Steel cased ammo question.....

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Glockurai

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I recently bought some brown bear russian ammo online. I went to the range and it was flawless (other than being dirty), not one issue through my G19 and G26. I would like to keep buying this ammo mostly because of its price. Does shooting steel cased ammo negativley affect a pistol in any way? It may be a dumb question but it doesn't hurt to ask.
 
Through a glock? I wouldn't worry or care.

Through some high end finicky 1911? Yeah. Wouldn't do it.
 
If the ammo has a lacquer coating on the cases do not let it build up in your chamber (it will try). When that stuff gets hot it makes an excellent adhesive. Acetone or lacquer thinner will dissolve it. Watch your extractor. Some steel rimmed cases can have a sharp corner and can chew it up depending how hard the extractor is.
 
I put a Wilson HD extractor in my 1911 for a reason, So it eats anything i feed it and belches out the remnants.
Ill shoot any ammo as long as its non-corrosive which isnt very common from what i can tell. I WANT to try and make my gun jamb so i know what may need attention.
Brass, Aluminum and steel cased ammo is stocked in my ammo cans as i speak, And not only in .45acp but .40S&W also.
 
Why? Only knock on steel cased ammo is that some say it is hard on extractors

Because it's dirty as hell. I fired TWO rounds of that new TulAmmo steel cased stuff walmart is selling out of my stainless 1911, and the entire muzzle area of the gun was covered in black gunk. That does not happen with regular ammo.

Needless to say, I'll fire that ammo through my XD45, and not the 1911.
 
rellascout said:
Why? Only knock on steel cased ammo is that some say it is hard on extractors?
This myth got started by some cheap folks buying cheap parts for their rifles. Since they were cheap, they didn't buy brass cased ammo, but the cheaper steel stuff.

When the cheap parts failed, of course it was the ammo at fault.
 
Oh, another thing I tried steel cased ammo in and won't use again -- my AR. That thing gets dirty enough with regular ammo due to the whole poop where it eats direct impingement system. With cheap steel cased stuff, it's even worse. Ick.

My AK's eat the steel cased stuff like a pitbull eats a porkchop, however.
 
Because it's dirty as hell. I fired TWO rounds of that new TulAmmo steel cased stuff walmart is selling out of my stainless 1911, and the entire muzzle area of the gun was covered in black gunk. That does not happen with regular ammo.

Needless to say, I'll fire that ammo through my XD45, and not the 1911.

Huh, I've put a few hundred rounds of it through my Glock 17, seems cleaner than wwb.
 
Steel case is OK. Just beware when it is cheaply polymer coated.. Lacquer coated is OK, I shoot that for 30 years.
 
i have been shooting steel cased in my g19 with no issue. I know lots of folks in the training community that put alot of rounds down range a year, in glocks (19's mostly) and they pretty much use brown bear exclusively. I have been using tula ammo with no issues.
 
Steel cased ammo is ok. I still don't like to use it because I tend to baby my guns a bit. I'm too worried about it rounding out my extractor and sticking to my barrel's chamber causing a malfunction. Plus, that lacquer stuff is annoying. The brass cased ammo I buy is hardly any more expensive so I get what I feel more comfortable with.

My AK's eat the steel cased stuff like a pitbull eats a porkchop, however.

They ought to, they're practically made for it. In some countries they view our use of brass cases as extravagant.
 
It really has nothing to do with the cases being lacquer coated, the problem is the steel case itself. Steel doesn't expand like brass so you don't get as good of a seal causing more carbon to build in the chamber. Over time the fouling builds up and eventually causes a case to stick and jam in the chamber.

Commie guns tend to have loose tolerances which is why they can get away with dirty chambers. If you fire steel cased ammo in western guns, you need to make sure you clean the chamber.
 
Drail If the ammo has a lacquer coating on the cases do not let it build up in your chamber (it will try). When that stuff gets hot it makes an excellent adhesive. Acetone or lacquer thinner will dissolve it. Watch your extractor. Some steel rimmed cases can have a sharp corner and can chew it up depending how hard the extractor is.
Myth.
Lacquer doesn't melt in your chamber like candle wax.

Ed DCB Steel case is OK. Just beware when it is cheaply polymer coated.. Lacquer coated is OK, I shoot that for 30 years.
Beware of what? The polymer coating is no different than lacquer coated. Your gun can't tell the difference.

BamAlmighty It really has nothing to do with the cases being lacquer coated, the problem is the steel case itself. Steel doesn't expand like brass so you don't get as good of a seal causing more carbon to build in the chamber. Over time the fouling builds up and eventually causes a case to stick and jam in the chamber.
This.


FatPants
Quote:
Thanks for the replies. Has Glock ever addressed the issue?

What issue? There is no issue.

Exactly.


.
 
Huh, I've put a few hundred rounds of it through my Glock 17, seems cleaner than wwb.

I can only speak from my experience. Two rounds of that .45acp Tula stuff and the entire front end of my 1911 was coated in black crap. The PMC I was using that day didn't do that even after 100 rounds.
 
I think this is a caliber issue. I've shot many kinds of 9mm (including close to 1k of Brown Bear), and I've never seen a dirty brand of 9mm. OTOH, most of the name brand, brass .45 I've shot is dirty as heck. I'm talking UMC, Blazer, Fiochhi. It's all dirty. I'd be surprised if Tula could be any worse.
 
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A Glock extractor is about $15 and can be replaced in under five minutes by the end user. I would not worry about using steel-cased ammo. My friend shoots it in his G19 (Tula ammo from Wal Mart) and it is almost as accurate as anything else--fine for range purposes. It does burn pretty dirty though.

If you don't reload, and you're shooting it through a Glock I say go for it. If you have a custom match-grade pistol, then I'd stay away from it; in that instance you wouldn't be shooting bargain-bin ammmo anyway.
 
Two rounds of that .45acp Tula stuff and the entire front end of my 1911 was coated in black crap.

So?
To paraphrase the mad russian:
"eez not pretty, eez gun!"
Why would some crud you can wipe off with a rag be an issue? Did it cause fouling to the point of malfunctions?
If it did cause foulding to the point of malfunctions, wouldn't it have a place as a training aid anyway?

I'm not arguing the fact that it is dirty stuff, I'm just not understanding the concern in a working gun. Maybe in a safe queen or match pistol ... but in a gun you keep in a linty holster for a few weeks at a shot?

And yes, extractors are easy to replace, aren't they?
 
So?
To paraphrase the mad russian:
"eez not pretty, eez gun!"
Why would some crud you can wipe off with a rag be an issue? Did it cause fouling to the point of malfunctions?
If it did cause foulding to the point of malfunctions, wouldn't it have a place as a training aid anyway?

I'm not arguing the fact that it is dirty stuff, I'm just not understanding the concern in a working gun. Maybe in a safe queen or match pistol ... but in a gun you keep in a linty holster for a few weeks at a shot?

And yes, extractors are easy to replace, aren't they?

The 1911 in question was my pretty safe / range queen. :eek:
 
I've run a bunch of steel cased 9mm thru a Hi-Point C9, a Taurus PT92, and a Taurus 24/7. Not one problem. Zilch, zero, nada. I have a bunch of steel cased 9 mill eagerly awaiting a trip thru the 24/7.
 
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