A few weeks ago I bought a Smith 66 with a 2.75" barrel new from a gun shop not far away. I took it home and sighted it in and put another 50 rounds through it. After maybe 200 rounds through it I got a double action light strike. I thought maybe the primer was a little proud and I missed it while loading the revolver. I have had multiple light strikes with this revolver over the next 100 rounds. I checked the strain screw it was maybe a half turn from all the way in. The reloads I am using run just fine in my 686 no dash so I am quite certain it's not the magnum pistol primers that I reloaded with. A local gunsmith that has retired to everyone but close friends will be home from Florida in a week and I am going to let him look at it. Any thoughts on things to check before he gets home. I feel like the old you always get 6 out of a revolver is getting shattered lately.
Smith&Wesson 66 light strikes
- Thread starter nick22
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After tightening the strain screw did you retest? If you use regular small pistol primers does it work OK? Do factory rounds work without issue?
I’ve bought extended firing pins for new S&W revolvers to fix the problem you’re having.
I’ve bought extended firing pins for new S&W revolvers to fix the problem you’re having.
I did tighten the strain screw all the way down it was better as far as reliability goes but the trigger was stout to say the least. It still light struck a few. I will run some .38's through it that have standard spp in them it's quite frustrating.
UncleEd
Member
Make up some primed empty
cases for testing for when
your friend arrives.
Have your DA pulls been
consistently "slow" or "fast"
in achieving hammer
momentum? Hesitations
in hammer pull can affect
momentum, "weight" of
drop.
Mentioned misfires started
after a number of rounds.
Did the batch with misfires
come from a different loading
session or was the brass
of a different make.
And firing pin design different
between new 66 and older 686.
cases for testing for when
your friend arrives.
Have your DA pulls been
consistently "slow" or "fast"
in achieving hammer
momentum? Hesitations
in hammer pull can affect
momentum, "weight" of
drop.
Mentioned misfires started
after a number of rounds.
Did the batch with misfires
come from a different loading
session or was the brass
of a different make.
And firing pin design different
between new 66 and older 686.
Last edited:
LaneP
Member
If I were in that scenario and I was confident I had good mainspring tension, the next items I would check would be firing pin protrusion and anything in the arc of the hammer that might be decelerating it on the way forward, i.e., hammer rubbing or dirty/gummed up internals.
Had sort of a similar situation with a Ruger Super Redhawk not setting off CCI small magnum rifle primers using DA, and in that case there was insufficient firing pin protrusion. Corrected that and now it's 100%.
Had sort of a similar situation with a Ruger Super Redhawk not setting off CCI small magnum rifle primers using DA, and in that case there was insufficient firing pin protrusion. Corrected that and now it's 100%.
UncleEd
Member
Usaral's question makes me ask
is the 66 a brand new gun or
was it in the LGS used section?
Nick22, please address some of
the comments as soon as
possible. Otherwise this thread
just becomes a constant spinning
of the wheels like so many other
postings.
is the 66 a brand new gun or
was it in the LGS used section?
Nick22, please address some of
the comments as soon as
possible. Otherwise this thread
just becomes a constant spinning
of the wheels like so many other
postings.
trackskippy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2010
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- 3,514
One thing Ive done when Ive run into the problem and the screw was out, but it got better once screwed in, but still did it on occasion, is to back the screw off and slip a spent primer with the anvil removed, under the end of the screw and snug it back up. That will often do it.
Its also a fix for the Wolff springs with the raised ridge in the back of the spring, which leaves a depression in the front of it, where the screw puts pressure. Is the spring a "flat" factory type spring, or does it look like it might be a Wolff replacement?
Wolff really should address that part of their springs as Ive run into that problem a couple of times now.
Its also a fix for the Wolff springs with the raised ridge in the back of the spring, which leaves a depression in the front of it, where the screw puts pressure. Is the spring a "flat" factory type spring, or does it look like it might be a Wolff replacement?
Wolff really should address that part of their springs as Ive run into that problem a couple of times now.
Riomouse911
Member
Original Post said it was bought new. If it was new and untinkered with, I’d send it back. S&W is pretty quick with warranty repairs. With older guns like the ones I’ve sent back over the past couple of years for repair, expect several months to pass before you get it back.
If it was “like new” but actually used, then I’d respring it with a OEM-power replacement and try anew first. If it keeps light-striking after that, then I’d send it back.
Good luck finding out the issue(s).
Stay safe.
If it was “like new” but actually used, then I’d respring it with a OEM-power replacement and try anew first. If it keeps light-striking after that, then I’d send it back.
Good luck finding out the issue(s).
Stay safe.
If you’re going to load with Magnum SPP, I’d seriously consider adding an Extended Firing Pin kit from Apex Tactical Specialties.
After completely tightening the stain screw, your should next test it with some factory ammo. That will tell you if it left the factory “within spec.” If you’re getting FTF with factory ammo, it is time to call the factory about returning it for repair.
After completely tightening the stain screw, your should next test it with some factory ammo. That will tell you if it left the factory “within spec.” If you’re getting FTF with factory ammo, it is time to call the factory about returning it for repair.
Thanks for the replies the primers in that batch were CCI 550 probably purchased two years ago. The revolver was new out of the box. The brass was a mixture of different brands most of the ammunition fired was out of the same batch. I am going to try and load up some rounds with standard spp and see how it functions. It's more than disappointing to have to use spp for .357 those revolvers should eat whatever I put in there loaded properly. I am sure it's not a proud primer issue.
243winxb
Member
A New Gun, needs lite lube.
Is the hammer rubbing the frame. May need some Power custom hammer sideplate shims.
A test for a Smith and Wesson revolver, model 28, 357mag., may work on other guns also<> Gun empty.
Dryfire gun and hold trigger fully to rear.
Cock hammer with thumb.
Hook a weight around the hammer (for example 3 1/2 LB minimum weight for 357).
The hammer must not move rearward when the gun is lifted.
The hammer should lift 3 1/2 lbs without going into the cocked position.
Is the hammer rubbing the frame. May need some Power custom hammer sideplate shims.
A test for a Smith and Wesson revolver, model 28, 357mag., may work on other guns also<> Gun empty.
Dryfire gun and hold trigger fully to rear.
Cock hammer with thumb.
Hook a weight around the hammer (for example 3 1/2 LB minimum weight for 357).
The hammer must not move rearward when the gun is lifted.
The hammer should lift 3 1/2 lbs without going into the cocked position.
Last edited:
cslinger
Member
Yep this is what I was thinking. Check to see if it’s been cut or ground down.
ThomasT
Member
Boy ain't that the truth. I sent back a model 10-8 back at the end of last January and called about the middle of February and was told it was being looked at. Ruger service they ain't.
Riomouse911
Member
If the side of the hammer starts looking like the one on my Model 48-3 below, the hammer will definitely need to be shimmed to keep it from rubbing the side when being fired.
Stay safe.
If it's brand new, don't mess with anything and use the warranty. Send it back. You shouldn't be having light primer strikes with a brand new iron.
Try the usual of cleaning and lubing, but just keep in mind that once you start messing with things, the warranty becomes void.
Try the usual of cleaning and lubing, but just keep in mind that once you start messing with things, the warranty becomes void.
Pudge
Member
I had an issue with light primer strikes in a GP100. Everything seemed fine, wasn't consistent for a particular chamber. It had been fine, but then it wasn't. Turned out to be unburnt powder under the transfer bar. Just something to look at.
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