Discussion in 'Shooting Gear and Storage' started by BIGGBAY90, Oct 1, 2010.
You can cut into 10ga with a fire ax or power tools. 7 or 8 ga, not so much.
Photos of a fire ax attack cutting into a gun safe.
Great source of gun safe info and purchasing decisions.
Probably, but not one the "average" Joe can afford.
Bolt it down. I'm 6', 140, and can easily move a 600 pound safe quickly and by myself without using any fancy equipment. If I wasn't worried about scratching your walls or floors, or causing other damage, I could move a 600 pound safe all the way through a house in less than a minute.
Although it is uncommon for a safe in a house to grow legs, it does happen. When it does happen, it's usually dragged out and tossed in a truck. Even if they don't take the safe, we often see them tipped over to make them easier to beat on. This not only increases the odds of them opening the safe, but it will also damage firearms even if they are not successful in getting it open.
You can pretty much cut anything with the word gauge behind it with power tools. Even 1/4" can be cut quickly with a circular saw running the right blade.
This is why even the lowest burglary rated safe made out of steel plate uses 1" plate walls.
I sell Graffunder safes. I do believe that something of theirs will meet your stated needs. For instance, earlier this year I had a unit come into the shop that I'd sold about 5 years ago. Due to some less-than-optimum circumstances, the safe was subjected to having a .375 H&H magnum fire in it. The muzzle of the full-length barrel was within inches of the top when it went off. The bullet did not exit the safe. The owner indicated to me that ammunition involved was a full power round.
Considering the owner's privacy, and possible legal ramifications, I will not be providing any more details. But I also would attest to the above in a court of law.
What gauge of steel stopped that bullet? =P
To put that in perspective, I have photos of a regular gun safe that was shot using a common caliber hunting rifle. It made several nice holes in the safe, including two through the door, the hard plate, the lock, the rear panel of the door, and into the contents of the safe.
It was a Graffunder. Ya know, I just spent five minutes having fun with the description, but deleted it anyway.
OK, the rifle discharged in an upright position while in the safe. From the inside out, here's the layers of construction: Synthetic crushed velvet cloth, glue, 16 gauge sheet steel inner wall, 1.5 inches of a proprietary concrete mixture, 1/2 inch of A36 plate steel, gesso, primer, paint. There was a barely noticable bump on the exterior of the safe, the bullet didn't even come close to penetration.
The rifle was not positioned in a corner, the bullet hit probably at least 8 inches out from any other plate.
A safe with a UL TL-15 burglary rating. This rating certifies that a safe will resist entry for a period of at least 15 minutes against all common hand tools (hammers, pry bars, chisels, etc.), power tools (drills, saws, grinders, etc.) and pressure applying devices.
Although it does not have a UL rating, an E rate safe will have similar construction. AMSEC offers a factory built TL-15 gun safe, and Graffunder offers a factory built E rate gun safe.
The point I was making was that if a .375 H&H bullet can't get out, nobody swinging an axe is going to get in. Going the other way, that's a half inch of A36 plate steel backed by another inch and a half of conrete, and that's backed by yet another layer of steel.
Or, using conservative figures from Hornady #6, a 270 grain .375 H&H bullet driven to 2600 fps develops over 4000 ft. lbs. of energy at the muzzle. Over two tons of energy. I strongly doubt that any single person can bring anything remotely close to that level of energy to bear using a portable lever type swinging tool. Which includes an axe, crowbar, spud bar, matlock, pickaxe, etc, etc.
FWIW, a TL rating only covers the door. If the rating were to apply to all sides of the safe in question, the designation would be TL15X6.
Go to: www.graffundersafes.com. You can also find dealers on the site, which will include us, Central Lock & Key, in Great Falls Montana. If you're interested in a quote, please PM me, I'm usually very competitive in the true safe market.
http://www.amsecusa.com/gun-safes.htm = Amsec, American Security
Sturdy Safe - http://www.sturdysafe.com/ Lots of safe buying info here
Your nearby Graffunder Dealer is:
Advanced Arms LLC
81 S. Main Strret, Suite A
Pittston, PA 18640
570-655-4867 - [email protected]
Here's a good introduction to shopping for a gun safe:
Try Googling New York Gun Safe or http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html lists just about all the American Safe Manufacturers listed
Yes, Graffunder will build you a safe with a 1.5" thick plate steel door accompanied with 1" walls on every other surface. In fact, Graffunder will custom build whatever you want, within reason. You want six inch thick steel shelves, you got it. Why you want it is your business as long as the funds clear.
Check to see if that 1 1/2 inch steel body spec is actually counting the dry wall fire protection as part of the measurement.
1 1/2 inch steel is fantastically heavy and expensive, like $10,000 and up.
Here's a great illustration: http://www.brownsafe.com/categories/faq/Protection_Levels.html
Please do go to: www.graffundersafes.com. You'll get an education. Yes, if I say a Graffunder has a 1.5" or 6" steel door, that's just the solid plate steel. Same for the other five surfaces other than the door. The steel wall is backed with 1.5" of a proprietary concrete mixture, which is backed with gauge steel. Goes like this: B level safe has a .5" thick solid plate door & the walls are 1/4" plate backed with the aforesaid 1.5" of concrete. C level safe is a 1" thick door & the walls are .5" plate. E level is 1.5" door & walls are 1" of steel, then backed, etc. F level incorporates a laminate layer of manganese steel on all 6 surfaces, which is an effective deterrent to a torch attack. And it goes up from there.
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