Suggestions for AR configuration

[falconer]

I'm just starting an AR project. I'm putting an FFL and money order in the mail in the morning for my RRA stripped lower.

I've pretty much decided on buying a parts kit with an assembled upper for this one. I'm just not industrious enough to want to build an upper at this time.

The question is, what config should I build? I'm toying with the idea of a 20 in A3 upper with the normal front sight. I'll mostly use it for plinking/plate shoots, although the occasional coyote hunt might be a possiblity. I'm thinking A3, so I can swap optics to fit the task at hand. I'm also toying with the aluminum free float handguards.

Being a poor college kid, I'm looking at the cheaper red dot optics. Specifically, the kobra sight and the OKO sight.

My problem is I'm just too indecisive. I keep switching from 16in to 20 in, and various other options. Any suggestions for a good all around first AR?

 

[BryanP]

You're doing the same thing I am. I've got a stripped lower and a lower parts kit sitting on a shelf along with some 30rd AR mags. The buttstock kit is somewhere in the mail. Once I put all that together it's time to buy an upper - after reading up on it I've decided that building an upper is a bit more ambitious than I plan to get at this time.

Personally I'm going to buy an A2 style 20" upper, not the flattop. It's just a matter of personal preference. I figure I can always save and buy a 16" and/or flattop later if I reallly feel the need - although I'd be more likely to buy a .22lr upper. Especiallly if the 94 ban expires and they start making mags for the .22lr uppers with more than 10 round capacity.

Good luck in your project.

Bryan

 

[curt]

I think you're choice is pretty good. I personally prefer 16", but then again my ARs are mostly defensive carbines, one is a 20" HBAR set up for target shooting. I would suggest that you save the money for the FF HG and spend it on sights, ammo or optics, FF HGs don't make huge differences in accuracy and if you're on a budget their cost is not worth the slight improvement.

I wouldn't buy cheap reddots. If you're plinking irons work just fine, if your rifle does duty as a defensive weapon then you need to spend the money for an aimpoint.

 

[Atticus]

I've had four AR's. If I get another...it will be an A3 with a 16" barrel (no brake). I like iron sights and the low power 1-3X variable scopes. Since having LASIK, re dots look somthing like *.

 

[Coltdriver]

The balance on the 16" shorty is outstanding.

The difference in accuracy is very small.

I would recommend against the brake. It makes em noisy to you and offensive to someone next to you and it is of marginal use.

 

[444]

I now own 13 AR15s. I shoot one far more than the rest. And, it is the same one that I take to all the carbine classes I take. The reason is I think it is the best possible configuration (duh).
16" Flat Top, with a muzzle brake (Wilson Combat). Mine has a KAC RAS II, Aimpoint ML2 in an ARMS mount, and A1 stock, Daniel Defense sling attachment plate, Les Baer hard chromed extractor, Wolff extra power extractor spring, and a single attachment point tac sling (Wilderness). This carbine has been though numerous different configurations. After lots of rounds downrange and several classes this is what I arrived at as my perfect AR. I think you will also.
I wouldn't own an AR without a muzzle brake. I have replaced the flash suppressors on my pre-bans with muzzle brakes.

 

[Redlg155]

Seeing as you are bitten by the AR15 bug the 16" models make a lot of sense. They are a bit more handy and look a lot better if you decide to "accessorize" and believe me...you will! One look at the SIR or RIS and you will be hooked! If you prefer a slightly longer handguard, then a midlength version will also be a good choice.


Your best bet would be to visit a shop or freinds that have both types and see which one is more comfortable to you.

Good Shooting
Red

 

[falconer]

I've shot mostly 20 in ARs, but I have shot a 16. I'll probably end up having a scope to swap out with the red dot for varmit hunting. I've been trying to get out and do some coyote hunting when I get the chance, and I like popping ground hogs. Thats why I was thinking spending the extra $25 on the FF HG and getting the 20in barrel.

Would the velocity loss with the 16 inch barrel be a big deal for varmit shooting at 300+ yards?

I definately don't like muzzle breaks. In fact, I hate them so much, that I used to harass one of our moderators (Justin) about having one on his that he sent it off to John Holiger to get it chopped off. Of course, this doesn't prevent me from harassing him about buying an AR with a muzzle break to begin with.

 

[444]

The .223 or 5.56 NATO isn't a good choice for 300 + yard varmint hunting in any configuration.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Flat-top M-4 forgery. Cool, tactical and 4" is more wieldy.

 

[Jaywalker]

I set my sight system up this way, with a Rock River Tactical Carry Handle and an Aimpoint red dot. It isn't the cheapest approach, but I started with a blank sheet of paper and liked it better than anything else.

The Aimpoint Comp ML2 is the standard Army red dot sight, and is hell for sturdy. I has a new diode that yields a reputed 10,000 hour battery life!

The RRA handle puts the red dot at just the right level for mounting on its integrated picatinny rail. Finally, and best, I think, the iron sights may be used through the Aimpoint, even if the battery switch is off. It's the best of both worlds.

Jaywalker

 

[TechBrute]

For a post-ban configuration and my only AR, I'd choose the following initally:

16" barrel length: better balance, more untility
Crowned barrel: can't have a flash suppressor, the brakes are useless and loud, and the fake flash suppressors have to be welded on so you can't change out your gas block/ front sight easily, making upgrading the gas block or handguards later an expensive proposition.
A3/A4 upper: more versatility. You can buy a detachable carry handle, flip up sights, or go optics only

Later I'd upgrade the following:

Front Sight/Gas Block: upgrade to a picatinny gas block with a detachable/flip up front sight.

Handguard: I'd upgrade to one of the many freefloat handguards. Since I wouldn't have a welded on obstruction at the front of the barrel, the labor would be much cheaper. I like the handguards that have the rails, and although expensive, I can heartily recommend the ARMS SIR System.

Charging Handle: It's an inexpensive upgrade, but the $20 Badger Tactical Latch makes charging the gun a lot easier.

Grip: I like the Hogue

My favorite AR, and the one that gets all the goodies:

 

[TechBrute]

I have replaced the flash suppressors on my pre-bans with muzzle brakes.

Really? Which one do you like. I haven't liked any that I've had so far, except the Vias brake, which I haven't tried on an AR yet.

 

[falconer]

hmm

Ok, now I'm back to thinking about a 16 inch upper. I thought about getting the picatinny gas block, but I'd like the option of iron sights without the extra 60 or so for a front sight and 50 or so for a rear sight. I am a poor college student so I'm trying to keep my toy budget within reason.

decisions decisions decisions

 

[444]

"Really? Which one do you like....."
I like two. My main go-to AR has a muzzle brake by Wilson Combat. My back-up M4orgery has a KKF Tac Brake. Both make a significant difference in muzzle flip and muzzle flash. I am not the only one. One of my buddies tried my Wilson Combat brake and immediately ordered one for his pre-ban Colt CAR15. I make this challenge, go out and shoot some El Presidente's. Try to get under 10 seconds for all 12 shots plus the reload making ALL repeat ALL A-Zone hits from 25 yards. Do it first with a bare barrel, then with a good brake. Then come back and tell me it's useless. Sure, if you shoot the occasional beer can out on the back 40 you probably don't need it. That doesn't mean it is useless. Not convinced ? Go talk to the guys that shoot unlimited class IPSC. Next, go out at night and have one of your buddies fire a bare barrel AR. Stand to the side and look at the flash. Then fire a similar gun with a brake. Then tell me it is useless. I have been to three carbine classes that each had night shoots. During each night shoot the instructor stood in front of the class and fired each different brake, flash suppressor, and bare barrel so the students could see the difference. There is no comparison. The bare barrel has a fire ball that is like three feet long and two plus feet in diameter.

"Front Sight/Gas Block: upgrade to a picatinny gas block with a detachable/flip up front sight."
Why ? What are you going to put on it ? I have one on my .458 Socom upper, but don't see any point to it. I have a fold down front sight that is inferior to the issue front sight. I paid extra for the novelty and now regret it.

"I'd upgrade to one of the many freefloat handguards. Since I wouldn't have a welded on obstruction at the front of the barrel, the labor would be much cheaper. "
I got a better idea. If you want a freefloated barrel, and a picitanny rail system, go with what the military uses; the Knights Armament Corp. RAS. Mine is a RASII. Freefloated, goes on without removing the barrel. Labor cost was zero because you can easily put it on yourself. Muzzle brake isn't an issue.