Smoothing Out a New GP100

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My GP100 had significant rubbing on both sides of the hammer prior to installation of the hammer shims. Using the thinnest shims solved 99% of the rubbing. Marks still show up after shooting hundreds of rounds, but nothing to worry about. I think using the thinnest shims possible is the best answer.

You should try going down one level with the hammer springs. You might be pleasantly surprised, and it looks like you already have the parts..
 
You should try going down one level with the hammer springs. You might be pleasantly surprised, and it looks like you already have the parts..

I actually don't have replacement hammer springs. And I'm slightly concerned about doing that to carry gun, mainly for the sake of reliability. Not that I couldn't thoroughly test it of course.
 
I went through my GP100 doing some smoothing recently, and found that the two areas that made the most difference in smoothness were the trigger return spring hole and the mainspring rod. I did a first round without touching either of those, and when pulling back the hammer with the grip off could faintly hear the springs grinding on those surfaces. I rounded the edge of the rod and polished it with 1000 grit, and I polished the inside of the return spring hole with a piece of 1000 grit wrapped around a Q-tip, all by hand, slowly, checking progress regularly. Both helped immensely, and have no relation to the hammer, sear, or even hammer dog, so cannot adversely affect the safety of the trigger. I polished a number of other surfaces where contact was made in the trigger group, but did not touch any hammer/sear engagement surfaces. I also added shims to the hammer and trigger, both of which had drag marks, an 8 lb return spring, and a 12 pound hammer spring. I have not had any light strikes with a variety of commercial .38 and .357 ammunition.

I did all that in stages (polish, assemble, test, repeat), and can confidently say that the trigger return hole, which was a mess, and the mainspring bar, which is a stamped piece with a rough edge, made the biggest difference in smoothness. After the work was done, the trigger is great (although I have never handled a worked over S&W so I don't have anything to compare to). The biggest improvement was the DA trigger, it is really nice to shoot now. In fact, the last few times I have shot it, I have only shot it DA. Before the work, shooting DA was not particularly pleasant.
 
I used to have a DAO SP101 and I made my own trigger job just mirror polishing by hand every contact surfaces of the trigger mechanism with a very thin abrasive paste and a wet rag. The trigger was very smooth after that.
I don't recommend to replace springs, expecially the rebound spring or you'll have a not positive trigger return. I also played with a couple of hammer springs kits and always went back with the original one. Just my two cents.
 
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