Smith and wesson issue

[Gunnerboy]

Alright this one has me puzzled completely... Its a k-22 and the issue is that when the firearm is completely assembled the hammer is blocked by the cylinder release internally. So thinking maybe a weak spring inside the cylinder rod or assembly i replaced EVERY spring in that gun with brand new springs... well the hammer is still blocked and unable to be pulled back. So ive diagnosed the crane, the cylinder and the cylinder rod etc etc... I cannot find any reason why this is happening? Any suggestions? And no nothing is bent or out of spec even tried swapping parts from one k-22 to this one and the same issue happended!

 

[4v50 Gary]

The bolt on S&W revolvers is designed to block the hammer when the action is open.

It could be that the bolt plunger is sticking and jamming the bolt's free movement. When the action is closed, the bolt should be pushed to the rear by the cylinder pin, which itself is acting on the pressure asserted over it by the front locking bolt (the one in the barrel lug).

 

[Jim K]

The bolt inside is held in place by its slot and by the nut/screw in the thumbpiece. If the screw is loose, the bolt could become loose and block the hammer, so I would first try tightening the thumbpiece screw.

Jim

 

[Gunnerboy]

Nope its non of those... ive worked on plenty of smith & wessons before just never had a hiccup like this!

 

[Kp321]

Can you make it work by pulling back on the cylinder release thumb piece?
There may be crud or a broken spring in the rear of the bolt or something behind the bolt. Would not take a very large burr to hose things up. As a last resort, you could file extra clearance into the bolt to allow the hammer to clear.

 

[Jim K]

Does the same thing happen with the cylinder open and the thumb piece held back?

Jim

 

[BBBBill]

Back off the strain screw, pull the side plate, and cycle the action slowly while observing the hammer's relationship to the bolt. Pull the guts and check the bolt, plunger, and spring. Ensure that the nose of the bolt is flush with the breach face when all the way forward. If not, the base pin may not be able to push it back far enough on closing to unblock the hammer.

 

[Gunnerboy]

Yes pulling back on the thumbpiece allows the hammer to clear and function, Ive pulled out the bolt plunger and spring replaced the spring and polished the plunger and checked for burrs.... none of that... Its rather quite puzzling

 

[Miked7762]

What method did you use to remove the side plate?

Loosen the side plate screws and try the hammer. If it pulls back you may have a small burr on the side plate or a warped side plate. It doesn't take much to bind up the bolt. Step tightening the screws in small increments can mitigate a warped plate in some instances.

 

[Gunnerboy]

It Binds up with or without the sideplate... you can actually see the Rear of the bolt (hammer Block portion) ..doing well its job.. just all the time rather than only when the cylinder is open.

 

[Jim K]

I assume your revolver is standard S&W and has the forward lock under the barrel.

So, try this. With the cylinder closed, look at the forward lock; the front part of the lock should stick out of the lug. Push in on that round part that protrudes and see if it moves any or if the hammer frees up when you push on the end of the lock.

Jim