Solvent? Oil?

[ZWCoffindaffer]

I'm really curious to see what cleaning products everyone uses on their rifles and/or handguns. I've always just used Hoppe's, but there are so many other solvents and oils out there, I was wondering what everybody else used. Also, feel free to briefly describe your cleaning procedure.

 

[ZWCoffindaffer]

btw,

me personally, after a range session I zip a bore snake with oil and solvent through a couple times and call it done. "deep" clean the old fashioned way after the gun has been exposed to bad weather, multiple range sessions, been sitting a long time, etc.

 

[LeonCarr]

Solvent - Ed's Red or CLP 99% of the time, 10% Janitor's Ammonia for copper fouling removal.

Oil - 0W-20 Mobil 1 or CLP

I have thrown most of the other potions and snake oils out.

My procedure with both rifles and handguns is to run solvent soaked patches through the bore first thing, sometimes I do it at the range while the guns are still warm. Then I run solvent soaked brushes through the barrels, about one stroke for each round fired, and while the solvent is working I clean the actions and interiors. One trick I use that cuts down on cleaning time is using rifle length brushes for cleaning handguns (.35 caliber rifle brushes for .38/.357/9mm, .45 caliber rifle brushes for .45 ACP, etc). Longer brushes, fewer strokes. Then I dry patch the barrels, lube the contact points, wipe the exterior with a lightly oiled patch, and rock on.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

 

[Reloadron]

I use a wide range of cleaners and oils and grease. Years ago I came into a small truckload of Tetra Gun products, then there is the Hoppes, a good supply of Break Free CLP, and plenty of Rem Oil, Rem Scrub and Rem Wipes.
I clean the old fashion way, I wet the bore and push patches through on a jag. I like to wet bores as I leave the range and finish when I get home.

Ron

 

[Fishbed77]

I've become a big fan of M-Pro7 solvent lately over Hoppes #9. It cleans better, is easier to remove from the firearm, is non-toxic, and doesn't smell nearly as bad as Hoppes.

For oil, Breakfree CLP works great for me.

 

[matrem]

Certainly depends on the reason I have that gun and how I use it.

All of my handguns & rimfire rifles get a dose of Hoppes 9 powder solvent on a patch or brush inside the barrel and a bit of whatever lube is on hand on the moving parts.

Most of my centerfire rifles get the same and occasionally a copper solvent as deemed needed, but only with a bore guide, then lube on moving parts.

Some of my most shot rifles get blasted with nc brake cleaner and a nylon brush inside the barrel, the dirt collecting internals get a mineral spirit bath when needed, and the moving parts get a rather healthy dose of lube.

One size sure doesn't fit all guns.

Some of my most used brands are CR10 copper solvent, Hoppes 9 powder solvent, Breakfree CLP, Slip 2000, synthetic motor oil, Remoil, Wal Mart brand brake cleaner, Montana Extreme products, and many others.

Most work very well. How and when you apply them is far more important.

 

[md7]

Like fishbed, I've been using MPro 7 cleaner. I like their lpx for lube too.

But that's certainly not the only good option available. Matrem is spot on. A lot of good stuff out there, just use em correctly.

 

[BullRunBear]

I tend to keep things basic: Hoppe's #9 for cleaning and Rem Oil for lube and preservative. No rust over the years so I guess it works. I shoot 99% cast bullets so don't need a copper cleaner and usually clean the guns after every session so there's little build up. I did pick up a synthetic to lube the Garand.

Don't know if it will matter but I started using a VERY light application of Renaissance Wax on the exterior of the BP guns once they are clean.

BTW, I like the smell of Hoppe's and, MUCH more important, so does my wife.

Jeff

 

[ZWCoffindaffer]

Bull,

I too enjoy the smell of hoppes. Always have. I love the smell of hoppes, old wood, and gun powder that has developed in my reloading/gun room.


Guys that use copper removing agents, how often do you do that? 100 rounds? 1000?

 

[JO JO]

I have been using weapons shield seems to do well

 

[OilyPablo]

I mix Hoppe's and Kroil for my everyday cleaner. It's not a miracle product, but it does a good job. It cleans way better than any gun oil.

I actually like M-Pro7, but the expense is just too much. I agree it cleans decently.

I do use Amsoil silicone spray for blowing out deep crevices and such when only field stripping. I will use WD-40 as a flood lubricant for cleaning other lubes out. I will remove the WD-40 and follow up with a proper lubricant or preservative.

For lubricants I follow the gun manufacturer's general recommendations. I have tons of lubes, so I try to match the viscosity to weather if gun is in frequent use. I use Militec if I want dry lubed areas. For just super light oil (think slide internals) I will use Amsoil Regular (light)Metal Protector. I also will use Frog-Lube as a lubricant.

For storage, I use Eezox or Corrosion-X. Both are great. Neither is a great lubricant.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Ed's Red to clean. Eezox to protect.

 

[GRIZ22]

I've used Hoppes or GI bore solvent (Hoppes better on lead IMO), brake cleaner, and CLP for years. I like G96 as an "old tech CLP". I also use WD40 if the firearm has been drenched and remove it with brake cleaner.

 

[.375]

Hornady One-Shot

 

[taliv]

For precision rifles I mostly use shooters choice but I'm not that particular. Any copper solvent is fine.

For carbines and handguns I use brake cleaner. Then lube with slip2k EWL

 

[M-Cameron]

For carbines and handguns I use brake cleaner. Then lube with slip2k EWL

the Brake cleaner isnt too harsh on the finish?.......i mean, brake clean is pretty tough stuff......it ate holes in the asphalt on my driveway......

 

[Ignition Override]

How often do you guys/gals every try to touch every visible bit of metal with either a slightly oily patch, or an oily Q-tip?

MY focus is to prevent rust (also) on the internal areas in case the gun sits for two-three years without use.

Besides the guns having been outside in very humid air, salt on our hands supposedly corrodes external areas.

 

[Traffer]

I soak my guns overnight in navel jelly, wood and all!.......JUST KIDDING!.
It depends on why I am cleaning the gun, like many have said, if it is out in the rain snow etc. Tear it down and clean it well. When I use corrosive primer 22lr, I use soap and water for the barrel then dry patch then fine oil. I have tried a lot of non traditional stuff; synthetic ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil, 2 stroke engine oil, acetone and mixes of stuff. But I have tried these things on an old junk 22 rifle. I am more careful with the better guns. Synthetic ATF seems to work OK followed by dry rag and a very fine coating of light weight motor oil. But I will probably have ignited a hell storm here by sharing that.

 

[MaterDei]

Unless I've shot corrosive ammo or my guns have gotten wet I don't ever use solvent or cleaner. I just run a dry snake through the bores and clean up the rest with a towel and some Q tips.

I use remoil or frog lube to lube the gun and coat the exteriors with renaissance wax.

 

[Hummer70]

I make up Ed's Red two gallons at a time for general cleaning and only use the first three items 1/3rd each, Mercon Dexron Transmission Fluid, 1/3 Keresene (I have also used Off Road Diesel w/ good results, 1/3rd Mineral Spirits or Paint Thinner. I don't add the acetone as I get too much on my hands.

Ed's Red is excellent for killing fire ants, lubricating outdoor locks, etc. Won't gum up. I have left it 14 months in a bore stored muzzle down and looked at it with bore scope and still wet.

You can also do as the Swiss Army does and use synthetic grease. I have used Grease Auto and Artillery and Grease Aircraft Wide Temp Range. Place on patch and wrap about 6MM brush for 30 cal. Cut the military patches in half. If you don't want to cut the patches use a 22 cal bore brush and wrap entire patch around. You will be amazed how much black comes out of your bores. The idea with grease is to have a snug fit in bore.

I also use Humpy's White Bore Cleaner which you can google and make yourself. Primarily for copper removal.

 

[matrem]

ZW
Your group size will tell you when you need to use a copper solvent with centerfire rifles.
Depending on your accuracy expectations, some rifles don't make nearly 100 rounds, others (very few IME) can go hundreds before accuracy suffers.