Stretching Leather
- Thread starter rodwha
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CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I can't remember the last time I even handled an ROA but I imagine they're close enough to make it work. Wet the holster thoroughly (doesn't have to be sopping wet), let the water soak in for several minutes and work the ROA (wrapped in a ziplock bag) into it. If the holster is tooled, be careful when handling it or you'll blur the impressions. Be careful how you push on it because leather becomes very soft when damp. Don't force it so hard you bust the main seam. Once you get it in there, set it out to dry overnight. You should have a perfectly fitted holster in the morning.
whughett
Member
One trick is to wrap your ROA in a plastic bag, soak the holster in hot water and then start working the leather around your plastic protected ROA. If it conformed to your liking you would most likley have to re work the leather with some oil after to prevent the leather from becoming hard.
OK CraigC types a little faster.
OK CraigC types a little faster.
J-Bar
Member
I shrunk a holster using hot water. I will only use COLD water on holsters from now on.
I wouldn't think there was a big difference between an 1858 and a ROA, but I've ordered the holster, and I'll wet it a bit and try working my pistol in there. I'm guessing it would be a bad idea to attempt pushing it into a dry holster as it would likely work on the stitching.
Cold water, not hot. And a plastic bag around my pistol, which I'm guessing is to keep it from rusting.
Is there a specific length of time to leave it? I'd guess it would take more than a few hours.
Cold water, not hot. And a plastic bag around my pistol, which I'm guessing is to keep it from rusting.
Is there a specific length of time to leave it? I'd guess it would take more than a few hours.
J-Bar
Member
At least a day. The leather should feel stiff when you remove the gun. Let it dry a couple if days before use. Don't use a blow dryer or other heat source... Slow drying is best.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Indoors, with air conditioning, overnight should suffice. The plastic bag is to both protect your gun from the water and to provide a wee bit of wiggle room. It should fit snugly but still draw smoothly. Cold water is fine.
BCRider
Member
The last thing you want to do with a leather holster is to oil it. That'll make the leather soft and that is bad. The opening won't stay open when you stuff the gun into the holster.
If the leather is already a trifle soft and you want to harden it up then by all means use VERY HOT but not quite boiling water. It'll tend to wash out some of the surface wax and even some of the oil if there is any in the leather. It also made the leather easier to stretch out if the gun is pushed in while the leather is still hot from the pot. And the leather will only shrink if the gun is taken out while the leather is still wet.
Craig raises a good point about hot water and any embossing. On such holsters cold to barely warm water might very well be a better option to avoid the embossing being swelled back out of the surface.
On the two holsters I've done now I bagged the gun and shoved it into hot water soaked leather, bound the trigger guard area with foam and some shaped wood cauls and a clamp then set it on top of the hot water tank where it was comfortably warm to dry for a few days. MOST of the leather was dry the next day. But the area under the clamping cauls needed another day and a bit to dry properly.
The bag should give you the play you need. And to gain a little bit of flare around the opening it's not a bad thing to stuff in a slip of heavy gauge not corrugated cardboard such as a cereal box outer container. This slip should be long enough to go around the gun at the mouth of the holster and about 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide inserted about 1/4 inch into the opening.
If the leather is already a trifle soft and you want to harden it up then by all means use VERY HOT but not quite boiling water. It'll tend to wash out some of the surface wax and even some of the oil if there is any in the leather. It also made the leather easier to stretch out if the gun is pushed in while the leather is still hot from the pot. And the leather will only shrink if the gun is taken out while the leather is still wet.
Craig raises a good point about hot water and any embossing. On such holsters cold to barely warm water might very well be a better option to avoid the embossing being swelled back out of the surface.
On the two holsters I've done now I bagged the gun and shoved it into hot water soaked leather, bound the trigger guard area with foam and some shaped wood cauls and a clamp then set it on top of the hot water tank where it was comfortably warm to dry for a few days. MOST of the leather was dry the next day. But the area under the clamping cauls needed another day and a bit to dry properly.
The bag should give you the play you need. And to gain a little bit of flare around the opening it's not a bad thing to stuff in a slip of heavy gauge not corrugated cardboard such as a cereal box outer container. This slip should be long enough to go around the gun at the mouth of the holster and about 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide inserted about 1/4 inch into the opening.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
A light coat of oil once every year or two is fine and replenishes the natural oils. Seems many folks can't resist the urge to soak it like a baseball glove and that's what kills leather.
Pancho
Member
I've done this more than a couple of times and found that wetting the leather, covering the gun in Glad wrap, inserting the gun and sitting down to watch tv and kneading the holster/gun while I watch the tube makes for a great holster/gun match. I agree that forced heat drying is a No-No, air-conditioned air or a de-humidifyer is ok. I dis-agree that after the holster is formed and well dried that using conditioning oils will over relax the leather. I use Ballistol and my leather has never lost it's shape or body.
BCRider
Member
I've had such good luck with simple neutral shoe polish that I don't see any need for trying anything else.
I'd suggest trying whatever oil you try on the belt first. If the belt gets a little too soft it's not the end of the world. If the leather doesn't become noticeably softer after the oil then it's fine to use the same light application on the holsters.
I'd suggest trying whatever oil you try on the belt first. If the belt gets a little too soft it's not the end of the world. If the leather doesn't become noticeably softer after the oil then it's fine to use the same light application on the holsters.
ivankerley
Member
im with craig c and a few others here and on a knife forum where i got schooled on this topic that some oil is fine, but continually or over saturating the leather probably wont be good long term, also i would think any treatments youve done to the rig when youre finishing it would affect how it absorbs moisture or oil
on a side note i havent been able to find ballistol for cleaning anywhere except online, need to get some
Gene
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I use neatsfoot oil and always lightly oil the stuff I make as part of the process. We're talking about just enough to damp a piece of cotton T-shirt and enough on the leather to be able to see it. Just like oiling my sixshooters, I wipe a little on and then wipe it off.
I just started using Ballistol to clean my blackpowder guns and while they say it's okay for leather, I can't stand the smell of the stuff. Extra virgin olive oil also works and smells better.
I just started using Ballistol to clean my blackpowder guns and while they say it's okay for leather, I can't stand the smell of the stuff. Extra virgin olive oil also works and smells better.
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