Stupid reloading question of the week: trimming/loading mixed 5.56 and .223 brass?

[1KPerDay]

I don't load a lot of rifle purely because it's a PITA to prep the brass. And judging by my initial results apparently I suck at it. However, the current state of affairs and my club's new insistence on non-magnetic pills forces me to enter the .223 reloading arena.

Couple of questions; please be gentle.

1. I think I already know the answer, but do I REALLY need to trim .223 brass?
1a. if I have a wilson case gauge and a sized case doesn't protrude, is it vitally important that they all be trimmed to exactly the same length? For plinking/range/3-gun stuff? If you're not crimping, wouldn't the neck tension be close enough for jazz among the different case lengths? (told you they were stupid questions).

2. If I don't feel like sorting brass... can I load moderate 5.56 powder charges (based on military brass cases which I assume have less internal volume) in both 5.56 and .223 cases?
2a. If I need to sort 5.56, can I consider all 5.56 headstamps to be close enough for jazz? Remember I'm not benchrest shooting here.

Thanks

 

[matrem]

1. if it's over 1.760
1a. no, no crimp required, and yes
2. yes
2a. yes

 

[rcmodel]

1. If you don't intend to crimp, trimming is not necessary unless the cases are over 1.760" after sizing.

2. Yes.
Often, 5.56 GI brass isn't thicker then commercial .223 brass.
I have 1,000 or so commercial Remington .223 that has less capacity then a whole bunch of LC GI brass I also have.

Whats true about reduced capacity GI brass in 7.62 NATO and 30-06 isn't true in 5.56 NATO.

The only way to know is to size, trim, and weigh the cases from each headstamp, to see if they are heavier then those with another headstamp.

rc

 

[1KPerDay]

Thank you, gentlemen.

 

[1KPerDay]

One more: I've read that many people, when loading for the M1 Garand, size to the minimum mark on a Wilson gauge... should that also be my goal when loading .223 or is somewhere in the middle of the min/max okay? Loading for ARs, Mini-14 and SCAR 16.

 

[Walkalong]

I size .223 brass for autos to fit my Wislon case gauge. It runs 100% and I get good case life.

I am using a Possum Hollow trimmer in a lathe, and it is fast, so I don't waste time measuring each case, I just trim them all, then deburr and chamfer with the tool in the lathe. I just got a WFT for .300 Blackout and like it better than the PH, but it costs more. I would love a Giraud one of these days.

But as long as the case (After sizing), is not over 1.760, you don't have to trim them. Use a Lee collet crimp die (FCD) or a taper crimp die if you want to crimp. Neither is real picky about case length.

I record the brass weights for .223. When I come up with a load it is for that weight or lighter brass. If you are well under max it may not matter.

I just loaded 1K of 55 Gr plinkers about three months ago. That particular load with surplus SRB-118 is designed to be safe in the heaviest .223 brass.

 

[1KPerDay]

Thanks... do you size to the min headspace mark or somewhere in between the "steps"?

And I thought the FCD for rifles were all taper crimp dies?

 

[rcmodel]

Size to MAX headspace on a Wilson gage, or level with the gage, and it will be the same headspace as factory loaded ammo.

MIN on a Wilson gage is the absolute MIN that won't result in excess headspace and eventual case head seperations..

rc

 

[Walkalong]

And I thought the FCD for rifles were all taper crimp dies?

It is a collet style crimper. It pushes the case mouth in at 90 degrees. The collet squeezes around the case mouth, pushing it in towards the middle. Sort of like a taper crimp, but no angle.

 

[beatledog7]

Whenever I acquire .223 / 5.56 brass, I FL size it then trim it to 1.750. That way I know the mouths are squared to the bodies (unless they were already shorter than 1.750), and I also know I'll probably lose or split them before I'd have to trim them again. It's not needed for most cases, but it's my thing.

 

[1KPerDay]

Thanks again fellers.