Smith Model 22, Model 1917 Classic

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Turk

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As some of you may remember from a previous thread I was looking for a Colt 1917 in 45 Colt then I found out they were manufactured in 45 ACP and any 45 Colts were conversions. So with that said since I’m a shooter and not a collector I opted for a New S&W Model 22, 1917 Classic. ! Paid $748.00 out the door. I got it yesterday and what a cat’s meow

I took it out to the range was shooting the following 45 ACP in 6 round clips, Win Brass, WLP, 5.3 grs. Of Bullseye shooting a 200 NBC SWC bullet, 45 Auto Rim (Starline) WLP, 11 grs of Accurate #9, 250 gr. SAECO SWCPB bullet, Factory Ammo Speer Lawman ammo 200 gr. JHP Flying ashtray. All cases were roll crimped.

From 25 yards I started out with the 250 gr. Bullets and was hitting high moved to 12-15 yards and was a inch or so high. The 250 felt recoil was very stout with grouping 3 inches in a vertical string. The 200 SWC grouped 3 inches but in a circle very pleasant to shoot. The factory flying ashtray grouped 2.5 inches and had less felt recoil than the Bullseye SWC load. I purchased the 45 Auto Rim cases but I like the 6 rounds clips better and they are faster loading than speed loaders for the 629

I really like the way this gun feels and shoots and the weight is great. On Friday I was out looking for deer sheds and was carrying my Smith 629 5” 44 mag. You know I need the 44 mag. for big bears. Oh that’s right we don’t have big bears in Ohio and anyway I carry it loaded 44 special Winchester Silver tips for protection. So from now on my woods carry will be the 1917 Classic since it’s ½ lb. Lighter and the 629. I’m down to my last box of 200 gr. JHP (flying ashtray) bullets but will save them for the 1917 classic. I like them because of the crimping groove. These have been tucked back since the Gold Dots have been around for my 1911.

For carrying in the woods I think the regular Model 22 Classic in 4” barrel would be great if the person doesn’t want the old military style and there's not big bears around and not want a super duper dragon killer.

My next buy project was a Glock 20 10mm (I can’t believe I’m buying a Glock but I want a 10mm) but now I plan to get a Model 21 Classic in 44 Special. 4”. With the 44 Special you can increase the horse power to the high end larger things.

Turk
 
Try 5.6 grains of 231 behind your 200 grain swc and you will have a one holer. Enjoy

jj
 
They are great guns for carrying in the woods. I haven't shot my slightly older "Heritage" model with anything but WWB, but it shoots very well. It doesn't get to the range as much as my S&W "pre-25", but it's still a good gun. The 1917 is at about 6:30, the 1955 target is just to the right.

Here, it's wearing some Roy Fishpaw sambar stag grips, and one of these days I'll have El Paso Saddlery make a full-flap holster, and be good to go. I'll have to change my gunsite name to "Indiana Bob", I guess. Before the film guys tell me the celluloid Indy used a Second Model Hand Ejector in the first film, hey - an N-frame S&W is an N-frame S&W!

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Nice guns, nice to see there is no lock on your new Smith. If I could find one without the lock that looks like that I would buy it.

jj
 
I have a TRR Model 22 and it is quickly becoming my carry revolver. I've been completely won over to 45 ACP revolvers. It was the full moon clip that was the clincher.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Just Jim: I'll give the 231 a chance. Have used it in my 1911 with excellent results.

Indy Bob: If you're hunting for a flap holster out take a look at this company http://www.ourbanditleather.com/id103.html I was looking for a Welby style for my 626 (which is what Dr. Jones was carrying in the movie) The top one in natural is actually my holster. It's hand made and excellent workmanship.

Turk
 
S&W Model 22 1917

I am REAL CLOSE to buying a Model 22 1917. I like the longer 5" barrel, which other than this gun, you cannot find a like revolver in 45ACP. Good 45 LC's around, for sure, but I am price sensitive to the ammo, so 45 ACP it is... SO, my question: the original poster seems happy enough with his 1917, I'd like to reconfirm that, and with others, as to accuracy.. That is my biggest concern given NO adjustability to the sights, as the rear is not even a drifted fixed sight, but is only that groove.. By the way, my interest in "accuracy" is only about windage, and hitting an apple at around 20 yards.

Since the 625 in 5" is history, my only other choices might be 4" 625JM or the 325TR.. Both good, I believe, and even adjustable rear sights, but I do prefer the 5", like the looks of it, etc. so back to above..Unless the Model 22 is known for inaccuarate hitting left/right whatever, I'll go with it.

Thanks!
 
I have one of the .45ACP SW1917 revolvers made "back in the day." 1918, IIRC.

I had owned & shot L & J frame S&Ws, but little did I know that I was meant to own & shoot N-frames.

Sucker felt so right in my hand and if I lined up the teeny-tiny sights correctly, I was rewarded with one ragged hole (6 rounds) at 25 yards...a feat I had never done with any other revolver.

It inspired me to buy a SW629-1. I shoot it well, too, and I don't worry about wearing off the blueing like I might with my SW1917.

N-frames are just the wheel-guns I was meant to shoot.
 
Unless the Model 22 is known for inaccuarate hitting left/right whatever, I'll go with it.
As with any fixed sight revolver, where it hits will depend on the shooters grip, and what ammo is put in it.

Different bullet weights, different power levels, the firmness of the grip, etc. all result in different POI on the target.

If it shoots low with light bullets, change to heavy bullets and it will raise the POI.

The point being, with a little experimenting with different ammo, you are likely to find something that shoots exactly to point of aim in your gun.

rcmodel
 
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