Suggestions, please...loading bench refinish

[IWAC]

I recently installed a new top to my bench. It was one of the "prefinished" shelves from Home Depot that just fit the old bench top. I've noticed there is already some marring on the top. I'd like to refinish it with something tougher than the original color.
My givens...basement location, no ventilation, within 6 feet of furnace/air conditioner. I'd like to find something that is durable, dries fast, no toxic/flammable vapors and little to no smell, as my wife's quilting room is next door, and she has a nose like a bloodhound! Does such an animal exist? Suggestions, please!

 

[LiveLife]

Suggestions ... bench refinish

After using 6 and 8 foot benches in the garage for several years with unfinished plywood top which deteriorated over time, when I started building portable benches with 11 layer hardwood plywood for no flex bench top, I found 2 coats of polyurethane to be excellent hard finish that is waterproof and long lasting.

While these pictures are from when the bench was newly finished, after 10 years of hard use as my primary reloading bench, finish on the bench top was pristine before it was gifted to a retiring coworker who was going to start reloading with his son.

I thought about building another bench with the same polyurethane finish but cost of plywood went skyhigh and I decided to get the Husky height adjustable bench from Home Depot for new reloading setup for retirement - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-unlimited-budget.912629/page-3#post-12760055

The "semi" hardwood bench top is softer and will mar if too much pressure is applied to surface with finish that is thinner but for indoor use, it's been doing fine even through multiple gun cleaning sessions with spilt Hoppes #9 solvent and various oils.

 

[Frulk]

Resurface it with Formica. Pretty easy to do. Cut to size. Contact glue both bench and bottom of Formica. Set in place. Roll it down. Router or hand file edges to smooth.

 

[Bill M]

My brother in law just built a bench for his wife's jewelry making, covered it in thin sheetmetal, If I ever build another I'll use 1/4" plate!

 

[mm93]

My reloading bench has been in my gun room used for reloading and gunsmithing for over 40 years now! I got a formica simulated wood grain top for it back then and it still looks as good as the day I got it. The wood under the formica top is 1.25" plywood, and very strong. I have all my reloading gear, plus barrel vise, and a 6" regular vise bolted to it. It get tools tossed on it, stuff banged on it, and abused pretty much constantly.

 

[Otto]

^^ Yeah the Formica route is the way to go. It also adds a bit of strength to the substrate. A 4x8 sheet is $65 at HD. Colors and patterns are endless.

 

[GW Staar]

Yep, Home Depot Formica for 25 years on mine......only I added a stained hardwood edge to it......from the hardwood aisle.....

Looks the same today except for you can't see much of it from the clutter of 3 more presses, bench primer and 5 bullet/case collators.....not to mention never ending projects to clean up from.....BUT....simple to clean and it laughs at grease and spills.
I wish I would have made the front hardwood face 1/8" wider and raised it to have a slight lip......to stop cases and bullets and primers from rolling or getting pushed so easy off the edge........

Today.....the horrors of clutter from new projects......but it's funner than hell...

 

[9mmepiphany]

I keep adding and moving stuff on my bench, so I'm currently just painting the surface...easy filling and touchup

I have a couple of friends who went the Formica route who have been very happy. A couple more went Solid Surface; I think one went polymer and the other quartz...but that's spendy

I really like the idea of stainless steel. Most kitchen counter shops will cut, form, and drill it for you, but you need to have exact measurement for them

 

[GW Staar]

I keep adding and moving stuff on my bench, so I'm currently just painting the surface...easy filling and touchup

I have a couple of friends who went the Formica route who have been very happy. A couple more went Solid Surface; I think one went polymer and the other quartz...but that's spendy

I really like the idea of stainless steel. Most kitchen counter shops will cut, form, and drill it for you, but you need to have exact measurement for them

That's true....never ending change......so I picked a dark grey pattern where abandoned bolt holes can be plugged with dark grey epoxy putty.....not even noticeable. I suppose you can do the same thing with a stainless steel top, but not so easy to hide lighter surfaces or stained wood.

Painted surfaces don't stay nice for long......retouching is constant but only if you care about it always being immaculate. I probably wouldn't. You can see my pitiful bench before I redid the top.....just plywood 'stained' from being a motorcycle engine bench! (grease/oil, not wood stain).....until my wife shamed me into the remodel and formica top.. She said, "for heaven's sake, you are a building contractor!"

Before below:

 

[Blue68f100]

I covered mine with some hard masonite, screwed down. Then I sealed it with some waterproofing just encase some water got to it. This way I can change it when it gets bad. Being smooth it is easy to clean.

Working in a confided space the fumes of most contact cement and urethanes may drive you out of the room. They do make some water based adhesives but I don't know how well they hold.

Another option is an epoxy surface, more $$$. But once set it's very hard to damage.

 

[greyling22]

Learn to live with and love the wood? Nothing wrong with honest wear and tear.

 

[Show Me]

Resurface it with Formica. Pretty easy to do. Cut to size. Contact glue both bench and bottom of Formica. Set in place. Roll it down. Router or hand file edges to smooth.

Formica was a common handy project. But he has restrictions on smell. Limits crafty projects. One bench I used symon form ply . Industrial looking though. Surely there are more options.

 

[MikeInOr]

I recently installed a new top to my bench. It was one of the "prefinished" shelves from Home Depot that just fit the old bench top. I've noticed there is already some marring on the top. I'd like to refinish it with something tougher than the original color.
My givens...basement location, no ventilation, within 6 feet of furnace/air conditioner. I'd like to find something that is durable, dries fast, no toxic/flammable vapors and little to no smell, as my wife's quilting room is next door, and she has a nose like a bloodhound! Does such an animal exist? Suggestions, please!

Water based polyurethane is tough, dries fast and pretty low odor. It is what I would use.

Oil based polyurethane is softer, more flexible, takes a lot longer to dry but brings out the grain of wood better at the cost of a usually pretty heavy yellow tint. It will need ventilation while curing... not what you are looking for. (Spar varnish is an oil based polyurethane with UV inhibitors added for exterior use)

A 2 part epoxy will be tougher than water based poly but is harder to work with and has much more odor... needing ventilation when curing like oil based poly.

Lacquer puts off volatile fumes while curing and isn't all that tough but dries very fast. It is likely what the original wood was finished with. Also not what you are looking for.

Not all wood finishes are compatible with each other. So test any finish on a piece of off cut before applying it over the entire top.

Formica is a great option, tough and not too difficult to work with if you have some woodworking tools... like a saw and a router. I have only ever used solvent based contact cements with Formica which will definitely need ventilation while curing. There are water based contact cements but I have never used them so can't give any advice about them.

A piece of 1/8" or 1/4" hardboard (HDF) cut to size and screwed down to the top is another possibility that may be a good option for you. I have had good luck with gluing hardboard with PVA (water based) wood glue if you want to glue it down. Just make sure you apply the PVA glue to both surfaces as hardboard sucks up a lot of glue. PVA glue (Titebond, Elmer's wood glue, etc.) is low odor and should not need ventilation.

A piece of acrylic sheet (Plexiglass) is another option to consider.

You could also have a metal supplier cut a piece of stainless steel to fit but it would probably be kind of costly.

 

[gns4me]

Check out the Habitat resale stores in your area Used counter tops are cheap. Cut ,fit , and assemble as you want.

 

[hdwhit]

My (current) bench dates from 1978 and is topped with a 1/2 inch sheet of plywood coated with spar varnish. It still serves me well.

I built a similar bench in 1994 at my house in Texas, and it is still being used by my son.

 

[Show Me]

Water based polyurethane is tough, dries fast and pretty low odor. It is what I would use.

Oil based polyurethane is softer, more flexible, takes a lot longer to dry but brings out the grain of wood better at the cost of a usually pretty heavy yellow tint. It will need ventilation while curing... not what you are looking for. (Spar varnish is an oil based polyurethane with UV inhibitors added for exterior use)

A 2 part epoxy will be tougher than water based poly but is harder to work with and has much more odor... needing ventilation when curing like oil based poly.

Lacquer puts off volatile fumes while curing and isn't all that tough but dries very fast. It is likely what the original wood was finished with. Also not what you are looking for.

Not all wood finishes are compatible with each other. So test any finish on a piece of off cut before applying it over the entire top.

Formica is a great option, tough and not too difficult to work with if you have some woodworking tools... like a saw and a router. I have only ever used solvent based contact cements with Formica which will definitely need ventilation while curing. There are water based contact cements but I have never used them so can't give any advice about them.

A piece of 1/8" or 1/4" hardboard (HDF) cut to size and screwed down to the top is another possibility that may be a good option for you. I have had good luck with gluing hardboard with PVA (water based) wood glue if you want to glue it down. Just make sure you apply the PVA glue to both surfaces as hardboard sucks up a lot of glue. PVA glue (Titebond, Elmer's wood glue, etc.) is low odor and should not need ventilation.

A piece of acrylic sheet (Plexiglass) is another option to consider.

You could also have a metal supplier cut a piece of stainless steel to fit but it would probably be kind of costly.

Water base glue is worth a test. Masonite hard board is pretty tough. Tough enough for concrete curved forms.

 

[GW Staar]

Formica was a common handy project. But he has restrictions on smell. Limits crafty projects. One bench I used symon form ply . Industrial looking though. Surely there are more options.

The contact adhesive has a smell all right.....but pretty mild now days, and lasts until it is dry.....maybe 3 whole hours.....not like the old 1970's formaldehyde-based product, today's is water-based. You spread it with a notched trowel on both the Formica top and the bench surface, let it dry to the touch, a few minutes, place small wood 1/4" dowels front to back every foot or so while you're waiting for it to dry to the touch, then place the top where you want it.

So, then once in place where you want it on the standoffs, starting in the middle, pull a dowel out, press down, pull the next one press down, then the next on the opposite side press down....continue until it's stuck down. Then using a rubber roller, roll it tight together everywhere and it's done. Then trim the edges flush with a very course file, and/or a router, finally nail on the hardwood face. Obviously you need the standoffs, because when contact cement touches it is stuck.....instantly.....but that also means it's ready to use too. No long waits to dry or put up with a smelly room.

 

[Show Me]

The contact adhesive has a smell all right.....but pretty mild now days, and lasts until it is dry.....maybe 3 whole hours.....not like the old 1970's formaldehyde-based product, today's is water-based. You spread it with a notched trowel on both the Formica top and the bench surface, let it dry to the touch, a few minutes, place small wood 1/4" dowels front to back every foot or so while you're waiting for it to dry to the touch, then place the top where you want it.

So, then once in place where you want it on the standoffs, starting in the middle, pull a dowel out, press down, pull the next one press down, then the next on the opposite side press down....continue until it's stuck down. Then using a rubber roller, roll it tight together everywhere and it's done. Then trim the edges flush with a very course file, and/or a router, finally nail on the hardwood face. Obviously you need the standoffs, because when contact cement touches it is stuck.....instantly.....but that also means it's ready to use too. No long waits to dry or put up with a smelly room.

Good decreption . My experience came from building plan tables it the office in the mid 90's . Smelly glue. But heck now days they have floor sealer that smells like cookies baking for mall concrete floors. Water base glue and Formica would be my personal favorite. You know the kind that looks wood strips. Good info

 

[9mmepiphany]

If you're open to recycling, I saw a great bench a while back where the reloader used a counter top from a high school chemistry/biology/physics lab table. They were redoing the lab and were throwing away the lab tables

 

[Show Me]

If you're open to recycling, I saw a great bench a while back where the reloader used a counter top from a high school chemistry/biology/physics lab table. They were redoing the lab and were throwing away the lab tables

Oh, how about a poured in place concrete counter top with slick ground finish. Then when you got it move on to the kitchen. Young and modern look.

 

[Kaldor]

Another vote for laminate/formica top

Too bad my bench will never be this clean again!

 

[9mmepiphany]

how about a poured in place concrete counter top with slick ground finish

While concrete looks and works great in a kitchen, it isn't great as a bench top for reloading.

It doesn't do well when drilled or in-letted . It also isn't stable as it cracks and chips under pressure...but the patina can be very beautiful

 

[Mostly Lead]

I recently installed a new top to my bench. It was one of the "prefinished" shelves from Home Depot that just fit the old bench top. I've noticed there is already some marring on the top. I'd like to refinish it with something tougher than the original color.
My givens...basement location, no ventilation, within 6 feet of furnace/air conditioner. I'd like to find something that is durable, dries fast, no toxic/flammable vapors and little to no smell, as my wife's quilting room is next door, and she has a nose like a bloodhound! Does such an animal exist? Suggestions, please!

Have heard the VOCs are pretty low with Polycrylic... My father-in-law just used it to refinish three walls of real wood paneling in his living room. Said the smell wasn't bad at all. Have not used it myself and don't have any real sensitivities to paint or finish smells either.

I've been applying gallons of lacquer to projects this last year next to the furnace/air conditioner in my garage (with the door open or using a proper VOC filtered mask). But my HVAC is a closed system in the garage, no odors being pulled in or spread through the house. Suspect your air intake for your HVAC system is probably in the house (like mine is) and not in the basement itself.

 

[Show Me]

While concrete looks and works great in a kitchen, it isn't great as a bench top for reloading.

It doesn't do well when drilled or in-letted . It also isn't stable as it cracks and chips under pressure...but the patina can be very beautiful

Stupid idea right. Well ply wood or Formica get my meaningless vote. I have a small Formica tall bench with bar stool for gun cleaning and smithing. A bench with a 3/4 in ply form top and an old very heavy very big office desk for reloading presses and a few powder measures. An office chair gets me around three sides. For reloading projects , reading and napping. PS. Coffee cups don't bounce off granite or concrete like our Formica counter tops. Have a good Saturday morning

 

[westernrover]

I like the foam floor. I have a few of those foam tiles, but what I used for the floor around the reloading area are those thick rubber horse stall mats from the feed store. If I drop a die or my calipers, it's better than the hard concrete. I even put one on the top of the desk. So that's my suggestion.

My reloading desk has a top. I'm not sure if it's melamine or formica. It's fake wood grain on top of sheet steel.

This isn't my desk, but it's just like it. It's a Steelcase Tanker desk. I put the horse stall mat on top. It works great. Nothing slides and even cases don't roll far.

I don't have my press mounted on it. My presses are on floor stands, not a bench. I never liked the idea of trying to build a benchtop to withstand the torque of a press. I mount them on a heavy steel column bolted to the floor and a steel tripod stand.

I don't use the rubber top for cleaning. I clean my handguns in a polymer cart:

The brass tumblers are in the bottom.

The reason I mention this is because I doubt the rubber mats are as chemical resistant as formica or melamine. I use the solvents in that cart.