Springfield GI .45 customization

[DustyVermonter]

I bought a springfield GI .45 1911A1 and am now a little disapointed that I didn't get the Para GI expert or even the taurus PT1911. Are there any upsides to buying this one as oppsosed to the other 2? Any customizing tips that I could use to make it a better gun? I guess I just want a general opinion, good or bad.

 

[Tallinar]

The Springfield GI is regarded as one of the best "base" guns to begin customizing from. They are well-built to correct spec dimensions and Springfield uses forged frames and slides. Definitely nothing wrong with that gun.

 

[Red Tornado]

Lots of things 'might' make it better, but it all depends on your use. Go shoot it a bunch and see what you want/need to customize on it. If you get slide bite, add a beavertail. If you can't see the sights, upgrade them, etc. There are hundreds of things you 'could' do, but until you know if you need them, don't waste the money.
Have fun,
RT

 

[KodiakBeer]

Upgrade the sights and install a flat mainspring housing and it's done. I have no idea why people want bigger beavertails on a 1911 - is it supposed to be "tactical"?

 

[JTQ]

I would have picked the Springfield over the other two. Admittedly, the MilSpec would be a better comparison, mostly because it has sights that as good as the Para and the Taurus.

Springfield has a better warrantee than the other two and a long track record of producing a quality product.

Para seems to be having some teething problems with the move to the US (North Carolina from Canada) and the GI which is a departure from the typical Para designs, no wide body, no LDA, no ramped barrel. Para is also known for less than durable finishes on their other than stainless pistols.

Taurus 1911's have a mixed reputation. Some folks love them, some have had nothing but problems. They don't have the track record of the Springfield so it's hard to tell where they will end up.

 

[Doogledog]

That's how I learned what little I know about 1911's. I bought a SA champion GI and tinkered with it until I got what I wanted. I don't really know why but I like a larger beavertail. I guess it does look "cool". Just make sure you get the right tools when you change the sights or add a beavertail. I've added an extended safety and new thinner wood grips since that last pixture that really help the looks to me.

 

[Greg528iT]

As to the beavertail vs non bearver tail. I personally like the beavertail grip safety as it leaves less of a "bite" on the web between the thumb and hand. Maybe the traditional grip safetey had too sharp of an edge but after a couple hundred rounds, my skin was not happy. My father in law, last time I took him shooting, the slim grip safety left his hand bleeding. YES, he was older (early 70s) diabetic, and thus his skin was extremeley fragile. Both his 1911 and mine bit my thumb web. I now have a beavertail on mine.

 

[KodiakBeer]

I personally like the beavertail grip safety as it leaves less of a "bite" on the web between the thumb and hand.

The standard beavertail and the extended beavertail both have the same width at the point the web of your hand meets the gun - they have to because that's where it fits into the projection on the frame.
I've also had people tell me that a big beavertail allows a higher hand grip, which doesn't make sense either, because the height of the grip is dictated by the same projection on the frame that either beavertail pivots on.

I dunno... I don't think changing the beavertail has any practical application whatsoever. It may look better to some eyes, and that's a good enough reason to change it since people can and should customize their guns to their own taste. But from a practical standpoint, I don't think it does anything.

I've got an original M1911 (prior to the A1 version) with an even tinier beavertail, and even it doesn't bite or feel any different when shooting.

If you like the look, do it. But I'd worry about upgrading those GI sights and getting a flat mainspring housing before worrying about aesthetics. Maybe consider a trigger job as well?

 

[Greg528iT]

Kodiak,

Where the most fwd portion of the web contacts the grip safety, yes. BUT

Where the grip safety extends over the web and I suppose one might call the back of your hand (I still call the web) As you can see by the picture, the grip safety is NOT as wide as a beavertail.... AND has sharp edges (relatively). Yes I coulda taken a dremel tool to that protion, but why when I can get a beavertail that is nicely rounded.

I did grip the pistol higher and tighter for dramatic effect but. you see.

Would tougher / rougher skin help? sure.. My wife likes my hands the way they are.

 

[Ratdog68]

A good trigger, a beaver tail safety, an extended magazine release button for starters. Sights, if you're not happy with how they align for you. I like the extended manual safety on mine. When I was carrying it on duty, I liked the Pachmyar grips.

 

[KodiakBeer]

I did grip the pistol higher and tighter for dramatic effect but. you see.

Well, don't do that!

I don't see it as an issue, but I'm not you. I have a Kimber Compact with a big beavertail, and a 1911 Remington UMC without one. Neither one bites. The GI Springfield has the actual old GI sights, and that's the first thing I'd worry about.

 

[Drail]

If you have hands that can hold and fire a 1911 with a G.I. grip safety and never get bit you are a very lucky person. The majority of people do get bit. A beavertail will allow a higher grip and will get your hand closer to the bore line (a good thing) but the biggest advantage is it allows most folks to shoot many more rounds before the web of their hand gets tired of having a grip safety with sharp square edges on it slammed into the web of their hand. A lot of G.I. grip safeties leave the factory with sharp square edges that can become pretty irritating after awhile. A beavertail contacts the web of your hand with nice smooth round surfaces. They also make fast draw work much smoother. This is why they are so popular. It really has little to do with "tacticool looks".

 

[Greg528iT]

I've also had people tell me that a big beavertail allows a higher hand grip, which doesn't make sense either

I did grip the pistol higher and tighter

Well, don't do that!

I could grip lower on the butt to reduce contact of the grip safety and thus reduce bite (chafing (sic)) but that would also increase the distance from the bore centerline to my hand. With a beavertail, I can comfortably jamb my hand as high as I can, reducing that distance. I guess another option is to wear "tactical gloves". I did once or twice.. felt it "looked like a poser".. YIKES not that.

 

[KodiakBeer]

Drail: If you have hands that can hold and fire a 1911 with a G.I. grip safety and never get bit you are a very lucky person. The majority of people do get bit.

I've been shooting them for most of my life, right alongside other people who shoot them. Went through the usual boot camp drill with the old 1911A1's, used them on drug boardings all over the Caribbean, Bought, sold, swapped and built them from parts along with buddies who did the same thing. I've never seen anyone "bit" by one.

I think the hammer bite is a myth. Greg points out that if you shoot a lot of rounds, some people might get chafed by the narrower tail on the GI model, and that's probably true for some people (though not for me or anyone I've known).

I think the myth derives from the original M1911, before they extended the tail and changed the hammer in 1911A1 model. Possibly some people were affected in that model, but you know, I've got one of those also and it hasn't bit me or any of my family or friends that have shot it over the years. So, I'd guess that even with the original M1911, it was only an issue with a small minority of people.

Personally, I'd like to see a compact carry gun with the original M1911 hammer and tail. It would shorten the pistol slightly, and give a cleaner draw.

 

[DustyVermonter]

I flipped through a brownells catalog and decided that I love the original 'GI' look and don't really want to change the appearance of the gun, although I'm torn between the original 'US' grips it came with or putting buck stag antler grips on it. But after a lot of consideration and what I've heard on here I'm definitely going to get a flat mainspring housing and a new trigger job. Also, I didn't see anybody suggest a full length guide rod, I'm planning on putting on one of those wilson combat full length guide rods with recoil buffer pads. Any reasons not to put a full length guide rod on? Not concerned with the beavertail grip safety, maybe its the dimensions of my big hands but it has never once bothered me.
So that's about it, I don't want to change the appearance of the gun (aside from the flat MS housing). Lastly, do I need a gunsmith for any of the upgrades mentionned above? Also, I've managed to scratch the finish in a few innocuous places but if it gets too bad will springfield redo it or are there any options as far as restoring the finish?

 

[DustyVermonter]

One upgrade that's already made a huge difference is a Chip Mcormick 8rd mag, man do these things look and feel smooth. Is $28.95 a good deal for these because I'm thinkin about gettin a couple more tomorrow, that extra round really makes a difference on how I feel about carrying the gun, so doesn't reading people's post's on this model. I definitely feel a lot better about this gun now as opposed to the para and taurus. Also I keep seeing threads regarding people having problems with their high end, big $ race guns so I'm not too concerned with my box stock, bare bones "Tool" anymore so thanks for 'enlightening' me.

 

[DustyVermonter]

Oh yea, I definitely can't get with these super lo-pro sights, very hard to pick up follow up shots for me even in broad daylight. So to review, I'm putting full length guide rod w/ recoil pads, new trigger,flat MS housing and sights. Being as I don't have gunsmithing tools about how much would it cost to have these things installed (labor only) ?

 

[Hacker15E]

Full length guide rod -- why?

 

[DustyVermonter]

Well, I was watching a youtube video on a guy who was doing a rundown of his sprinfield GI and he seemed to be in quite a hurry to put a full length guide rod on his. Also, the description in brownells stated that it would increase service life and slide to frame contact would not be as harsh and faster lock-up time would be achieved. Why? Is this not a sensible upgrade? I thought it was always a good thing to have a full length guide rod and was something that the box stock GI models didn't have because of authenticity. Is the full length guide rod not an improvement? Please explain

 

[KodiakBeer]

Read this: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BTT/is_147_24/ai_62655365/

I think you're right on target with sights, MS Housing and trigger job. Grips are entirely an aesthetic thing, so get whatever you think looks nice.

One other upgrade that I prefer is to to stick about $2 worth of skateboard tape to the front of the grip just to give you better purchase for rapid fire shooting. Any skateboard or outdoor sports shop carries it.

 

[DustyVermonter]

But not the full length guide rod? Somebody plz explain why a Full length guide rod would not be an improvement

 

[DustyVermonter]

Nevermind, sorry I didn't read that until after I asked the question. Scratch that

 

[Tallinar]

But not the full length guide rod? Somebody plz explain why a Full length guide rod would not be an improvement

The FLGR is the answer to a non-existent problem for the 1911. Supposedly, it prevents the recoil spring from getting bound up, but I have yet to ever meet someone who has experienced such a problem.

Furthermore, it adds steps and tools to the field strip process. Also, two piece FLGRs are notoriorious for having their threads come loose during shooting.

There is no explainable evidence (that I've encountered or witnessed, anyway) that demonstrates any sort of accuracy or consistency gained from the use of a FLGR. Some people think they look cool, and if that's the case, to each his own.

It's a solution looking for a problem. I had a Springfield Loaded model, and I ended up replacing the two piece FLGR with a standard GI rod and plug. I experienced no performance difference whatsoever.

If you really favor the FLGRs, I would highly suggest you get a one piece. But my first advice would be to stick with a GI recoil system.

 

[DustyVermonter]

So there is really no downfall to having a full length guide rod. It seems like maybe it would help the slide shoot straight back and help reduce that little bit of side to side play that could cause ware. And the article said that the 0.25" doesn't seem like it would make a difference. Well I'm no expert but it seems like even though its only 0.25" it could very well make all the difference. I don't know, that's only one guys opinion and so long as there is no drawback ill probably get one, if not ill probably put a recoil buffer on the GI rod at the very least. The FL rods aren't that expensive and if I don't like it for 'ANY' reason ill just put the GI part back in. Unless somebody can convince me that its a bad idea. Thanks for the input though, you definitely got me thinkin about it.

 

[Tallinar]

So there is really no downfall to having a full length guide rod. It seems like maybe it would help the slide shoot straight back and help reduce that little bit of side to side play that could cause ware.

The slide's range of motion is already limited by the rails. The barrel's range of motion is already limited by the bushing and slide release. The sideways play you're referring to (however miniscule and unmeasurable it may be) will still exist with a FLGR. The guide rod in a 1911 simply sits back up against the barrel lugs. Nothing "locks" it in place back by the barrel.

You are correct that there is no downfall in using a FLGR. Personally, I don't like them because they add unnecessary complexity to the field strip process. FLGR's necessitate the use of a tool to field strip. The standard recoil system requires no tools to field strip. But obviously, this concern has nothing to do with the actual shooting of the gun. HOWEVER, if you get a two piece FLGR, keep in mind that the threads often do come loose as you shoot. This CAN actually become a problem if the front of your guide rod somehow works itself out of place while shooting. You'll quickly find yourself investing in Loctite of some sort. So if you have to have one, I encourage you to get a one piece.

Just remember that phrase: "solution in search of a problem." There's nothing wrong with liking them, but it's truly going to be more aesthetic than anything. EDIT: Let me rephrase. It is going to be purely aesthetic.