Sorting .223 brass by headstamp
- Thread starter Sky King
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For range blasting, no. If you want to get MOA, I have to admit that it did make a difference in my 20" AR. I sorted a bunch of different headstamp brass and worked up accuracy loads for a couple and it did bring the groups down from about 1.5"-2" @ 100 yards to under 1". If it's that important to you, you'll have to realize that optimum accuracy loads will be different for different brass. It may or may not be a big difference, but sometimes it's very measurable.
Personally, I worked backwards from this point. I wanted to get the most accurate load for my gun using a gun vise and scope, then see what the effects of variations in brass, charge weight and bullet type were. If they were considerably less than my own accuracy with iron sights offhand and off sanbags, I was good to go knowing that the gun and the loads were not the limiting factor. I could use any brass and standard loading practices without worrying about loss of accuracy for my needs.
Personally, I worked backwards from this point. I wanted to get the most accurate load for my gun using a gun vise and scope, then see what the effects of variations in brass, charge weight and bullet type were. If they were considerably less than my own accuracy with iron sights offhand and off sanbags, I was good to go knowing that the gun and the loads were not the limiting factor. I could use any brass and standard loading practices without worrying about loss of accuracy for my needs.
[edit] Sorry, I did not mean to repeat information already provided. I just type slow 
This is the way I look at it, others may feel differently.
I think that might depend on your round consistency requirements. For plinking and general use probably not. If you want more consistent performance or are at or near the "never exceed" point for a given load it would be good idea, as various brass mfg have different volumes inside the case, which has an effect on the pressure.
This is the way I look at it, others may feel differently.
I think that might depend on your round consistency requirements. For plinking and general use probably not. If you want more consistent performance or are at or near the "never exceed" point for a given load it would be good idea, as various brass mfg have different volumes inside the case, which has an effect on the pressure.
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thump_rrr
Member
Don't forget that 5.56 brass has approximately 10% less internal case volume than .223 brass.
Therefore a near maximum load in a .223 case will be quite a bit hotter in a 5.56 case.
I separate my cases for .223/5.56 the same goes for .308/7.62x51.
Therefore a near maximum load in a .223 case will be quite a bit hotter in a 5.56 case.
I separate my cases for .223/5.56 the same goes for .308/7.62x51.
Some military 5.56 brass is heavier, and some is lighter than commercial .223, you just have to weigh the cases. My plinking loads are designed to be safe with the heaviest brass in the batch.
For more accuracy minded stuff I like to sort by headstamp/year, or buy good brass.
Most of my .223/5.56 shooting is playing around where mixed brass is just fine.
I bought 500 Blackgun Industries brass on sale for $90.83 for some more accuracy oriented loads and it turned out to be pretty good stuff. It needed trimming/deburring/chamfering as the case mouths were poor, but consistency of weight and concentricity were good.
If I were shooting competition I would get the best brass available.
For more accuracy minded stuff I like to sort by headstamp/year, or buy good brass.
Most of my .223/5.56 shooting is playing around where mixed brass is just fine.
I bought 500 Blackgun Industries brass on sale for $90.83 for some more accuracy oriented loads and it turned out to be pretty good stuff. It needed trimming/deburring/chamfering as the case mouths were poor, but consistency of weight and concentricity were good.
If I were shooting competition I would get the best brass available.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
This is some good dope on the subject. While I separate my cases because I like uniformity and load for accuracy. The article makes a real good point right about where it covers:
I have been burned by that with pet loads.
<EDIT> I started typing this about 5:20 PM and it took me till 5:41 to get it posted during which time Walkalong covered it well.
</EDIT>Ron
snuffy
Member
I sort ALL my rifle brass, especially .223. There's just too much variance between all the hundreds of different manuf.
For handgun, sometimes I sort. Range blasting ammo for 9mm is always mixed brass. I get the brass from a vendor @ Amazon, it's all cleaned and shiny,(I suspect it's ultrasonic cleaned), but there is at least 30 different headstamps in a 500 round small FLB.
If I'm doing a load work-up, that's a different story. I will sort for an American headstamp, usually there's enough WIN or R-P in a box for 100 cases. I stay away from FED, no real reason, just don't like it.
If I'm having a problem hitting something, I may sit down, run 5 or ten rounds at a clean target to verify the load is consistent. I then go through the box of ammo, picking the same headstamp from the mix. I just eliminated the variance of different headstamps, sort of instant match ammo!
For handgun, sometimes I sort. Range blasting ammo for 9mm is always mixed brass. I get the brass from a vendor @ Amazon, it's all cleaned and shiny,(I suspect it's ultrasonic cleaned), but there is at least 30 different headstamps in a 500 round small FLB.
If I'm doing a load work-up, that's a different story. I will sort for an American headstamp, usually there's enough WIN or R-P in a box for 100 cases. I stay away from FED, no real reason, just don't like it.
If I'm having a problem hitting something, I may sit down, run 5 or ten rounds at a clean target to verify the load is consistent. I then go through the box of ammo, picking the same headstamp from the mix. I just eliminated the variance of different headstamps, sort of instant match ammo!
dragon813gt
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I sort all rifle and revolver brass by headstamp. All rifle brass is checked for internal case capacity, not weight.
savagemann
Member
I would sort it for sure, but I like to do it BEFORE doing any work to the brass as there are brands I don't like to use or waste processing.
Ironicaintit
Member
I don't bother with sorting until after they're all loaded up.
Meaning, I prep and load them all regardless of head stamp, but as I'm putting them away, I have them all together.
The only exception being in when I'm developing a load. Then I like to build the tests around one brand (one less variable)
Or if I run across a head stamp I've never encountered, I'll weigh it and sometimes actually measure the capacity.
Then I'll make a note as to which other headstamps to lump it in with.
My loads aren't typically at the ragged edge of sanity, and I'm not a bench rest shooter, so...
Meaning, I prep and load them all regardless of head stamp, but as I'm putting them away, I have them all together.
The only exception being in when I'm developing a load. Then I like to build the tests around one brand (one less variable)
Or if I run across a head stamp I've never encountered, I'll weigh it and sometimes actually measure the capacity.
Then I'll make a note as to which other headstamps to lump it in with.
My loads aren't typically at the ragged edge of sanity, and I'm not a bench rest shooter, so...
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