Springfield 1842 smoothbore musket

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dlon21

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My latest find is this 1842 Springfield musket. I need info from you guys about which ball size I need, powder load, patch thickness and so forth. This is an original with an 1853 date on the lock. .69 cal.

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.662 round ball, .020 Pillow ticking patch and 80 grains of FFg black powder. Original loads were 85 grains of Fg and a .662 round ball and three 00 buckshot (buck & ball) or 90 grains of Fg and a single .662 ball in a paper cartridge. Paper was rammed home with the ball to keep it from falling out. You will know if the powder takes fire.

I also load about 70 grains of FFg, a 1/8" 14 gage over powder wad and one once of #6shot for small game hunting.
 
Ok, sounds good. DGW has set of blocks in .662, so I guess I will get a set of those. Only thing to do before shooting is to get the breech plug and nipple out. I bought this gun from antiqueguns.com.
 
Uh, unless you're a gunsmith with a good barrel vise, or you're just a glutton for punishment, there's no good reason to remove the breech plug.
 
Don't pull the breech plug. If you are worried, have it magnafluxed at an auto shop.
 
After all these years, it will be about impossible to remove the breech plug without damaging it and/or the barrel. I advise leaving it alone.

Jim
 
The problem with original barrels is that there might be corrosion inside that has weakened the metal, particularly in the breech end. This could well have happened if the musket was stored in damp conditions in a vertical position, allowing moisture to collect in the breech. Such a condition really can't be checked without pulling the breech plug, and pulling the breech plug in a gun that old, even with the proper tools, will probably be difficult without causing damage. For this reason, it's not a good idea, safety-wise, to shoot an original barrel. Exact replacement barrels are available from places like Whitacre's Machine Shop, in Winchester, Va. You can install the replacement for shooting, and then put back the original barrel for the collection.

I made up a hybrid original/repro 1842 musket for reenacting. I used an original Harpers Ferry lock, original furniture, a barrel from Whitacre's, and a stock from Dunlap's. This musket, made strictly to original specs, is much more "authentic" than the current 100% reproductions. In fact it would be hard to tell it from an original.
 
What AlexanderA suggests. Save the original barrel for display and shoot a repro barrel instead. Or if you have the ducats, get a repro and shoot that
 
Although it could be dangerous to fire it's also very possible that it's perfectly fine.
At least dlon21 has been made aware of the possibilities and can take the rifle in person to consult with an expert who knows all of the ins and outs of these old guns.
 
Thanks for your advice guys. I'm not exactly new to bp after four years of shooting. A new barrel a restricted part, might as well buy a repro gun then. If it is as sound as it looks, it will be shot.
 
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Pulling the breech plug is possible if the barrel is in half-way good condition. First, make absolutely sure it is not loaded (many of them are) Then soak the breech end in penetrating oil for about a week. Using a proper barrel vise and correct breech plug wrench and a bit of well-directed heat (propane torch will do) the plug should come out without any damage to itself or the barrel. I have pulled hundreds of originals this way. If it resists ordinary efforts put it back in the penetrating oil bath for another week. After it comes appart carefully inspect the threads inside and out. If they appear seriously eroded, relegate the barrel to display only and don't shoot it. If the threads are in good shape, treat them with a good anti-sieze compound before reassembling. Same is true for the nipple.
 
It's not loaded, first thing I checked when I opened the package! I'm going to use a penetrating oil first for a while, and try after that. Overall the gun looks very crisp. Used a propane torch to loosen the nipple five minutes ago, so the plug may also come loose with some preparation I hope. When I replace a breech plug I usually just slab some grease in the threads and tighten it only with hand force.
 
You can never really know. Even with the plug out you can't tell if there is some inherent weakness in the metal of the sidewall until it gives. I'd also vote to carefully remove and set aside original breach and barrel and if you want to shoot it get a replacement b&b and smith it into place. Then you're ready to go.
 
The barrel is not Damascus and some folks reportedly fire the Napalese Enfield relics which are usually sold in dire need of all kinds of restoration work.
These 1842's were fired in the civil war and many folks are still firing guns that are much older than that.
It's also very possible that the gun is flawless.
dlon21 is fortunate to be given the opportunity to put it into service and I think that the gun should be given a chance to fulfill its destiny. :)
 
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I guess that the above info would apply to my African Trade Musket. It appears to have an 1842 musket barrel (converted for flintlock) and bands, but a lock modified from an Austrian 1849 Fruwirth rifle. The trigger guard and butt plate are also Austrian, but the hammer, frizzen, and other small parts appear to be French.

Belgian, of course.
 
I guess we'll know how it works after I've fired it and upload it on youtube. The barrel looks very lightly spotted, and ok at the breech.
 
dlon21

Nice looking gun and great photos! Does this musket have a rear sight? I seem to recall a sort of wallowed out hump on the breech plug. Is that correct? If so could you post a photo of that?

I am sorry that some here in the Wild West can not seem to grasp that for you, as with most folks on your side of the pond, that buying a new barrel is as frought with paperwork and regulations as buying an entire new modern gun.

I would, if I could risk lossing such a find, after inspecting the barrel as best as I could shoot the first few rounds from a remote rest of some type by pulling a string to the trigger from behind cover.


-kBob
Florida, USA (and this time of year very happy with my location!)
 
kBob

Nope, there is no rear sight on this gun. Well, I clearly wrote earlier that a new barrel is a restricted part. If I wanted to shoot a modern gun, I'd buy a replica which also require a license. Do you have any antiques like my 1842?

I'll bet it's really nice weather in Florida right now? We have winter here, of course, but very mild and almost no snow. I can't wait to get out my bike next summer, but that's a couple of months from now.
 
Oh, the breech plug is marked 1846, and the lock 1853. Some kind of battlefield mismatch perhaps?
 
dlon21,

With many Americam Military arms, barrels were made in different shops and locks in others. The barrel,stock, and lock was mated up in the final assembly. Also it was not unusual for guns to be returned to the Arsenal and be completely disassembled, locks in one bin, barrels in another, Stocks and furniture in a third. Later, parts are reassembled with no attention to matching, just a bit of hand fitting and out the door.

I have an original "1842" musket with 1847 on the breech of the barrel and 1851 on the lock plate.
 
So, the breech plug came out today. Without heat. Now I'm going to order a mould or blocks and cast some big balls and shoot this beast in a while.
 
before you get your mold slug your barrel. my barrel is a true 690. I shot a 685 out of it. no patch.(patchs not allowed in N-SSA. Comp.) 685 69 grn 2ffg. diped trice. w/ my lube. one big ragged hole at 50 yrds off the bench. can get 10 rounds off w/ out brushing it out.
 
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