Super Redhawk Alaskan .454 Casull among other things...

[murf]

one more thing regarding the loads: the cases need to be the same length, or real close to it so the crimp will be the same, so the c.o.l. will be the same.

murf

 

[MCMXI]

murf, thanks for the reminder re case length. I adjusted the sights on the Redhawk the other day so this afternoon shot six more of the 360gr load to see if the sight adjustment helped in addition to getting a bit more practice. I shot all double action from 15 yards at a rate of about one round per second so I'm moving in the right direction. I'm loving this Redhawk.

 

[murf]

six is all i can handle anymore, in that blackhawk, before my wrist goes numb. glad you like the big push of that gun.

luck,

murf

 

[steve8261948]

In .454 I bought their Toklat. Haven't shot it much too many others take up my time on the range.
Steve

 

[MCMXI]

I just ordered 200 of those 345gr WLN-GC bullets from Beartooth Bullets this morning since the 340gr WFN-GC bullet from MBW won't fit in the Redhawk due to throat interference with the ogive! You can see the contact ring around the bullet that I marked in the photo below.

Ordered July 7th and delivered today October 13th so that's just over three months for the Beartooth bullets. The bullets don't look any worse or any better than the Montana Bullet Company 340gr variants but the ogive should allow them to work better in the Redhawk. My favorite bullets are still the Oregon Trail 360gr Trueshot which only cost $0.08 more per bullet and arrive within a few days of ordering.

 

[CraigC]

FWIW, in my experience Beartooth's bullets are harder and tougher than O/T.

 

[wildcatter109]

I had trouble with the FA 83 6" jumping crimp after 4 shots, but that short cylinder and lighter gun with to tight a tolerance fer this Bear Protection purpose,, in my opinion before I'm blasted. I did two things and eliminated it when using HOT 340 grain loads.
1st thing I did was turned the inside sizer button down on my RCBS dies.
2nd I then I ordered a Profile Crimp die.
3rd I then called Dan at Mountain Molds and used his software to build my own 340, with a WFN design, and an extra deep crimp groove. This bullet I also designed to barely clear the cylinder face on my Super Blackhawk, bisely hunter. Now from the looks of the crimp groove on the O/T 340's you showed I may not of needed to, but I enjoy casting my own, and I know I have as much powder room in my case as I can get using a boolit that will still fit in my Blackhawk in 45 colt.

Now I am glad I read this, as I am about to get a new 454 Alaskan. I thought about the Toklat with it's 5" barrel, as hideous as it looks with the flattend barrel look. But as was mentioned,, my intention is not just critter defense, but human defense as well. So the much faster, and easier, yet not rely easy to carry concealed, thank God I'm a big guy, the Alaskan is the only option.I will be using the MIHEC 270 grn SWC HP that I cast from pure lead with a tad of tin in it. in a 2.5 inch Bond Arms derringer with 6.0 grn red dot it only shot 650 fps but did this when recovered. I will have to bump that load in the Alaskan to get the same velocity and want 700 fps. But this is the results I want from it.


But this thread answers my question, the 454 loads will be capable of giving me the 1200 fps with the custom 340 I hard cast for serious dangerous game protection. and with my modified crimping actions should make it reliable.


I am taking the chance and not going with the even larger Toklat. Only time I will use it for dangerous situations is when I visit a buddy in north west Colorado, and make ky wilderness trips to the North of Michigan, an do a little hiking and hunting. When using it around home in the woods and hunting using it as my CCW and relying on it, any of my 45 colt loads should be all I need. This makes the Alaskan the better choice for me, and as others,, not just the grip on the Redhawk, but when it comes to the action, I prefer the Super also.

 

[MCMXI]

wildcatter109, great job on your custom 340gr hardcast bullet. I've never tried casting my own but it seems like a good solution for bullet jump. I just got back from an 8 mile 4 hour hike behind my house scouting for elk and deer and carried the Redhawk with 360gr OT handloads in the Simply Rugged holster described earlier. I have to say that my left shoulder feels a bit sore from the weight of the Redhawk and 12 rounds of 360gr ammo. Too bad they don't make a rig that puts the load on both shoulders.

The Alaskan is a great revolver and I have no intention of parting with mine but the Redhawk meets my needs a little better at this time.

FWIW, in my experience Beartooth's bullets are harder and tougher than

But if the OT bullets are hard enough and tough enough then that's all that matters. I don't know if they are but I would be interested in conducting some appropriate testing if you have any suggestions.​

 

[CraigC]

True but I don't know how they perform on game. I was just a little put off when they deformed in SIMTEST, whereas the Beartooth and CPBC bullets were unscathed. I know how those do on big critters.

 

[steve8261948]

To be honest I have no experience with the Alaskan but, do own a Toklat in this caliber. Also own another SRH in .480 that I've considered shortening the barrel to 5". I've already contacted smiths who do this work. As far as bullets go for thjis caliber I would opt for hard cast over jacketed any day. IMHO.
Steve

 

[steve8261948]

Honestly I have no experience with the Alaskans but, do own a Toklat in this caliber and would opt for hard cast any day! IMHO.
Steve

 

[steve8261948]

Please delete double post.
Steve

 

[Tradmark]

For bear defense i would use the 325gr aframe. Closely followed by punch or monometal solids. The barnes are excellent and do more damage than any other bullet. Just need to go faster than u will get out of an alaskan for the penetration id want on a brownie. Xtp's are right out for that use.

 

[Wixaw4me69]

Mostly for FYI as it may come of use to those that either do not reload or feel a bit more comfortable using factory ammo when you are off fishing and you have to use your defense revolver. I will, when I find the time, reload for the 454 Alaskan and my Custom Ruger 6.5” Bisley in 454 to get the most out of it for hunting. I live in the lower states, near Yellowstone and the bears are a bit smaller, so I am opting for the 300 gr bullets (copper hollow points). The below is info for your lunch....

1) Swift - 300 gr. A-Frame Factory Load out of the 454 Alaskan (2 5/8”) -1370 FPS (this is the Swift High Grade Factory Ammo)
2) Federal - 300 gr A-Frame Factory Load out of the 454 Alaskan (2 5/8”) - 1365 FPS (yep, same as the Swift high grade factory ammo, which claims more velocity than Federal and also costs a WHOLE lot more).
3) Hornady - 300 gr XTP Factory Load out of the 454 Alaskan (2 5/8”) - 1360 FPS (again, same ball park as the other more costly 2 listed above)
4) Hornady - 240 gr XTP Factory Load out of the 454 Alaskan (2 5/8”) - 1503 FPS

This was all done at 9000 ft elevation, 40 deg F, average of 3 shots. Understanding that the Swift A-Frame is a strong and respected bullet, it would likely get the duty in the bush near ol’griz country fishing. Another bit of info, these are all not a lot of fun to shoot, the 240 being the most manageable, but well in the area of doable if and when you would need to roll off 6 rounds to slow down your maker.

Just FYI has when I was trying to decide on what type of bear medicine for the Alaskan, I couldn’t find this information.....so here you go.....

 

[Wixaw4me69]

For bear defense i would use the 325gr aframe. Closely followed by punch or monometal solids. The barnes are excellent and do more damage than any other bullet. Just need to go faster than u will get out of an alaskan for the penetration id want on a brownie. Xtp's are right out for that use.

Would agree with you TRADMARK, the 325 A-FRAME would be a true show stopper for bears, I only wish that SWIFT would provide a Factory load in that bullet vs the 300 gr. A-FRAME. I have contemplated reloading the 325 gr, but really do figure on factory loads for bear defense.

 

[CraigC]

Why would anyone be more comfortable with factory loads than their own handloads? Factory ammo can have all manner of unforeseen issues that can be nearly completely eliminated with handloads. Only thing you can't avoid is a bad primer.

 

[Wixaw4me69]

Craig,

Definitely open for encouragement to use and would likely go for handloads as there are advantages in working up what is best for that specific round in that specific gun. I have loaded multiple thousands of rounds (use to be an avid prairie dogger plus I reload for several challenging wildcats in pistols and more recently in rifles. More of the issue now days is time on the bench and at the range as I work abroad 90% of the year. But thinking back, I have had a few primer function problems and they are mostly on the more difficult case formed wildcats like the Herrets in a contender (small shoulders I think was the issue). But reloading for standard rounds, probably have had less than a hand full of issues with primers. Maybe it would help to understand that I also am working on old stocks, including primers and powder, however working fine so far after getting back into this hobby, gaining a bit of comfort in the aging issues (17 years in storage). The last bit, also tying back to time, the crimp jumping on the 454, when you most need it, worries me on reloads. Again, understand that this can be handled well with reloads, I do have a Lee Crimp die.

I guess to sum it up....mostly due to time...I select factory ammo for self defense. I had really hoped that the Swift High Grade Ammo would have shined a bit more over the more logically costed Hornady XTP loads, but in the velocity department it was virtually the same on the 2 and 5/8 inch barreled alaskan. I did not have time to run it through my magnaported Ruger Bisley (6.5 inch) unfortunately. Maybe it will show a bit more gain over the Hornady velocities. The bonus with the Swift is the A-Frame and the fact that the cartridges are said to be sealed and nearly water proof (any plus in my book) as I tend to get things wet on fishing trips.

 

[CraigC]

I can relate to the time and availability aspect. I worked 7 days a week from 2005 to last year and have had to budget my time carefully. Handloading for me has always been a necessary chore to do the amount of shooting I wanted to do, not something I've done for fun. While many only factor the monetary cost into their reloading, I have to factor in my time too. Which is why I don't load 9mm, 380, .45ACP, .223, etc..Wouldn't even consider casting bullets. Sometimes you have more time than money and sometimes it's the other way around. For me, buying that ammo and commercial cast bullets is like buying time. Time to do things more enjoyable and important than sitting at the loading bench or over a hot lead pot. I think about it like this, if I were on my death bed tomorrow, would I be wishing for more time with my wife, my family & friends, more time to hunt, fish & shoot or would I be wishing I could load another 1000rds or cast another 1000 bullets? I know the answer without spending all day thinking about it.

 

[Wixaw4me69]

CragC, sounds like we are on the same work path dedication, short of workaholic. At nearly 50, am ready to sit it out and I hope to spend some of the 1000s of bullets and lbs of powder I have aquired. It might be that I donate it to those younger fellas that have the time and energy to blow on those endless hours on a bench (which i use to do). But yeah, with only a few weeks a year at home, year after year, I reload for those which I need to/have to reload and buy the best option possible for the purpose in factory ammo. These days, factory ammo is getting pretty good. It will buy me time, to cast a fly across the plateau lakes of northern Wyoming, yet sleep in comfort in a tent with the overrun bear population knowing at least the alaskan will make a loud enough bang to deafen me as it devours my leg. When it matters and I owe it to the receiving end to make it swift and lethal, I reload. Eg. The 220 AI and 6x284 get a lot of attention, the various contender and SSK barrels get the same, mainly because it’s the only way to shoot. But the various ARs and sport rifles/handguns get fed a sole diet of factory ammo. Guess I need to pass on the tradition to a grandson / daughter to work this stuff up for me now...hahahaha. Cheers.

 

[Tradmark]

Fyi, testing on waterbuff. My 325 aframes out if a 4 5/8” fa at 1550fps penetrated as deep as the 300gr aframe at 1980fps out if a 460sw. Very very good penetration out of the 325’s.

 

[Wixaw4me69]

TRADMARK, that’s pretty stout, the 300s are pretty snappy out of the alaskan, I bet that 325 at 1550fps would be a bit more than snappy. One good solid hit would probably be a real good choice on the ol’griz. I suppose I will have to look at reloading this up. Are you using H110?

 

[Tradmark]

Yessir. 28.4gr. Max load of 28.7gr is max and is wicked. Out of my fa7.5” its near 1700fps. One shot on a cape buff. Full penetration at around 40 yards. Down pretty quick and massive damage. If a cape buff will handily drop a grizz will be done in short order. Self
Loading is easy but worth it and imho theres not a better dg bullet from a revolver on earth at this time. Expands to about seventy caliber. Is structurally sound thru the heaviest bone and penetrates within inches of the best solids. Whats not to love. Well worth loading.

 

[Wixaw4me69]

I like that idea a lot. I am more of a jacked bullet guy anyways as long as it is bonded, maybe it would be different if I was tromping through the alaskan woods, but the yogi bears of Yellowstone are a bit smaller and likely that much easier to dispatch.....nothing like a Cape buffalo. Appreciate the info on the H110, work up gingerly. Cheers.

 

[Tradmark]

Good luck to you! A good starting place is 28.1 grains. All loads listed above will handily eject from a srh with rougher chambers than a fa or bfr’s polished chambers. A good sign theres no pressure issues but i start 28.1 and its a policy that has served me well. Lee factory crimp after sizing with an rcbs sizer die which provides a little more case tension to hold the bullets under recoil. When crimped properly to where the lee die crimps and flattens the brass throughout the whole crimp groove really helps. I have no bullet pull issues this way. Hope this helps ya a little to get started. Once again good luck and look forward to pics of your successes.