stuck 30-06 cases in resizing die

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30-06 stuck cases

I clean and polish my shells every time. I clean the inside of the neck with a bronze barrel brush in a drill.

I will definately try the Imperial Case Lube due to the responses here. I probably wasn't letting the Hornady One Shot dry long enough but it sound like Imperial must be the best.

thank you guys.

Tiger
 
I use RCBS lube and pad. Love it for the speed and it CHEEEEAAAAAP. I also use a small .22 barrel swab and run it along the inside of the case neck as well. The wax idea sounds good and I may try that. When you lube, Make sure you keep it off the shoulders as much as possible to avoid hydrolic dents.
 
I'm on my 4th can of one shot and yet to come close to sticking one. Maybe just lucky cause I've read alot of reloaders don"t like it.
 
I've tried nearly every commercial lube on the planet and I don't like any of the aerosol lubes.

Imperial and Unique are a step above the Lee lube as far as paste lubes go.

I really like RCBS #2 lube on a pad or in the RCBS Lube dies for use in a progressive press.

The one lube I haven't yhet tried is the Dillon spray lube. That's next on my list.
 
I use One Shot...and haven't had any problems with stuck cases EXCEPT for 223. Stuck two in the last month, but both times I didn't wait very long (<60sec) after spraying before trying to size.
 
I use the Lee lube paste for my larger calibers, namely .30-06, 7.62x54R and .308 and Oneshot for the smaller ones .223, .30-30. Your mileage may vary but having more than one type of lube could save a good amount of time and a couple Tylenol.
 
Can you explain how the lube dies work?

You place the lube die in station #1 and your sizing die in station #2 with the spindle raised so it doesn't contact the shellplate.

The lube die has a felt pad in it which holds enough lube for approximately 100 cases.

The lube die will deprime and lube the case and the sizing die will then size without the case sticking.
You then add lube to the die every 100 rounds or so.

I then tumble the cases in ground walnut for around 15 minutes to remOve the lube

I then trim and chamfer before returning to the press to load
 
I've found a rag soaked in automatic transmission fluid will lube cases just fine, since I've switched over from one shot to automatic tranny fluid I've had no stuck cases. And it's cheap!
 
I agree with shaggy, you can't tell when the can is out of lube. Finally got one stuck at the can's EOL. I'm changing to mink oil or toilet ring wax, which I have. Had to buy a removal tool (which I should have anyway) for .308. Shame imperial isn't available locally, tired of paying high shipping cost, but if it were, they wouldn't be able to sell the other stuff.
 
When I use the one shot I'm very generous with it and I start sizing right away. When I do large quantity's I put the cases in a ziplock saturate them then blend it in. Works for me everytime.
 
"...it sound like Imperial must be the best."

Imperial is good stuff but that may be an over statement; actually, there are several lubes (and substitutes) that are fully equal.

How do I get StarBright Trailer Ball Lube off my rifle cases? I wipe it with a paper towel. Any that's left is too thin to cause a problem later but sprinkling a few drops of mineral spirts to dampen the towel removes it ALL.
 
I've never tried the spray lubes (though I have an unused can of Lyman's version). I've used both Lyman lube and RCBS Case Lube #2 from a pad and one pass through each case with a neck brush that I run over the pad about every 5th or 6th case. I've never had a stuck case and I've resized brass from Win mod 70 and Savage 116 rifles and 3 different Garand M1s.

Getting the goop off is simple...I just toss the de-primed, resized brass into my tumbler and an hour later, they're all cleaned off. I use a small allen wrench through the flash hole to knock any cleaning media out during my final case prep and inspection.

Good luck.

FH
 
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