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Stuck Castle Nut on My AR-15

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by Ben86, Aug 2, 2012.

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  1. Ben86

    Ben86 Member

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    I have a Bushmaster AR carbine and I really want to put a single point sling attachment on it. I have a Tapco multi-tool to get the castle nut off, but it will not budge. I've tried dousing it with break-free before trying to move it without so much as 1mm of movement. I've put so much pressure when trying to turn it that I've damaged the thread on the buffer tube a little bit.

    Is there something missing? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
     
  2. JustinJ

    JustinJ Member

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    Is it staked? My Colt castlenut was hell to get off and i had to use a cheater bar. Some companies, such as DPMS, use locktite. Either way i would hit it real good with a heat gun and then try to take it off. If that won't work get a long pipe to use as a cheater bar.
     
  3. BrainOnSigs

    BrainOnSigs Member

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    Yep...had to do that with several of my ARs....
     
  4. TonyAngel

    TonyAngel Member

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    Yeah, Bushmaster, Rock River, DPMS, etc., tighten the heck out of those nuts. Heat and perhaps a cheater bar are the way to go. On a few rifles, I've had to destroy the nut to get it off.
     
  5. JustinJ

    JustinJ Member

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    A good practice is to wrap a couple of layers of painters tape around the buffer tube so that if you slip off the finish won't get dinged. Of course if you go crazy with the heat gun it will start smoking.
     
  6. sansone

    sansone Member

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    probably staked or loctited (or both) look closely for a dimple or stamped depression. Maybe use a dremel on the nut to relieve tension. Heat will loosen loctite. The nut is cheap so if you feel like something is going to break, let it be the nut only that needs replacing.
    Your nut could be steel or aluminum so use a magnet to determine
     
  7. kcshooter

    kcshooter Member

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    Yep. They can be a PITA.
    I've actually cut them off before, rather than risking damamge to the tube I just replaced the $5 nut.
     
  8. carbine85

    carbine85 Member

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    You need the correct vise block and the long handle tool. Correctly mounted in a vise makes it a lot easier.
     
  9. acmax95

    acmax95 Member

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    I put my lower in the freezer over night and, and the castle nut popped right off with very little pressure on the wrench.
     
  10. JustinJ

    JustinJ Member

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    Thats not a bad idea. Spraying a coolant through the buffer tube may work better and faster.
     
  11. Ben86

    Ben86 Member

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    I'm going to have to try that. The cold should make the metal contract, giving the nut more room to move. If that doesn't work I'll try the heat in case it's loctite. I also need to look more closely in case it's staked. I didn't even know they do that, that's pretty messed up.

    This Bushy has notoriously had parts that are supposed to be interchangeable but are a real bear to get off.

    I ought to try calling them and finding out what they do to these things to keep them from moving.

    Great ideas guys thanks.
     
  12. madcratebuilder

    madcratebuilder Member

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    Bushmaster did not stake the castle nut or use loc-tite. If you have this it's from a previous owner. Staking the castle nut is usgi spec.
     
  13. Mobuck

    Mobuck member

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    You do realize you can break the lower by putting too much leverage on the castlenut wrench if you're using a magwell insert to hold it??????????
     
  14. carbine85

    carbine85 Member

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    I'll say again, I highly recommend the correct tool(s) for the job. You need to secure it in a lower receiver vise block if it's that hard to get off.
     
  15. StrutStopper

    StrutStopper Member

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    Staking the castle nut shouldn't make it that difficult to remove. That is the proper way to ensure the nut doesn't back out and cause other types of grief (launching springs and detents...) Lock tite is a whole different story.
     
  16. Mr. Farknocker

    Mr. Farknocker Member

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    Consider that you are trying to turn the nut the wrong way before you try anything else.
     
  17. Quentin

    Quentin Member

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    Well in 2008 BM was using some kind of gunk on the threads. I helped a friend get the castle nut off his new BM and it was a bear. Not blue Loctite like RRA but still made for a rough time. That was when I said to myself I'd buy something better.
     
  18. JustinJ

    JustinJ Member

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    There is a product out there which basically clamps on the buffer tube to provide a single point sling attachment however you lose the ability to move the stock all the way down. Unless you shoot with body armor thats not really a big deal.

    I believe there is also a replacement pistol grip with single point sling attachment.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2012
  19. kingcheese

    kingcheese Member

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    Not an expert but you might try to get an impact effect going on, put the wrench on then try to break it free with a lot of force for a short period imagine your hitting it with s hammer
     
  20. WinThePennant

    WinThePennant Member

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    I'd just get a new lower and build it to the new specifications. It's very common to stake the castle nut when building an AR, and that's what it sounds like you've got. Or, someone used red loctite. If that's the case, then good luck.

    I take it that this is a collapsible length tube? If so, then it's almost certainly staked.
     
  21. awgrizzly

    awgrizzly Member

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    When you're finished with that lower I may be interested in buying the upper.
     
  22. ColdDayInHell

    ColdDayInHell Member

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    The freezer sounds like a great idea. I removed my S&W today and it was staked. It was a pain but I got it off. I love the Magpul CTR! Way better than the previous stock.
     
  23. kcshooter

    kcshooter Member

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    What? Was this sarcasm?
    If not, you're suggesting a whole new lower to be able to install a sling point??
     
  24. meanmrmustard

    meanmrmustard Member

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    What Smith you get?
     
  25. WinThePennant

    WinThePennant Member

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    If he's going to break or damage it, then YES.
     
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