I got a bunch of 9mm bullets and about a half bucket of brass last year, along with dies, and am finally going to load some 9mm. My bullets are Berry's 124gr RN, .356 dia. Powders I have are:
W231
Auto Comp
VV N320
VV 3N38
Nitro 100 NF
Hi Skor 700x (enough to make 150~200 rds, not enough to waste time developing a load)
Charge weights are all over the place, as are OAL's. I've been researching this for a few weeks, and just keep scratching my head on where to start.
So of the powders I have which powder would you use? Or would you use a different powder? I'm not against buying a pound of something else if I can find it locally, but buying just a single pound online wouldn't be worth it to me, and I don't want to buy multiple pounds in case I don't like it. Also, do you have a preferred data source for 9mm? I have 8 or 9 books to reference as well as online data. Finally, Berry's FAQ page states that you can use data for any FMJ, Lead, or Plated bullet provided certain conditions are met, such as same weight and observing a speed limit. Which data set do you use, jacketed, lead, or plated?
Gun is a S&W 639 and rounds would be used for killing paper and occasional steel ringing out to 25 yards or so max, usually about 10~15 yards.
Thanks all!
Chris -
9x19 Luger is one of the strangest cartridges to reload. If you can master reloading it, then you can safely reload any auto pistol cartridge. This is because "9mm" includes the most safety checks; other auto pistol cartridges (like 45ACP) will simply be a shortened list of those same steps. The problems you'll have will probably
not be with the load itself, but for the most part be created by the physical shape (the tapered round and chamber). The problem compounds itself when you use bullets other than Berry. This doesn't make it "hard" to reload... simply
much more detailed.
To get to your specific questions...
• I would use the W231. In 9mm it is not extremely high pressure and meters very well. End result is that it's very "forgiving".
• N320 is a
fabulous 9mm powder... as long as you stay under ~1030fps; otherwise you have exceeded
Max Load. N330 is much better.
• Berry bullets generally, unlike 98% of their competition, have a
VERY slender ogive. This eliminates the physical chamber fouling tests that you'd be doing with other brands. So
Watch Out !! if you change over to any other brand of bullet.
• Per my testing (YRMV), 9x19 performs better when the bullet is deeply seated. So although the chamber and bullet will allow an OAL like 1.160", you'll be much better off using 1.120 to 1.130". (Other bullets may
force you into even shorter OALs. But that's a future discussion.)
• Berry has some of the
very thickest plating, so they are safely loaded using
Jacketed data. Other brands of plated bullets are thinner, and so you'd need to use
cast Lead data. So if you swap bullet brands, know that you may need to change your loads and re-test.
• All reloading books vary in their reporting. So you need to pick one single, primary published source and use it until your cartridge or special bullet isn't listed. The
Lyman Manual has the largest listing, and so I have made that my primary source. I have all the books, but some I haven't opened in 10 years. IMHO, if you bounce around from book-to-book, then you can only end up in trouble. IOW, keep dancing with the same lady.
► I suspect the issues you experience will have more to do with
Taper Crimp. Too little and the round may not chamber; too much and you may buckle the cartridge case or break the plating on the plated bullet. Aim for 0.377 to 0.378" and you'll be good. This chambering issue is usually compounded by the bullet choice, but the Berry is going to allow you skate by this problem area.
► Large variations in OAL can be a danger in this small but high-pressure cartridge. The key to getting your OALs to within a 0.005" (+0.002/-0.003) tolerance window seem to be 1) getting your arm accustomed to making the same 'swing' each time, and 2) using case lube (despite using carbide dies).
► If you want to chrono your loads and get meaningful results, be sure and use all the same brand of brass for the testing. Yes, there is that much difference.
► If you decide to re-order with Berry, try their "Hollow Base" series. Those will give you a slight edge. (Combine those with N320 and a 124gr bullet traveling around 1030fps and you'll have a winning combination.)
Be safe.
