amount to the trigger pull? I measured it, in my gun it is adding over 8 onz to the trigger pull. Far from minute especially because it is gritty. The problem is probably the poor parts that were not polished and tuned. Since all of my other 1911's are "normal", I figured ditch the series 80 and learn how to work on the guns and understand better how they work.

My goal is a reasonably 4 to 5 lbs trigger that has a smooth take up and a clean release. The clean break I believe is already there with the stock Gold cup sear and Hammer but it is lost in the series 80 parts and other roughness in the system. We will see as I get closer.

Thanks for the comment about the kart kit. I have gone back and forth on it and figured I would ask when the time comes. I wanted to take this one step at a time to see if I could learn how to do it.

Thanks also for the tip on C&S. I know I need to get some more tools bought before I even consider looking at the hammer and sear angles and working surfaces. I have a lot more learning before I even touch them.