Stone Recommendation

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Lerk

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So need a little help here, did a little searching but didn't find a definite answer. I'm in the market for a new stone to sharpen my knives with.

Just your basic bench stone, no fancy sharpening system or anything. Use would primarily be for maintaining the edge on my daily knives and maybe some minor edge restoration on some heavy use ones that need some tender love and a delicate touch. I like a nice strong edge that will keep its edge for a long time with moderate use, doesn't necessarily have to be able to get it to super razor sharp stage.

Wondering what stones you guys recommend that won't break the bank, and also what grit would best fit my application. A dual side would be a bigger plus. Unsure of what my current stone is, some cheap overseas manufactured, with what I would say is a medium/fine dual side, works alright but its nearing the end of its life.
 
I use Spyderco ceramic bench stones and Japanese water stones if I use a bench stone at all.

Otherwise I stick with ... sticks.
 
I have a whole bunch of stones, diamond and ceramic hones, files, and a bench sander that all get used at different times to sharpen things.

For basic edge maintenance, I like Arkansas (noviculite) stones, and fine ceramic hones. For edge establishment or restoration, I like diamond hones and Norton India stones.

Good luck!
 
I've been eyeing up the Lansky line of stones. I think a Medium, Fine, Ultra Fine, and an Arkansas Soft will cover just about all of my needs

Heard some good things about them, what do you guys think? Better options without breaking the bank?

What are some quality Japanese water stones and what to look out for? And a good source for purchasing.
 
The stone is only part of it. The key to proper sharpening is the skill to maintain the proper angle while wheting. Very few people can do this by hand. I can't so I use the Lanskey system.
 
I no longer use stones on my knives. Diamond steels are much faster and easier to use for me. I do agree that keeping the proper angle for the type blade you are sharpening is the key to success.
I was in Harbor Freight the other day and noticed a multi sided diamond hone block but I havent worn out my current steel yet so I had to pass. Much rather have something made in the good ol USA but if you are on a budget give it a look.
T
 
Diamond can't be beat for the occasions where you really need to remove significant amounts of metal to repair/redefine/create a proper edge geometry. The two best pieces of advice I can give you on diamond stones is to let the stone do the work. If you press hard trying to speed things up, you'll shorten the life of the hone and the extra pressure doesn't really speed things up that much anyway. Don't go too fine on the grit. I'd say that 600 is about the upper limit, 300 or 400 is better.

For sharpening when there's no need to do much other than touchup or for smoothing an edge after it's been roughed out with a diamond hone, ceramic is good. I use sticks when I'm in a hurry or not particularly concerned about a super fine edge and bench stones when I want the edge exactly right. When you're using a ceramic stone, don't press hard, you'll just increase the chance of chipping or rolling the edge. You can use an eraser to clean the stone occasionally. Stay with a fine grit here--600 or higher.
 
Diamond.
Here awhile back I broke down and used some gift certificates to obtain some sharpening equipment.

While I come up with and used Arkansas and Norton stones, with the advent of new steels, diamond just makes this a bit easier.

DMT:
-Credit cards in coarse, fine, and extra fine.
-Diafold (?) the folding interrupted two sided with coarse and fine.
-Set of 3 continuous in coarse, fine and extra fine.

What I use most is the red/fine/600 grit credit card.

I strop quite a bit using the back of a small legal pad, or a piece of leather off a old belt, one is about 2 inches long, the other about 4 inches long, or my jeans on the thigh of my leg, or my hand, or cardboard, or back of an envelope, or coffee cup, or pretty much whatever else is handy.

Is it obvious I ain't gots any ceramic sticks? *sticks-tongue-out*

I also use emery paper in 400, 600 and 1500 grit, just on the really thin phone books one has around here.

So yeah, while I feel 600 grit takes care of 90% of what most "need", sometimes a edge needs a bit more work (coarse), or one does not like "tool marks) ( extra fine).

I often touch up the Vic Classic SD I carry daily and use daily simply "stropping" using 1500 grit emery.

Though right now it does have a highly polished edge, as I got a wild hair and decided to use Simichrome on the back of a legal pad, and then 3x5 index card.
The Chicago Cutlery paring knife I have been "testin' and messin'" with got the same treatment.

Sorta neat to read newsprint off the edges...if'n the bifocals get focused that is.

steve
 
You could get a dmt credit card sized diasharp red stone for touch ups and honing, and a dual sided rougher dmt bench stone for more in depth jobs.

Amazon used to have a good deal on all 3 (red/blue/green) credit card sized stones. They're really cool.

Personally I find the sharpmaker easy to use and more consistent as do many people. It keeps the angle consistent so the knives don't get a rounded off or inconsistent bevel angle with repeat sharpenings.
 
For years I've used a Medium India and a Hard Arkansas bench mounted stones with great success.
I use plenty of oil and wipe the stone dry after use.
 
Go to a NAPA auto parts store and buy a package each of 320-400, 600 and 1000 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper.
Find a FLAT surface (your wife's counter top, if granite will work fine, but any flat surface will work).
Strop out the nicks and continue to polish the edge until you are satisfied.
Some OCD people continue until they have used up to 2000 or finer grit but 1000 will shave your face, no problem.
Use it and then throw it away; It's the American way!
HTH
Doug
 
For, forever, I used Norton India stones and still recommend them.
I also used Arkansas and Belgium stones.

Note: I used these dry. No oil or water by the way.

Just, with the new steels, and granted I still prefer tool steels, these diamond stones just work. As mentioned above by those I have a lot of respect for, these do no get "groovy" ( they stay flat) do not require oil, and easy to clean up.

A long long time ago these diamond "offerings" me-n-mine tried out, were not up to what we have today. So me-n-mine used stones. Times have changed, in regard to diamond, steels and what one can do freehand, if they learn freehand.

I still need some ceramic stuff. I KNOW what these can do, just I ain't got any.
Still learning myself, and always will be, and paying attention to those better than I will ever be, as to what to get.

Zeke, I unnerstand, and I have the utmost respect for you. It was not long ago, I done up knives using Norton India stones. Just me being me, still I used a very small , India stone with two grits, and then stropped on the thigh of my jeans.

Folks, one cannot buy skill and targets. You gotta learn the correct basic fundamentals. Everything is knowing the correct basic fundamentals, repeated over and over and over again. Be this guns, knives, sharpening, self defense, shooting, or you name it.

While I may not be able to sharpen to the levels of others around here, I darn sure can hold my own.
Valkman, you have seen my stuff for one, your thoughts?

Steve
 
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Like several others here I've come to really like DMT's diamond bench "stones." I use them wet, however, with tapwater. It helps to float off the swarf and keep it clean. I just make sure that they are dry before putting them away.
 
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