SR1911 ?'s about VIS and frame.

[JFKC99]

Okay, so I am just shy of 1000 rounds down range with my 1911, not a single hiccup of any kind. All except 20 rounds were 230gr FMJ, a mixture of W.W.B. and Tula. So far I am in love with this gun... I have been trying to learn more about the 1911 platform to determine if there is anything I should have changed mechanically.

I know that this is a question best answered by a competent gunsmith; unfortunately, I don't have any locally and don't want to pay an arm and a leg for work on a gun that functions flawlessly. While learning about some timing clues I came across descriptions of the VIS, so I decided to see if I could determine if my lower lugs and the VIS were contacting correctly. As far as I can tell all is good: the VIS has a noticeable bowtie.

I noticed when comparing pictures that; the channel, in the frame that the barrel link rides in, is considerably cruder than most pictures I can find. The machining marks are uneven and there is noticeable tool marks. Hopefully the pictures I have provided do a better job of describing what I am talking about.

So I guess I have 2 questions:

1.) Does my VIS wear appear to suggest proper lower lug impact?

2.) Does the crudeness of the channel I mentioned warrant any action? Or is this irrelevant to the guns function and wear?

 

[gym]

I would show those pictures to the techs at Ruger if it bothers you that much, I would just not use those two brands of ammo. Perhaps a little polishing of both surfaces is in order. I would be careful not to remove any material from the barrel lug area, "only polish it" using a little Flitz or Maas. It doesn't look like it's extreme by any means, and a thousandth of an inch may be all you need. It looks like from the photo like there is a coating of some kind on the surface or is that oil? Other than that it looks normal, a little wear is to be expected in that area.
Some guns will just not digest some types of ammo, it's more likely an extractor issue or magazine, or a recoil spring. I would just switch mags before doing anything else, you don't want to mess with a gun that is shooting everything well other than some cheapo ammo that you can easily avoid using.
There are many Utube videos that will show you how to check your tension on the extractor if you don't already know, good luck it sounds like you have a fine weapon there.

 

[JFKC99]

Of specific interest is the sharp point that is machined into the frame channel, on the left side(from the back of the gun). I noticed some unusual marks on the barrel link and I was wondering if there is a possible connection between the two. I want to catch any problem with this area both; because, the frame is an integral part of the gun and to prevent premature barrel wear. I was planning on having the barrel link replaced with a bar sock piece and figured I should address this first.

 

[JFKC99]

Gym,

Thanks for the response, perhaps I was unclear as to the question. Neither of these rounds have caused any issues, the gun has not had one single malfunction of any sort. What I was saying is that I have shot 950+ rounds of 230gr FMJ (a mixture of WWB and Tula) and 20 rounds of JHP; none of them causing any problems at all. My concern is trying to figure out if the channel, specifically the notches at the back, might cause any undue wear or stress? This may be a dumb question I just want to get all my ducks in a row before I start replacing anything on the gun. So far I love this little lady so much that she will probably be a life long keeper. Before I look into cosmetic things like grips or even new sights I just want to address the actual functioning of the moving parts.

 

[JFKC99]

Gym,

...and yes that is oil, I admit to being quite liberal with the CLP on the rails, the outside gets wiped down but inside she tends to be quite wet.

 

[Greg528iT]

Those 2 notches look to be from the other side of the link as it's moving up into battery. If it's going into battery OK. then those dents should not grow anymore. My guess is that notch is just a hair shy of being deep enough. Are there similar dents in the link?

If the link is stamped from steel sheet stock.. I'd not worry about crack growth. If it's a MIM part.. maybe worry a little.. watch the dents see if they become a crack. Or contact Ruger and show them the interference. Pretty good chance they'll fix it, and replace the link.

What work does your 1911 need? NONE. it shoots fine. you are good. if you want to change the character. sweet..

 

[2bfree]

I had a mark just like that on the link on mine. Sent pics to ruger and they told me it was not a problem but if it bothered me I could send it back or they could send me a new link, they sent the link. Took it to the local Smith's and he told me to save my money that it was fine. 2000 rounds later, still fine.

 

[gym]

Ok I understand now, sorry for the response. I would not let it bother me, it appears to be pretty normal, and as mentioned if it stopped growing it's probably just breaking in, the smoothing may help visually, but if it is functioning well leave it alone until such time as you see it getting worse, "which will probably be never", in which case she's fine.

 

[JFKC99]

Thanks guys,

Greg your comments made me look for the accompanying marks on the link, there are extremely faint marks on the link. No apparent marks on the metal itself, just wearing of the bluing. This also lead me to realize that the marks I had been focusing on(on the link) were on the opposite side. Then 2bfree, your comments made me realize that this must be a casting/MIM mark; a little research seems to be pointing to MIM.

I guess, after I didn't have any functionality issues I started looking for issues that may still allow for proper functioning; such as push feeding or timing issues. My first order of business is replacing all critical/high stress MIM parts with barstock parts. I figured I should check fit and function of these parts beforehand, at least the best I can. Thanks for helping me figure out what exactly is happening with my girl.

 

[Fremmer]

Or you could just leave it stock and keep shooting it. I understand wanting to improve parts, but if it shoots accurately and reliably I'd be inclined to leave it alone and not screw with it. Ruger looks to be making a tough 1911, so the MIM parts with cosmetic flaws are fine if they hold up, which it sounds like they do. Jmho.

 

[JFKC99]

Fremmer,

I feel you on the "if it isn't broke..." I have personally seen some sad excuses for quality when it comes to MIM. My buddy had issues with the firing pin/striker on his Glock 40, I have seen or heard about at least 3 Kimber MIM failures; from people I know personally(even low stress parts!), and two RIA problems from a friend of a friend... I understand that not all MIM, or metal for that matter, is created equal. But, this gun is my primary carry and my go to h.d. gun; so I can't get the thought out of the back of my head.

I have no problem with the MIM: safety, grip safety, or mainspring housing(they make many of these out of plastic after all).

The sear, disconnector, and hammer are as critical as it gets and I have heard amazing things about the C.S. drop in kit. From what I can tell most people have no problem installing this kit themselves with no to very little fitting. Besides at $100-150 it's a rather affordable trigger job that comes with some peace of mind.

The barrel link can be had in barstock for under $10 so that is a no brainer for me.

As for the Slide stop not only is it a high stress part but the sr1911's seem to come with a out of spec part. I suspect that this is part of the MIM process to guarantee no fitting is needed. My slide stop measures in at .195" instead of the spec .198"-.200". While both the frame and link holes are above .200" if I remember right .203" and .205" respectively Before making this change I would want to run it by a competent professional to determine if the larger pin would cause any problems on lock up. But my uneducated observation makes me believe that the smaller pin could possibly cause the slight impact between the frame and link my gun appears to have had.

At the end of the day I feel that I just have more trust in barstock parts for these critical areas. If it was just a range gun I would wait till it broke; but, being my primary carry gun this isn't really an option.

 

[Fremmer]

Yup, if those parts are gonna be stuck in your mind, better to replace them.

 

[JFKC99]

Yeah that is basically what I am thinking... In all honesty I have no factual justification for mistrusting Ruger's MIM parts. I have not seen any negative comments concerning their MIM supplier, whoever it is. In addition they have proven that they can master new processes such as their investment casting. I have seen many informed people suggest that Ruger's investment casting is comparable to forgings. If the SR1911 had been out longer, thus giving their 1911 MIM parts more of a track record, I may be able to let my MIM prejudices go. Either way I wouldn't replace parts with MIM over barstock and some parts, like the firing control group, I want to replace just to get her exactly how I want. In the end I very well may bite the bullet and take her to a competent gunsmith and see what their take is.