Stubborn Copper Fouling

[Walkalong]

They will after you've worn thru the nylon coating by not using a rod guide. Buy a rod guide.

DITTO!

Bore Tech Eliminator, as already posted, is non ammonia and is great for copper. I have gotten away from all the ammonia based copper removers, although they work just fine.

One thing that gets some people stumped at first is the fact that the carbon and copper fouling is often "layered". It may take using copper solvent, then a good product for carbon, then more copper solvent etc. The barrels that have not been cleaned in a long time are often a B**** to get clean. A bore scope will tell you what is on the surface that needs to be attacked. A casual brushing in between steps and a good rinse helps. Lots of patches. (Yes, we do need those stinking patches)

Clean often and avoid the headache.

 

[Horsemany]

Good examples Bill. Here's another. Think of the copper as something very soft, like peanut butter. If you spread peanut butter onto a piece of bread it's porous like a factory bore that's not perfectly smooth. The peanut butter will be thicker in places where it went into the low voids in the bread. Yet the peanut butter is smooth on the top surface. The same thing happens with successive bullets. Each smoothes out whatever copper was left from prior bullets. Your surface of copper is forming a smoother bore than the factory steel in most cases. That's why most factory bores shoot better with a little copper in them.

As for the example of a tire in a pothole. Eventually the pothole will fill up with rubber. You see this on highways with dark tracks where the tires run. The voids are filled with rubber(copper).

 

[berettashotgun]

Been waiting all day for SOMEONE:banghead: to suggest KROIL or Aero-KROIL. Cannot log on @ work....
Tight patch/jag after a few hrs soak time works wonders on anything.
Lapping or polishing the bore is a real blessing for future cleaning, I've used fine CLOVER lapping compound on used rifles and gotten excellent accuracy.