Springfield GI .45 customization

[DustyVermonter]

Will Springfield re-parkerize it for me if it gets too bad? If not are there any DIY options to make it 'pretty'. Also, is the trigger and MS housing something I can do myself with some instruction or am I gonna need to pay a gunsmith and if so about how much would it cost? (Labor)
Lastly, would applying a grease such as GAA(grease automotiveand artillery) or plastilube or lubriplate be better than using Oil?

 

[Tallinar]

I do believe that Springfield offers re-finishing services for a price. As I recall, it's very reasonable. I've actually heard stories of people returning a gun to Springfield for replacement parts or custom work and having the gun returned with the slide and frame re-finished.

Not something to expect of course, but it definitely speaks well of their customer service.

 

[Tallinar]

Actually, according to their website, if I am reading their worksheet correctly, they will re-park the entire gun for $80.

Go to this link and click on the 1911-A1 Custom Worksheet
http://www.springfield-armory.com/custom.php

As far as DIY for the MS housing and trigger job, I guess you should kinda yield to your own gunsmithing experience and confidence. Both could require some minimal fitting work. Personally, I wouldn't be confident enough to do it, and would be willing to pay someone to do it for me.

Grease vs. oil for 1911 lubrication is one of those never-ending preference debates. I would encourage you to do some google searches about that and read some of the endless debates in various forums. I concluded from all that reading that it really doesn't make a difference and boils down to preference -- just like all other "what type of oil should I use" topics. There's too many possible answers, and none of them necessarily bad.

I settled on FP-10 oil for all parts in my 1911 that require lube. It was the first thing I used and I found no reason to change. Some guys use oil in all places except the rails, in which they use grease. Really. Doesn't. Matter, IMO.

Check out www.1911forum.com also. Those guys eat, sleep, and breath all things 1911, and you'll find some great reading there.

 

[DustyVermonter]

Allright, definitely rethinkin the whole FLGR issue. Probably just gonna keep my $30 if its virtually useless, thanks for the re-direction.

Its good to know that SA has a refinishing service, ill probably use the money I would have spent on a FLGR and get it refinished after it gets a little beat after the summer. Thanks folks, this has been very helpful.....some of the feedback I receive from some threads has been very low-road and useless.

 

[KodiakBeer]

The mainspring housing is something anyone can do. The sights are something that you can also do, but since it's so cheap and easy for a gunsmith with the proper tools, it's best left to them.

Don't do the trigger job yourself. That is best left to a gunsmith.

It's been a while, so maybe somebody will correct me if prices have gone up, but I'd think the sight installation would cost about $30 and the trigger job about $75. I wouldn't worry about buying a new match trigger, I'd just have the stock trigger lightened and tuned.

The sky is the limit, so if you later want to build it into a match gun you can get all the bells and whistles like a match barrel, trigger, sights, etc. But, I think you'll find the stock gun will be extremely accurate with just good sights and trigger work alone.

 

[DustyVermonter]

Huh, $80 seems a little steep for a re-park. Especially since ive only had the gun six months and only shot it once and had it in the holster it came with a couple of times and is already lookin a little haggard. Im not even too sure about how good parkerized finishes really are, I've got a parkerized shotgun and it didn't really hold a smooth finish for very long either. I am very particular about keeping my guns in flawless condition and I'm trying to get over that and look at them for what they are, tools that perform a specific job but I can't help but cringe when one of my guns slides and bumps another gun in my safe and it knicks it.

I love springfields now though, I never had any until about 6 months back. I bought 2 the same day from 2 different shops, when I left my house that day I had no intention of buying any new guns but somehow I came home with 2 springfields, a GI 1911 and a M1A scout squad. Its a beautiful thing. So far I'm pretty impressed with what I've heard about their customer service. There is a lot to be said for a company that not only makes an excellent product but will also back it up. Just happy now that's all

 

[Tallinar]

I would really urge you to not be too concerned about the finish. It really isn't something you should have to have re-done but maybe once or twice in a lifetime. A little bit of wear shows character. Furthermore, you're eventually going to have to face the fact that you're bound to get small knicks on EVERY gun you own -- unless it's simply a safe queen or a display piece. Learn to love it.

You might consider doing some research about blued vs parkerized finish. There's certainly nothing wrong with parkerizing. There are advantages to each. Again, it will boil down to one of those preference things. If you take care of your guns regardless, then you shouldn't notice too much of a functional difference at all.

As for swapping the trigger on your GI, I would say there are definitely certain advantages in replacement triggers. You can certainly lighten the trigger pull of the current trigger by doing some tuning. However, the physical length of the trigger can make a world of difference for some people.

I've owned both a Springfield Mil-Spec and a Springfield Loaded. The Loaded model has a longer "match" trigger installed on it, which was a lot more comfortable for me as it placed the face of the trigger far enough away from my grip that finger placement on the trigger felt a lot more intuitive; whereas with the shorter GI trigger, I could never decide how much I should "wrap" my finger around the face of the trigger (I'm not sure that makes any sense, but that's the best I can explain it).

If you have no complaints about the length and feel of the current trigger, and just want to make it a smoother pull, you may just want to tune the existing one.

 

[gb6491]

If not are there any DIY options to make it 'pretty'

If you have a means to do abrasive blasting, parkerizing is a very doable DIY finish. Here's a SA1911 that I parkerized in my garage:

Regards,
Greg

 

[DustyVermonter]

Tallinar, I do like the current stock trigger that's on it as far as finger placement goes, its just a little heavy, between 5-6lbs but I imagine I'd like to have it somewhere between 3.5-4lbs. Is there any way I could lightly tune it down a little myself? When I first shot it I thought I hadn't taken the safety off, it was pretty heavy.

Greg, That's a hell of a DIY park-job. However,I should probably leave it to the pros because I don't know how to leave stuff alone and end up takin things to far when it comes to that stuff.

 

[Greg528iT]

Parker was developed as a tougher coating to replace bluing. As I have read it's thicker more granular in nature. Why sometimes a parker finish can be kind of course looking. While better than unfinished steel, it still requires oil to help keep the moisture out. Think of it as a sponge with holes in it, to hold the gun oil next to the frame. It is of course not perfect, and will show wear. But then, wear shows that you actually shoot the thing. I'd not worry about the finish as long as it's mostly intact.

I have a Springer Ultra Compact on order in Stainless. I'm hoping that my bigger oopsies I can buff out at home. Clean, oil and use. My local shop had a Rock Island 3.5" comapct last month. I passed it by, due to, it had a rougher parker finish than I like, would have ended up sending for black nickle, and the biggest, the sites were military and would have required me to have Novak sites cut into the slide. Those two would have put me past what I have on order with the Loaded Springer.

As for the full length guide rod. There are lots of people against here on this board. The sales pitch for, I've seen.. by controling the spring by a rod internal (closer fit to the ID of the spring) is more consistant than controling it by the OD of the spring, more room in the frame, thus allowing the spring to bend more..... Frankly, it makes sense that the action of the spring would be more consistant with a FLGR. Enough that we'd notice? Maybe not. Certainly can't hurt. I think I've seen more complaints that a FLGR requires a tool or more time to strip. UMMMM OK.. I'm pretty sure 99.99% of us, strip and clean our 45s at home on a bench full of tools and cleaning parts anyway.

5-6 lbs trigger. Sounds about right.. now is it a smooth non creepy 5 lbs? That's what you want fixed.. Make sure there is no creep or drag in the trigger action. much lighter pull than that in a everyday gun might lead to trouble. If it's your dedicated competition gun, sure go lighter.. once you have a 2nd, 3rd, 4th normal home defense gun available.

 

[DustyVermonter]

Its more or less gonna be a work horse gun, trail gun, knock around .45. I'm no match competition shooter, I just like everything to run reliably and consistant and accurate. If I can sink 8 rds in a paper plate at 25yrds I'm happy, of course I'm all about getting better but I like my guns in fit shape and loose, but not too loose. I just like a hair trigger and am not a fan of double actions. Although my favorite trigger on a stock gun is glocks. They suit me perfectly.