Sticky Colt Detective Special

[GCBurner]

I've been looking at one of these in my LGS for a while. It's the older model, without the ejector rod shroud, and looks like it was probably a police carry gun from the 1960s, from the holster wear on the left side. The bore looks good, and the double action seems smooth enough, but it sticks when I try cocking the hammer manually; the hammer moves about a quarter inch, and stops, and the cylinder does not revolve.
I'm a complete novice at Colt D-frame lockwork, so I'm not going to be poking around in the gun's innards myself, and I don't know of any Colt specialists locally that work on the older revolvers. This means it would probably take a trip off to the Colt factory shop for refurbishing, and probably refinishing, too.
Has anyone here had this done, and could I get some idea of the cost involved? I'd like to have a Detective Special .38 in my collection, but the price I'd be willing to pay for it depends a lot on what it would cost to get it in proper working order.

 

[BullfrogKen]

Real easy way to find out is call Colt in the morning. They'll talk to you.

 

[dfariswheel]

They really can't diagnose the problem over the phone, so they're going to need to actually see the gun.
Colt will look it over and send you an invoice listing the work needed and the cost.
When you pay, they start.

Last I heard, Colt labor was $75.00 per hour and there's very little they can't repair in less then one hour.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Better add in shipping, which isn't cheap since they only want Fedex...By the time you pay shipping both ways, I'd guess a refinish and repair will set you about 400 bucks....FWIW, the 2011 price list shows $250 for a standard blue job.

 

[GCBurner]

Better add in shipping, which isn't cheap since they only want Fedex...By the time you pay shipping both ways, I'd guess a refinish and repair will set you about 400 bucks....FWIW, the 2011 price list shows $250 for a standard blue job.

Yes, I checked, and that's the price I got, too. I'm thinking that the hand probably needs replacement, that seems to be the part that wears the most on the Colt D-frames. It's almost considered a consumable part, since I hear it needs replacement after a certain amount of use, just as part of regular maintenence. If I can get this one at a price that takes repairs into consideration, I may pass on a complete refinishing. A bit of carry wear just gives it some character, and it looks like something Bogey would use playing Phillip Marlowe.

 

[Old Fuff]

I am going to stick my neck out a bit, because I can't examine the gun...

It sounds like the cylinder bolt isn't dropping soon enough. You start to cock the hammer, the hand pushes on the cylinder's ratchet tooth, but since the cylinder is still locked it can't move, and a this point everything stops.

This condition can be caused by a number of things, but it, and other issues can often be corrected through adjustment rather then part replacement. Hand problems, are sometimes caused by the pin getting slightly bent, so the hand engages the ratchet more outboard, after which the cylinder won't carry up (fully revolver from chamber to chamber).

Anyway, I have occasionally corrected an older Colt with timing problems with nothing but my trusty hammer... Well O.K. one with a plastic/rubber head.

I suggest that you return the revolver to Colt and get an estimate on correcting the action. If the cost doesn't cause you to faint (and it shouldn't) then take up the question of refinishing. You already know what to expect there. Do keep in mind that that the perfect/like new blue will soon become worn if you carry it on a regular basis, which is the reason I haven't had my pet 1950's carry-piece refinished. It is however in perfect mechanical condition.

 

[GCBurner]

I decided to pass on this particular gun; too much chance of expensive problems, and the seller and I were about $100 apart on what we thought it was worth. I still want a Detective Special, but I'm going to wait until the right one comes along.

 

[4v50 Gary]

I recall working on a Python that had the same problem. In this case, it was the latch pin that was coming part, blocking the hammer. The pin that engaged the latch (cylinder release) is a two part unit, and the one on that particular gun was coming apart. Popped in a new one and it was good to go. Here's an image of the parts at this Link.

Let me sleep on this for more ideas.