ZekeLuvs1911
Member
I'm looking to get a good spotting scope but I've been confused by all the designations in their product description. Can someone explain them to me? I am looking to do target shooting at around 300-900ft. Thanks!
Spotting Scopes
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nemesis
Member
Buy one with the largest objective lens that you can afford. I don't care what the range or maximum magnification of the scope is. Observing through the eyepiece of a small-objective scope at maximum magnification at mid-day on a sunny day is like peering at night.
If you invest in a cheap spotting scope, you will soon be buying a better and more expensive one. There ain't no such thing as a free lunch in scopes. You might want to look at what Cabela's offers as a compromise. They used to have some fairly good scopes at fair prices.
Don't assess scopes by their magnification, look at the objective lens size.
If you invest in a cheap spotting scope, you will soon be buying a better and more expensive one. There ain't no such thing as a free lunch in scopes. You might want to look at what Cabela's offers as a compromise. They used to have some fairly good scopes at fair prices.
Don't assess scopes by their magnification, look at the objective lens size.
ZekeLuvs1911
Member
What I mean is what do the specifications that appear in the product description mean? How does objective lens size function? What do those numbers represent? Thanks.
EchoSixMike
Member
Buy a 77 or 82mm Kowa and be done with it. You can blow even more on a Leica,Swarowski or Optilyth, but you've reached the point of diminishing returns IMO. S/F...Ken M
The size of the objective lens determines the amount of light that is admitted, and therefore, how 'bright' your view will be. For example, a Simmons 30mm objective compared to a Leica 77mm will be like looking at a target at dusk compared to a target held in a searchlight. You'll be able to see holes at 300yd with a Leica 77, you won't hardly be able to find your target because of mirage with the Simmons 30.
When faced with the choice of a Simmons 50mm or a Leupold 50mm, go with the better glass lens (Leupold); the image will be more crisp and clear. You'll be able to see the rings on your target at 200 yd with the Leupold; you probably won't with the Simmons 50.
(Take into consideration that my specific scope examples except for the Leica 77 are hypothetical. I don't know if there are Simmons 30's and 50's nor Leupold 50's out there; I'm just using hypothetical examples.) My suggestion is to go to a big camera store or nature store (like REI) and sample the different scopes; the camera stores around here allowed me to leave my wallet and let me take a scope out to the sidewalk to check it out. Look at things like long-distance license plate screws. Remember that they'll be at least twice as big as a .30 hole.
A friend and I did a side-by-side; the Leica 77 (no Televid) are really great; try and find one to test. You can find them used with the angled 20-60x eyepiece for ~ $7-800 with some patience; that's not much more than a new Kowa.
By the way, for definitions, I'll do my best:
field of view: the measurement (expressed as a diameter) of how much of the object area one can see when looking through the scope
Eye Relief: either a minimum or maximum distance from the eyepiece that one must maintain the eye, in order to see the entire field without parallax
Parallax: the layman's version: This phenomenon is manifested optically as the 'shadow' around the edge of the field of view as one looks through the scope. Adjustable parallax scope allow the user to 'adjust out' most of the shadow around the edges. Eye movement/placement adjusts the rest.
Exit pupil: expressed in millimeters usually, this is the size of the image at the eyepiece end. As I recall, the human eye cannot expand any larger than 7mm (?), and any larger image inherent in the eyepiece is wasted.
Objective diameter: size of the front lens (theoretically the larger the better)
Close focus: the minimum distance that the scope can resolve objects
When faced with the choice of a Simmons 50mm or a Leupold 50mm, go with the better glass lens (Leupold); the image will be more crisp and clear. You'll be able to see the rings on your target at 200 yd with the Leupold; you probably won't with the Simmons 50.
(Take into consideration that my specific scope examples except for the Leica 77 are hypothetical. I don't know if there are Simmons 30's and 50's nor Leupold 50's out there; I'm just using hypothetical examples.) My suggestion is to go to a big camera store or nature store (like REI) and sample the different scopes; the camera stores around here allowed me to leave my wallet and let me take a scope out to the sidewalk to check it out. Look at things like long-distance license plate screws. Remember that they'll be at least twice as big as a .30 hole.
A friend and I did a side-by-side; the Leica 77 (no Televid) are really great; try and find one to test. You can find them used with the angled 20-60x eyepiece for ~ $7-800 with some patience; that's not much more than a new Kowa.
By the way, for definitions, I'll do my best:
field of view: the measurement (expressed as a diameter) of how much of the object area one can see when looking through the scope
Eye Relief: either a minimum or maximum distance from the eyepiece that one must maintain the eye, in order to see the entire field without parallax
Parallax: the layman's version: This phenomenon is manifested optically as the 'shadow' around the edge of the field of view as one looks through the scope. Adjustable parallax scope allow the user to 'adjust out' most of the shadow around the edges. Eye movement/placement adjusts the rest.
Exit pupil: expressed in millimeters usually, this is the size of the image at the eyepiece end. As I recall, the human eye cannot expand any larger than 7mm (?), and any larger image inherent in the eyepiece is wasted.
Objective diameter: size of the front lens (theoretically the larger the better)
Close focus: the minimum distance that the scope can resolve objects
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CTI1USNRET
Member
I've been using a Bushnell Sportview 20-60x 60mm spotting scope and am satisfied. Cost about $100. I can see the 1 inch gridlines on a zeroing target out to 200 yards. That's plenty good enough for me. For casual shooting, the combination of Shoot-N-C targets and this scope will satisfy 99 out of a 100 shooters. Buying an $800 spotting scope is a waste of $700 which could buy another rifle.
CTI1USNRET
Member
There's an easy cure for trying to see dark holes in a dark target. Hang a white sheet behind the target. I just staple it loosely to the back of the frame allowing it to flutter a bit. That way the holes don't line up. Then I rip it off when I'm done. It'll last a long time. Sure beats a dark berm as a background.
Mo_Zam_Beek
Member
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- Sep 4, 2003
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Nemisis - respectfully I disagree. Between the book Precision Shooting At 1,000 Yards and Plaster's book: Ultimate Sniper - I think there are roughly 40 pages of what to look for with respect to optics. Objective size - plays apart in light transmission - but it is not the sole determining factor. Additionally, large objectives, prolonged usage and bright days all make for hard times for one's eyes. FWIW.
Zeke - 300 - 900 FEET? Not yards? Save yourself some money - view a few of the lower priced spotters ~ like a Loopy WindRiver - this is about all you will need. Anything less than $300 probably isn't all that much better than one for $100; be concious of warranties at these price points. I you want to go whole hog, you will be over $1,000 in a heart beat.
Zeke - 300 - 900 FEET? Not yards? Save yourself some money - view a few of the lower priced spotters ~ like a Loopy WindRiver - this is about all you will need. Anything less than $300 probably isn't all that much better than one for $100; be concious of warranties at these price points. I you want to go whole hog, you will be over $1,000 in a heart beat.
B Sigmon
Member
I'll put in a vote for Kowa - I have the 82mm with the 40 - 60 zoom.
In competition I can see 22 cal holes in the black at 200 yds. Other guy can't see 30 cal in the black with their scopes.
Bob Sigmon
In competition I can see 22 cal holes in the black at 200 yds. Other guy can't see 30 cal in the black with their scopes.
Bob Sigmon
nemesis
Member
You are within your rights to disagree but I point this out. I didn't form my opinions on spotting scopes from reading a book, I formed my opinion after going through dozens of scopes and over forty years of shooting.
I've read Plasters books but I'm not a sheep and I form my own opinion.
In your own experience, what has worked best?
Stevie-Ray
Member
Well, mine is a Tasco, 15-45X that cost me a whopping 39 bucks, and I've never wanted another.
Graystar
Member
I have a Nikon Sky & Earth 15-45 X 60. It lets in enough light to see clearly at the indoor range, but it doesn't kill your eyes out in the bright sunshine. The Nikon optics are crystal clear. epinions.com list several places that sell them starting at $250.
http://www.nikonusa.com/usa_product/product.jsp?cat=4&grp=15&productNr=7351
http://www.nikonusa.com/usa_product/product.jsp?cat=4&grp=15&productNr=7351
C.R.Sam
Moderator Emeritus
Another satisfied Kowa user.
Lot of bang for the buck.
Angle eyepiece worth the extra bucks in a match.
And have had a fair number of assorted scopes.
Including sellin Nikon and Leupold.
Sam
Lot of bang for the buck.
Angle eyepiece worth the extra bucks in a match.
And have had a fair number of assorted scopes.
Including sellin Nikon and Leupold.
Sam
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