Solvents/lubricants

[thirty_eightLC]

Hey! I have a quick question, and I thought it would be better suited in this forum.

I know there are plenty of threads on what lubricants people use on their semi-automatics but I'd like to hear more about solvents/cleaners. I'm aware of CLP, M-Pro 7, etc.

I'm thinking about buying a Glock and I was wondering how people properly prep the components before lubricating them. I know that a lot of residue doesn't stick to polymer, but what do you all use to clean the rail slides, etc?

How do you clean with CLP? If it's a lubricant as well as a cleaner, wouldn't a lot of the frame get covered when cleaning? Some folk on YouTube spray the hell out of the inside (of the lower) with CLP.

On a 1911, I'm sure Hoppes 9 would be okay, but putting bore cleaner on parts which may come in contact with polymer doesn't seem right.

Are there less aggressive cleaners you'll use?

You can probably tell I'm pretty anal/paranoid about this stuff.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I use home Ed's Red

 

[moxie]

I like Hoppe's #9.

Hickok45 cleans with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. Check youtube.

 

[JTQ]

Most CLP's are polymer safe. I prefer CLP's, but some like a dedicated cleaner, a dedicated lube, and a dedicated protectant. I'm just not that concerned with getting my gun squeaky clean enough to eat off it. I want it clean enough to function properly and nearly every CLP will do that. Some folks use break cleaner (not me), and some of that can be problematic to poly frames. They do make a poly safe version if that's what you're interested in. Most gun specific cleaners are safe for the poly guns.

Glocks are pretty easy to clean and have a very low requirement for lube. Just about anything you use will probably work. Since everything will probably work, I see no reason not to choose a non-toxic product. SLIP 2000 is my current CLP favorite, but there are lots of other fine non-toxic products.

Here is Hickok45 using Ballistol, another non-toxic CLP that I've used, on his Glock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZf4mUM10Vc

I've always liked to link this cleaning tidbit from Schuemann barrels for all the guys that like to scrub the dickens out of their guns. http://www.schuemann.com/Portals/0/Documentation/Webfile_Barrel_Cleaning.pdf

 

[Fremmer]

I would just use CLP on patches and Q-tips for the slide & frame, and a patch/rod of the bore.

I don't think I'd spray a lot of anything anywhere, especially in or near the trigger component and firing pin/channel, but that's just my preference. I use patches dripped with CLP to do most cleaning.

 

[RustyShackelford]

Glocks, cleaning products.....

I've heard and watched a few YouTube videos where Glock owners state Glock armorers suggest doing a complete strip down and soak all the Glock parts in alcohol prior to cleaning, new lube at least once every year.

I'm not sure if this is critical but it's a suggestion. A full tear down with cleaning-inspection isn't a bad idea if you carry or shoot your Glock pistols often.
Lenny Magill, www.glockstore.com offers a lot of Glock stuff and does demo videos too.
For cleaning I've seen a few decent solvents I'd suggest: FireClean, Breakthrough-Clean, Hornady One-Shot, Slip2000, Rand CLP, Italian Gun Grease(IGG), LPX, Weaponshield. Eezox.
Any of those gun care products can help clean or maintain your new Glock.
Note you don't need tons of gun oil or CLP on a Glock. A light amount will prevent rust or problems. Read the Glock owner's manual for tips.
I own a used Glock 21 gen 04 .45acp gen 04. I use Ballistol or Froglube CLP, www.Froglube.com mostly. Both are great for general cleaning, rust prevention. Froglube was R&Ded by a former US Navy special warfare veteran and its non toxic/safe for bare hands. It's available in many locations and online.
I've used the liquid CLP Froglube since 2014 with great results.

Rusty

 

[C0untZer0]

I love lubrication threads !

Grant Cunningham's article:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Corrosion tests:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

For people who like to mix their own stuff up:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

I like Lubriplate:

I've used all sorts of stuff on my Glocks - including the copper anti-seize compound. I've fired my Glocks dry, I've fired them wet and fired them all gooped up on gop:

 

[sauer1911]

I'm in countzero's corner.

I like Peak Synthetic grease, 4 parts and one part Napa copper anti seize.

The small amount of copper reminds me of when I first get a glock and they have a copper compound in their pistols.

be safe

 

[GLOOB]

I brush any visible powder residue on the insides with a dry nylon brush. Then dry paper towels/patches. I'm not even trying to get it all. I'm just trying to get between 75-90% of it, because it will 90% return over the next few outings.

Then I take a gun patch and put one drop of oil on it. Run that around the inside of the hole on the end of the slide, then wipe it completely off with a dry patch. Then I sharpen the end of a wooden Q tip and put the oil-drop patch over it. And run that down each rail to carve out the powder gunk. That takes care of all the lube the rails need, IMO, as well.

Then I wet the end of the sharpened Q tip with oil and rub that on the trigger bar/disconnector interface and work the trigger bar back and forth a coupel times. If I can see any oil beaded there, I wipe it off. That's the only other part of the gun that "needs" any lube, and it really doesn't, either.

Then I put it back together. Aside from cleaning the barrel, I don't put any bit of oil or solvent anywhere else on my Glocks. I shoot 'em a lot, and I have been doing it that way for years. Only I probably leave out one or the other parts most of the time, and I only do this once every 1000 rounds, or so. CountZero's pic makes me cringe.

I don't like cleaning guns, and this is one of the many reasons I shoot my Glocks way more than any of my other handguns.

 

[Doc7]

I use only Hornady One Shot gun cleaner.

 

[dcloco]

A couple of firearm manufacturers do not recommend the froggy stuff - will take the coatings off of barrels & slides.


STOS by Ponsness Warren - 100 % synthetic, very slippery, stays where you put it, and has a very high and low operating temperature.

 

[ugaarguy]

A couple of firearm manufacturers do not recommend the froggy stuff - will take the coatings off of barrels & slides.

That's the first I've heard of this. Can you provide more specific references?

 

[snooperman]

In the past 60 years I have tried many different Cleaners and lubricants, some my wife would not allow anywhere in the house because of odors. The past 10years or so I have been using a natural non toxic CLP called Proshot "one step" that has a citrus smell that is allowed in the house.It is a non petroleum based CLP made from orange peel oil . It is also biodegradable as well. Another along the same line is "Slip 2000".

 

[GAMEOVER44]

I use G96 for my rifles and FP-10 for my handguns. I really like FP-10.

 

[blarby]

A little goes a long way in Glocks.

Too much thick lube can attract lots of fine grit, especially during holster time between stages or just being out and about.

I broke mine in using synthetic 0-20 at the indicated points sparingly, and it worked fine.

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

I have been using Frog Lube for some time now and am fairly pleased.

Is smells MUCH better than other solvents, so the wife doesn't get irritated when cleaning in the house.

Typically, after a match I can take a paper towel and wipe out the crud. Then I use Q-tips and brushes for the rest. So far so good.

 

[kokapelli]

Why would anyone use anything else?

Check it out at Amazon

 

[herrwalther]

I use triple action (CLP etc) gun cleaners. My favorite being G96. It smells the best and is mostly an idiot proof cleaner. Spray on, wait a minute or two. Work into crannies with a brush and wipe off. Second favorite cleaner is military issue CLP with the commercial version (Breakfree) being a close third. I am rather stringent with my gun cleaner and it shows. A can of G96 will last a year or two depending on how much I shoot. Your standard CLP is fine for most cleaning, lube, protecting (hence the acronym). Over the years you may want to pick up a handful of dedicated products.

For example I had a firearm that would have copper fouling, so I have a bottle of Sweet's 7.62. For carry firearms I have a dedicated bottle of Hoppes lube that gets added to the important internals after cleanings and before it goes on my belt.

 

[orionengnr]

For guns that I do not fire frequently, and want the maximum in corrosion protection for, I use Eezox.

For those that will be used and cleaned again soon, especially range or carry handguns, I use Ed's Red.

 

[Walkalong]

If you want something squeaky clean, break it down completely and use the Slip 2000 or MPro 7 cleaners. They are high tech soaps that get everything off. You will have to oil afterwards.

Gunzilla

I have been using it to clean pistol barrels, when I clean them. I like it.

I don't go crazy about cleaning, I just don't let guns get filthy, and keep them oiled up or otherwise protected.

Lot's of things work.

 

[thirty_eightLC]

Thanks for the tip about M-Pro7. I was leaning towards their products and those offered by Mil-Comm due to the separate nature of the cleaner and lubricant in their lineups.

I can't really find any other gun cleaning products that are intended for taking off powder, etc. from the frame slide that don't seem to be a strong bore solvent like Hoppes #9. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'd hate to use bore solvent on a polymer weapon (I'm sure a stainless 1911 or similar would be fine).

I suppose my issue is more so about how to use CLP and some of the myths/truths I've heard about it (different varieties).

How are you supposed to use CLP? I feel that if you spray it on to clean, the surfaces will not only be cleaned but also left with a film of Teflon. I don't want surfaces that don't need to be lubricated or oiled to attract dust/dirt.

I've also heard that some CLPs like Ballistol can't be left on the surface of blued/nickeled weapons because the product eats away at the finish according to the can.

I'm assuming that a product that is effective against copper (like Ballistol) could reach the underling copper layer of a nickeled gun. Am I correct?

If I want to coat the exterior slide of a Glock or another weapon (e.g. Beretta 92) should I just resort to a lighter, gun oil like Rem Oil rather than CLP?

I'm just super paranoid about cleaning weapons. I really don't want to damage the finish, promote rust/oxidation, or take painted markings off.

You can probably tell that I'm equally paranoid about maintaining the finish and paint on my car. :banghead:

 

[LiveLife]

I'm thinking about buying a Glock and I was wondering how people properly prep the components before lubricating them. I know that a lot of residue doesn't stick to polymer, but what do you all use to clean the rail slides, etc?

How do you clean with CLP? I'm sure Hoppes 9 would be okay, but putting bore cleaner on parts which may come in contact with polymer doesn't seem right.

You can probably tell I'm pretty anal/paranoid about this stuff.

No need to be paranoid. I have been using Hoppes #9 solvent and BreakFree CLP on my Glocks for 20+ years without issues.

How do I use them?

I use Hoppes #9 solvent to clean the fouling but will put a small drop of BreakFree wherever metal contacts metal.

 

[gazpacho]

MPro7 all the way.

Read the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on all MPro7 products.

If they are even available, read the MSDS for competing products.

I have been a long time proponent for MPro7 cleaner, first because it is easy one the skin, and doesn't stink up the house. (Good for preventing wife agro.) It's general nontoxic nature was a bonus, until . . .

Recently, I was out in the desert shooting with a bunch of friends. One friend handed my his latest AR Franken-range-toy. 5 rounds sent down range gave me a face full of CLP of the week. Actually, it was some witches brew of motor oil, automatic transmission fluid and horse piss. I'm not exactly sure of the motor oil. What I am sure of is that I was trying to wash the taste out of my mouth for hours. Bourbon mouthwash did the trick, but I had to wait as Bourbon and firearms don't mix well. Don't ask how I know.

Anyway, after that I did a little research into MPro7's other products. Non-toxic across the board. I did the switch, and have been perfectly happy with the results. Unlike soldiers, I don't have to clean my weapons out the in the field. I have the luxury of cleaning my firearms at home. However, I do have a cleaning kit complete with CLP stuffed into the buttstock compartment of all of my ARs (except pistol), should the S hit the fan and I find myself doing the Red Dawn in rural Washington State.

 

[JTQ]

How are you supposed to use CLP? I feel that if you spray it on to clean, the surfaces will not only be cleaned but also left with a film of Teflon.

You don't have to buy the aerosol version. I've used BreakFree for over 30 years, and I've never used the aerosol. I do have the aerosol Ballistol, but also use the liquid. Most of the mentioned CLP's, such as SLIP 2000, Weapon Shield, Gunzilla, etc., don't even come as an aerosol. Most fouling wipes off with a rag.

The poly guys could comment, but I suspect they spend very little time cleaning the frame.

 

[Sav .250]

Reading product directions doesn`t hurt one bit.