Smoke Pole Education Needed

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Cosmoline

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I've decided to finally get around to getting and learning how to use a muzzleloader. I've always liked the Penn rifles for their balance and looks, but I don't know much about them otherwise. Mostly this is going to be for target shooting and I'd kind of like to stick with a flintlock. Caliber isn't all that significant. If I hunt anything with it, it would be squirrel and grouse.

But I'm open minded. Would a shotgun be better for a beginner? What caliber and twist rate combo is the best bet if I'm using roundballs in a rifle? What black powder substitute is a solid performer?
 
Slower twist is easier for round balls. Cap locks are easier for beginners, but flintlocks can be done. I would start with a cap lock because you are going to get addicted and buy a rock lock eventually anyhow.

Edit: Triple Seven may be the substitute for a beginner because it is a bit more forgiving on cleaning. Still gotta clean like the dickens, though.
 
muzzleloadingforum.com is the mecca you are seeking. This topic is almost a weekly event there from when i posted alot on that fine sight.

However the decision may hinge upon what you actually want to do with it. If you want just target and squirrel hunting, a small bore rifle may be the best for you. However if you want rough target shooting and bird hunting a shotgun would be best.
 
Definitely not a shotgun. They are a bit more complicated to learn to shoot properly and with the right load. Best to get bp experience with a caplock and round balls first, then if you want to get into fowlers, by all means go for it. It's great fun.

I don't see an advantage or disadvantage to learning with real bp, or with one of the substitutes. At some point you'll want to try the other, so....

Caliber & twist rate - again, for a beginner it doesn't really matter. 50 cal is most common, but there are plenty of very good .45's and .54's out there. Buy one you like the looks of, that's inexpensive but a well known brand. The Lyman Great Plains comes to mind. Moderate twist rate, well balanced, shoots very well and accurately, not complicated to learn and maintain. But there are many others.
 
I would go with either the Traditions or Lyman for your first time out. Quality stuff, not really historically accurate but the tend to be good shooters, and you'll learn the basics
 
Sorry to disagree, but the Traditions isn't that durable. The Lyman is great, but it's a plains rifle. The Cabela's Blue Ridge Hunter is about the only production flintlock longrifle that's the proper size.

LD
 
The Hawken style guns have a hooked breech which makes it easier to clean by removing the bbl and sticking the breech into a bucket of hot water using the ramrod to pump the water up to the muzzle. The pennsylvania style have the bbl usually fixed in with more permanent stuff like pins or whatnot. YMMV
 
.36 or .40 cal for small game and targets.

I'd go with nothing smaller than a .36, as the very small calibers tend to foul faster, making loading more difficult. Even my .36 gets hard to load after just a few shots and needs a swab. My .50 can go all day.

If it's strictly for targets and such, you may be better served with a percussion rifle. The flint flinch is hard to cure in a new blackpowder shooter sometimes. Ignition is also more reliable on damp and humid days. Good thing for a beginner. I like my flints, so I won;t disparage them, but a beginner might feel better about fewer variables to learn with.

Twist rate will depend on what profectile you want to use, round ball or conical bullet. Normally, .45 cal and under use a 1:48 (good for .40 and smaller, sucks for .45) and .50 - .54 cal use a 1:66 twist. Pretty good for .50, but too fast for .54 caliber. These numbers are assuming round ball use. You'll want faster twist to use a conical.
 
OK some tips to get the most out of that rifle. Swap out the front sight for an after-market, thin, silver, front sight. I get them from Track of The Wolf, and it really gets the most out of the accuracy. I also personally don't like buckhorn rear sights, but that's up to you. Second, you may have to lap the bore with a "green scrubbie" if the lands cut patches. An easy fix, as the the barrels are usually cut quite precise, and so the lands are sharp. The twist rate is 1:48 so good for round ball, and also conical if you think you need to shoot heavy projectiles. I prefer a .54 round ball for everything 'cept moose, but I like to get in a shot at under 50 yards. My "pet" load is 70 grains of 3Fg, and I use 3Fg to prime.

Enjoy!

LD
 
Since muzzleloadingforum.com was mentioned, I feel I should mention americanlongrifles.com as well. More builders on the latter site, but both are great groups of guys (and gals!)

If you plan to get a real old fashioned muzzleloader (especially a flinter) then get real holy black - black powder that is. 777 and other modern stuff (e.g., Pioneer) don't work as well as BP does. PLus, BP is more fun, IMHO.

Most places can mail-order powder, I get mine from http://www.powderinc.com/
 
I also personally don't like buckhorn rear sights, but that's up to you.

I hate buckhorns. I swap them out for aperture or tangent whenever possible, with a sourdough on the front. No beads! I had a bead fold over and snap off once.

I prefer a .54 round ball for everything 'cept moose,

Is there any advantage of .54 over .50 apart from the added weight and caliber? There seem to be some calibers that are easier to deal with than others as far as finding components, cleaning, etc.

As far as holy black, aren't there concerns like spontaneous combustion and the like? Or is this no more of a problem than it would be with BLO rags?
 
.54 is an advantage over .50 because of the heavier balls and bullets available. These blackpowder ML guns work more on mass of the projectile than velocity and the like that modern guns do. Blackpowder is a weaker propellant than smokeless, and the projectiles will travel slower than modern guns' projectiles. Heavier the ball or bullet, more likely it is to kill and kill quicker. A large wound is what you want with a ML gun. A .54 with a heavy conical bullet is quite capable of taking bears and moose and such. Round balls will work on most anything else. A .50 is just fine for most people but if by chance you might encounter a large bear or something, a .54 will be nicer to have. I've seen 600+ grain conicals available for the .54 though you'll have to search hard to find them, the ones I have (600 grains) were hand cast by someone with a mold who sells them. When I find a good price on a mold (and have the spare cash for it) buying them won't be an issue. The barrel will need to take a hefty charge but not too much (as a rule I don't like to go over 120 grains behind the large conicals I've used), the modern inlines' 150 grain charges is a waste of powder. .50 rifles are easier to find parts and such for, but the .54 offers some advantages that make it worth the extra effort to find parts I think. Round balls and low charges (I use around 70 grains most of the time but this varies with the rifle and you'll need to find an accurate charge for your individual gun) will work on many smaller animals and the large conicals make it suitable for very large animals. It's very versatile.

.58 is also quite useful, but, IMHO, it gets to the point of diminishing returns versus the cost. Used .54 guns are fairly easy to find and cheap, .58's not so, so considering the .54 is adequate for almost everything in North America, I don't think the .58 is worth the extra money, unless you're just interested in the guns that originally used it, like the guns of the Civil War...that's a perfectly good reason to buy one but if that's not the case I'd go with .54

I wouldn't worry about BP igniting on its own. Static electricity can set it off of course but then, it could set off the substitutes too. Just use common sense with it and you won't have any trouble. Good luck finding it though, I generally have to order it from Grafs (don't have the money for large 20 pound plus orders that some cheaper places want so I usually get 4 or 5 pounds at a time), no place around me stocks it most of the time, only pyrodex, which is okay in a percussion gun if you load it carefully (make sure to shake it a bit so it gets further down so it'll go off with a #11 cap) but terrible in a flintlock.
 
Back in the day before they denominated things in caliber they said "so many balls to the pound" or gauge - 30 gauge is 54 caliber. That's how you get that one, it sounds odd in caliber but comes out even in gauge.
 
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