Smallest J-frame contest

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TheProf

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I'm looking for a pocket revolver...

1. It must be at least .38 +P...
2. No more than 15 oz. unloaded...
3. Hmmm...before you answer...

This j-frame must be the absolute slimmest profile so that I can keep it in my front pocket.... (I'm not looking for the absolute lightest... just the slimmest profile...)
 
The desgnation "J"-frame pertains to the size of the frame, and consequently the cylinder. In other words, they're all the same size as far as I know.
 
A S&W J frame is a S&W J frame????? They don't come in thick and thin flavors.:D Perhaps you meant the smallest possible 38 Special stub nose revolver . In which case I don't have the foggiest
 
This j-frame must be the absolute slimmest profile so that I can keep it in my front pocket....

The cylinder walls have to be a certain thickness, having less than 5 shots wouldn't reduce the cylinder size, and the thickest part of a J frame is gonna be the cylinder. So, it sounds like they're gonna be about the same width, and sounds like the best fix is a decent pocket holster to break up the silhouette. I carry a Taurus M85 in an Uncle Mike's #4; there are better holsters, but it does the job for me.

Hell, if you're a Math professor, you could put a short 629 in a Crackerjack box in your front pocket, and tell people it's a TI-83. :D
 
Isn't the Model 60 .357 Mag J Frame a little larger than a strait .38 Special J Frame?

I know the barrel is 1/4" longer but is the frame a slightly larger/heavier?
 
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Sounds like either an airweight in .38 +P exactly meets your requirements. They weight 15 oz empty (around 17-17.4 loaded), they are the most compact J Frames with the 1 7/8" barrel (.357s have a 2 1/8" barrel), and though most people don't fine them as pleasant to shoot as a full sized .38 or .357, they aren't too bad either.

But if you can try one first, do. I dont' find the recoil to be too objectionable, but my wife, sister and father can't stand it.
 
As others have said, the thickest part of a j-frame is the cylinder--and a j-frame cylinder is a j-frame-cylinder is a j-frame-cylinder--you get the idea. There might be some inconsequential diameter differences, but I don't think so--they all have to fit in a j-frame frame.

The lengths can be different, of course--but it sounds to me like jad0110 summarized one for you consider. Another might well be the scandium-framed 360 in 38 Special--p/n 16030. That weighs a bit less, at 13.3 oz., and is a stronger frame as well--it's the .357 scandium frame.

Jim H.
 
the cylinder diameter defines the "thinkness" of a J-frame, all their cylinders are the same diameter

a Ruger LCR is a bit thinner. this was just by feel, i was at my FFL and didn't have my calipers with me
 
Just keep some Cardboard between the Revolver and the outside Pocket-cloth.


Shortening the Handle/Grip, is also a big help, if Trousers - such as Levi 501s - have relatively shallow Pockets.


Otherwise...any J-Frame will be the same thickness...


This is an old S & W Model 36, modified in 1989 for the front Trouser Pocket Carry -




Note shortened/reprofiled Handle/Grip
 
the Ruger LCR or Taurus 85UL might be worth a look, if taking "j-frame" as generic descriptor (and I am reluctant to recommend current Taurus/Rossi to friends, given their erratic track record on quality)
though I don't know if smaller than a true J or not
buddy found a "used" Rossi 85 snubbie cheap, real nice, real decent trigger, I suspect might be a pre-Taurus/Rossi model, dunno
 
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Rossi "j-frames" aren't j-frame size at all. They are six shot .38's and are more k-frame/Colt Detective sized.

Unless you are talking about the older Rossi's before Taurus took them over...
 
Rossi "j-frames" aren't j-frame size at all. They are six shot .38's and are more k-frame/Colt Detective sized.

the one and only I briefly saw (held it & liked DA trigger) was not a k-frame (I own 8 of those), nor did I think same frame as older Rossi model 851 38sp (own that too)
did not have my J-frame model 60 S&W on that day, to compare side by side, cannot really say... but at 1st glance I thought it was a Taurus 85 or 85UL, until looked at name

irrelevant to OP in any case, needless distraction... whatever it was, I did not think it a UL model when held in my hand, whatever it was

on the other hand, the Taurus 85UL appears to be more highly regarded than other current Taurus/Rossi models... casually tempted to give one of those a try myself "someday", 85UL
 
smallest 38spec made by S&W, the 1950-53 Chief Special, often called a Baby Chief, grip is I frame length, trigger guard is much smaller
 
I have a S&W Model 40-1 (steel) J-Frame and it's a pretty small package - waiting on a set of Tyler T-Grips to finish it off. I really like this revolver - just feels good, shoots nice groups (for a 1 7/8" barrel) when I do my part.

As mentioned above, you're not going to find "thinner" vs. "thicker" j-frames and they'll never be as flat as any compact autos out there.

If you go with a snubbie make sure you practice, practice, practice and it won't let you down.
 
the THINNEST FEELING revolver I have handled has been the LCR.... it is also the lightest ( I have felt.) I would recommend you take a look... otherwise, any 5 shot j frame is going to be the same width +/- a few unrecognizable fractions of an inch.


want firepower---compromise and get a revolver and forget pocket carry

want concealment---compromise and get a P3AT or LCP and forget its in your pocket.
 
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